Safest way to remove etching from bird poo

[hemi1300]

Finally gonna tackle the etch Mark in the center of the hood on my 14 ram laramie today. Bought the truck used a few months ago and tried the rupes 15 and mini on it, made it slightly less visible but still there. 2 options I have left is wet sanding or cordless drill with a polishing pad. Which would be the safest way to correct it? I get nervous about going through the clear. Last attempt with the mini, felt the paint after numerous passes and it was quite warm to the touch. May try some 3k wet sanding, but still a bit nervous, but the poo stain has to go!

[chops1sc]

What polish/pad did you use?

[shane@detailedreflections]

I'd try polishing pad and a drill first. Least aggressive to most aggressive. Wet sanding is a pretty aggressive move.

 

You can even try the new heavy correcting compound. A bit more cutting power to get through it possibly? I haven't used the new compound yet but I have some on the way for vehicles with a bit more damage. I'm guessing it's going to work well.

[hemi1300]

Have tried both the rupes mini and rupes 15 Mark 2 with microfiber cutting pads and correcting Polish. While it did improve a decent amount, still can't get it perfect after multiple passes. Was thinking about the new Adam's heavy correcting Polish, wondering if this would take care of it.

[hemi1300]

Here are a few pics, probably had to see though.

[PostalTwo]

I would just wet sand it and be done . No matter the method your gonna remove some clear coat.

[PHOKUS]

I would just wet sand it and be done . No matter the method your gonna remove some clear coat.

 

Trevor's correct. Wetsanding is the best option based on that photo. If the Rupes didn't take it out, you'll have to get super aggressive with a drill and you'll build up a lot of heat in the process. Just wetsand with 2000 until the mark disappears, move to 3000 until the marks from the 2000 disappear, then polish. Whole thing might take 10 minutes.

[ocdrifter]

I would personally not do either, those markings look like bird droppings that have already damaged the clear coat finish. In my professional opinion why would you want to thin out a area that has already lost its clear coat?

 

Good luck with what ever option you decid on.

[PostalTwo]

Depends how deep the etching is,it might not be that deep . It doesn't look like he has lost his clear coat to me ,just a bird etching . Once he starts sanding he will be able to see how deep it really is. If it's pitted sure he won't be able to save it and should stop. But suggesting he not try because it will thin his clear coat is like suggesting he not remove swirls because it thins his clear . All polishing removes a little clear.

[PHOKUS]

I would personally not do either, those markings look like bird droppings that have already damaged the clear coat finish. In my professional opinion why would you want to thin out a area that has already lost its clear coat?

 

Good luck with what ever option you decid on.

 

Most factory clearcoats are between 15 and 25 microns. Bird poo etching typically goes no deeper than 1-5 microns. At worst OP is likely looking at 8-10 microns of clear left even if he over sands a little.

[LT1xL82]

... Bird poo etching typically goes no deeper than 1-5 microns. ...

I'm not at all sure I want to know how this was determined. 

[PostalTwo]

Prob using a paint depth guage .

[hemi1300]

Think I will just leave the truck alone. Etch Mark was very noticeable when I first got the truck, but after running the polishers over it a handful of times it's barely noticeable. Can see it while parked in the garage and my high intensity fluorescent lights are on, but with the truck outside in the sun it's very hard to see. Rather be safe than sorry and live with it before I get too carried away and go through the clear

[PHOKUS]

Think I will just leave the truck alone. Etch Mark was very noticeable when I first got the truck, but after running the polishers over it a handful of times it's barely noticeable. Can see it while parked in the garage and my high intensity fluorescent lights are on, but with the truck outside in the sun it's very hard to see. Rather be safe than sorry and live with it before I get too carried away and go through the clear

 

I really think you'd be okay. But I totally understand where you're coming from.

 

One other option you could try is Adams Heavy Correcting Compound. I have yet to try this particular version, but it might just do the trick.

[Jason S.]

What Phokus said^^^. But I might try 2500, then 3000. If 2500 doesn't get it, then 2000. It sounds a lot scarier than it really is. Just don't go totally crazy with it. Do just enough. The machine will take out about anything 2500 and up. Good luck.

[Jason S.]

Hemi, I had the same problem. Here are some of my pics.

Here's the etch.

1st stage wetsand with 3000 wasn't enough.

2nd stage wet sand with 2500 then 3000.

Polished with PCP and microfiber pad.

Then sealed with LPS. rained just after. Haha! Water bead shot.

[PostalTwo]

Hemi, I had the same problem. Here are some of my pics.

Here's the etch.

IMG_0822.JPG

1st stage wetsand with 3000 wasn't enough.

IMG_0823.JPG

2nd stage wet sand with 2500 then 3000.

IMG_0824.JPG

Polished with PCP and microfiber pad.

IMG_0825.JPG

Then sealed with LPS. rained just after. Haha! Water bead shot.

IMG_0826.JPG

That's a great post to help Derek visualize the process. Good job btw it looks fantastic:)

[hemi1300]

Thanks for the pics, turned out great. If I get around to it this weekend, gonna pick up some 3k paper and attempt wet sanding. Gonna go very lightly at first, enough to slightly haze the paint, then hit it with the rupes to see if any improvement has been made

[PostalTwo]

Thanks for the pics, turned out great. If I get around to it this weekend, gonna pick up some 3k paper and attempt wet sanding. Gonna go very lightly at first, enough to slightly haze the paint, then hit it with the rupes to see if any improvement has been made

Awesome. Don't be shy with the water

[hemi1300]

Awesome. Don't be shy with the water

Couldn't I use detail spray or waterless in place of water?

[PostalTwo]

Couldn't I use detail spray or waterless in place of water?

dunno I allways just use water. Detail spray is some expensive water lol. The water is not for lubrication it's to wash away the spent clear and anything in the paint sanded off Edited November 30, 2016 by PostalTwo

[dancingdan42]

I know I'm going to sound stupid, but do you hand sand or machine sand?

[PostalTwo]

For an etching like Derek has . Just by hand . Soak the paper and use a spray bottle of water

[dancingdan42]

For an etching like Derek has . Just by hand . Soak the paper and use a spray bottle of water

 

Thank you very much.  I love how understanding this community is toward people who are just starting out.  You guys rock!

[Jason S.]

Couldn't I use detail spray or waterless in place of water?

There's really no need to use those products. It would just be a waste. Water is totally fine. I soaked my sandpaper in a large cup of water for 15 minutes or so and continued to keep the working area saturated while sanding.