avimore Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Hi, wondering if it's best to dry the excess water with the Sidekick before applying G&G, or should I first apply G&G and then dry the excess water? Also, do you apply G&G to the door jambs? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 sahls01gmc Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 The H20 G&G is water activated, so you will need the water on the car to help apply it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 avimore Posted August 8, 2016 Author Share Posted August 8, 2016 Just to clarify, I didn't mean that I wanted to dry the whole car with the Sidekick first, just the excess water that pools in the side mirrors/cracks/wheels etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Dwhite0960 Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 I would apply then do final dry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 butters Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 I also would do the G&G then blow out the cracks etc and clean up with detail spray. Mainly because I believe there to be an element of risk as far as the dirt in the cracks that blows out with the water. I wouldn't want to spread that with the G&G and then buff some swirls right into the finish. Going back with DS gives a little protection (spritz with waterless wash would probably be ideal for handling the blown out water). avimore, Mariner and TheWolf 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 TheWolf Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 ^this. Blow out the cracks after applying HGG. H20burycharger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 gabhart Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 I also would do the G&G then blow out the cracks etc and clean up with detail spray. Mainly because I believe there to be an element of risk as far as the dirt in the cracks that blows out with the water. I wouldn't want to spread that with the G&G and then buff some swirls right into the finish. Going back with DS gives a little protection (spritz with waterless wash would probably be ideal for handling the blown out water). Never thought of residual dirt coming from blowing out the cracks, mirrors etc. Great advice! I'll be changing my process for sure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 avimore Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 Thanks for the great info! The residual dirt being blown out of the cracks definitely makes sense. Although if it makes sense for the H2O drying method, I'm assuming it should also apply to the Detail Spray drying method? I just finished watching a video on the Adam's website called 'Safe Drying' where Adam dries a Yukon and calls it a 'between details' dry using Detail Spray and a Great White drying towel. After a wash, he sprays DS all over the vehicle and then uses the Master Blaster to remove all the excess water out of the mirrors, cracks etc. After drying with the MB he dries the entire vehicle with the GW drying towel. Guess the Adams team doesn't think residual dirt being blown out is much of an issue? Would be great to get some input from the guys at Adams on this. Tyler@Adams 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Tyler@Adams Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Ed, The "between details" drying method is just a fast way to dry your car off effectively. Detail spraying the whole vehicle adds lubrication so when you go to wipe it off, there is detail on the vehicle already so you won't scratch it as much as you would without the detail spray. If you want to use H2O as your drying method then I would do that. In fact, here is how I dry my BLACK car off all the time. Once I'm done washing, I will H2O the whole vehicle and then I would take my sidekick and blow all the cracks and possible dirt could come out, on a black car you can't see the dirt very well so I would take precaution in wiping off the rest of the vehicle after this point. I now spray one panel with detail spray and wipe it off in the same direction, from left to right, with one side. Then, I flip the towel over and wipe off any detail spray that I missed. This method I have found is the safest method I have used drying and trust me, I know when my car gets scratched and I haven't had problems in months with this method so give it a shot and let me know how that works for you! avimore and wely324 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 wely324 Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 I actually prefer drying with h2o over just detail spray, I have found it to be less prone to scratching than just detail spray on my black car that has a glass coating as well. Towel drying even with detail spray you had to be so careful. The h2o GG buffs so nicely, and then when you air dry the nooks and crannies of the car, the water wipes up so easy with a GWDT. Firebuff17 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 butters Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 (edited) Thanks for the great info! The residual dirt being blown out of the cracks definitely makes sense. Although if it makes sense for the H2O drying method, I'm assuming it should also apply to the Detail Spray drying method? I just finished watching a video on the Adam's website called 'Safe Drying' where Adam dries a Yukon and calls it a 'between details' dry using Detail Spray and a Great White drying towel. After a wash, he sprays DS all over the vehicle and then uses the Master Blaster to remove all the excess water out of the mirrors, cracks etc. After drying with the MB he dries the entire vehicle with the GW drying towel. Guess the Adams team doesn't think residual dirt being blown out is much of an issue? Would be great to get some input from the guys at Adams on this. Good point. In my mind, the detail spray has an element of dirt-encapsulation / lubrication that reduces the risk of scratches due to residual dirt. The G&G is an acrylic-type product (if I recall correctly) so it doesn't have that same type of protection while you are spreading it over the paint. Thinking of it another way, you could wipe a slightly dusty car down with detail spray, but you really wouldn't apply wax or liquid paint sealant to a slightly dusty car. Edited August 9, 2016 by butters Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 wely324 Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 (edited) Good point. In my mind, the detail spray has an element of dirt-encapsulation / lubrication that reduces the risk of scratches due to residual dirt. The G&G is an acrylic-type product (if I recall correctly) so it doesn't have that same type of protection while you are spreading it over the paint. Thinking of it another way, you could wipe a slightly dusty car down with detail spray, but you really wouldn't apply wax or liquid paint sealant to a slightly dusty car. that is a good point about detail spray encapsulating dirt. My thinking is that when drying the car, it should be clean of dirt and the H2OGG provides less resistance against the towel compared to detail spray imo. Seems like h2ogg followed by detail spray may be the way to go! Edited August 10, 2016 by wely324 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 avimore Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 Ed, The "between details" drying method is just a fast way to dry your car off effectively. Detail spraying the whole vehicle adds lubrication so when you go to wipe it off, there is detail on the vehicle already so you won't scratch it as much as you would without the detail spray. If you want to use H2O as your drying method then I would do that. In fact, here is how I dry my BLACK car off all the time. Once I'm done washing, I will H2O the whole vehicle and then I would take my sidekick and blow all the cracks and possible dirt could come out, on a black car you can't see the dirt very well so I would take precaution in wiping off the rest of the vehicle after this point. I now spray one panel with detail spray and wipe it off in the same direction, from left to right, with one side. Then, I flip the towel over and wipe off any detail spray that I missed. This method I have found is the safest method I have used drying and trust me, I know when my car gets scratched and I haven't had problems in months with this method so give it a shot and let me know how that works for you! Thanks Tyler and everyone else for the responses. Really good information for something that can be easily overlooked. Tyler@Adams 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Question
avimore
Hi, wondering if it's best to dry the excess water with the Sidekick before applying G&G, or should I first apply G&G and then dry the excess water?
Also, do you apply G&G to the door jambs?
Thanks.
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