Inquiry on layering Revive Hand Polish, H2O Guard and Gloss, and Buttery Wax

[DaFunkyFish]

All:

 

I am curious to know if the below can be layered after a strip wash, clay bar, decon:

 

Revive Hand Polish

H2O Guard and Gloss

Buttery Wax

 

I was wondering if this was good plan since I should be able to do this all by hand before steeping it up to a DA and applying liquid paint sealant. I think it’d be good for me to learn this way over the warmer months and maybe get a good winter seal up going when I learn more about DA’s.

[Raige93]

If you're going to go through the trouble of a thorough decontamination, I would skip the H2O and apply paint sealant by hand if you don't have a DA. Even if you do have a DA I'd still do it by hand, I have always applied LPS by hand and it has been trouble free. Hope this helps!

[DaFunkyFish]

@Raige93 thanks for the input. I do have LPS as well. For some reason I am a littler nervous about applying that by hand, or more so, removing it if I use too much etc. 

[Raige93]

As long as it's not heavy it's not difficult to remove at all. Even if it is applied heavy it still doesn't fight you too much. Just have some good microfibers on hand for buffing and you'll be fine, at least that's been my experience. Especially if you're topping it with Buttery, you'll be buffing the entire car again anyways

[DaFunkyFish]

@Raige93 thank you for your timely responses. I do have the LPS and I have Eagle Edgeless 500’s for my project.

[Raige93]

I hear good things about those towels, I think you will be good to go, it last's longer than the H2O that I can tell you from experience. H2O is really made to be used post wash, so if you're going to wash and decon, you'd almost have to wash again to use it, and, while there are some work arounds to this, if you're going through the trouble you may as well use the paint sealant, especially if you have it. 

 

I use a red hex-grip applicator (Adam's sells these) and apply a few drops at a time to until and work it into the pad with my fingers until the majority of the pad's face is grey, then I'll put 2-3 pea sized drops and blot it around a panel (or half a hood or so) before working it in in a cross hatch pattern. Move onto the next section, 2-3 more drops, etc. Once I'm done I go back to where I started and start buffing off. Usually one towel will suffice to remove all the left over Sealant but having an extra one to buff over after your first pass probably wouldn't hurt if you're afraid of leaving some behind. 

 

Let me know if I can help any other way!

[Rich]

.  As long as you polish before waxing, the Revive is great for that.  And I'd skip the Guard and Gloss for now, and just apply the wax.  Next time  you wash your ride, you can apply the Guard and Gloss.  

[falcaineer]

Agreed with above, recommend PS as your base, then use HGG (my preference) and/or BW as the topper(s). All are easy to apply by hand. Of note, you can also use the grey MF pads to apply PS; I've done so without issue, especially in areas where my polisher can't easily reach. Just ensure you get a nice, even, thin layer as best you can and you're all set.

 

To try and address some of your DA fears, know I felt the same way. But by using sound principles with quality products, the risk of causing damage is low. Plenty of others out there, but here's an oldie but goodie series from Junkman on using a DA, especially for novices. While it's on the Porter Cable, the principles are the same for other DA polishers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Black Bowtie]

14 hours ago, Rich said:

.  As long as you polish before waxing, the Revive is great for that.  And I'd skip the Guard and Gloss for now, and just apply the wax.  Next time  you wash your ride, you can apply the Guard and Gloss.  

 

X two on what Rich posted, plus the Revive is a great paint cleaner. I would add Brilliant Glaze also myself, so Revive, Brilliant Glaze and Buttery Wax, all east to apply and remove by hand.