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Paint Correction advice - follow up


Dinomax1

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Hi All -

 

Last year I paint corrected 2 cars, 2017 Corvette and 2015 Mercedes E-class. Both cars had some deep buffer trails when I got them. I used the same process and products on both cars using a DA polisher and cars looked fantastic (buffer trails went away):

 

Step 1:  Correcting Polish with Orange Hex Pad

Step 2:  Finishing Polish with white pad

Step 3:  Brilliant Glaze - hand applied

Step 4:  Wax - hand applied

 

Questions......

* What should my annual maintenance be on the corrected cars?  - they are stored outside in the Northeast (unfortunately)

* How many times in the cars lifetime can I use the above process before compromising the clear coat?

* does using only finishing polish and  brilliant glaze, DA applied, cut the clear much?

 

Looking for direction.....

 

Thank you !

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2 hours ago, Dinomax1 said:

Questions......

* What should my annual maintenance be on the corrected cars?  - they are stored outside in the Northeast (unfortunately)

* How many times in the cars lifetime can I use the above process before compromising the clear coat?

* does using only finishing polish and  brilliant glaze, DA applied, cut the clear much?

 

Looking for direction.....

 

Thank you !


Let’s take your questions in order. 
 

Maintenance varies based on the needs of the car. Is it swirled again?  If so, the process begins. If it’s not, you can clean it up and reapply protection. We use a super fine polish that has a very tiny cut to it that we almost apply as a cleaner. That way we aren’t really trying to cut the clear coat. Assess the finish, and treat it with the least aggressive method to get the results you desire. 
 

How many times a car can be polished is a function of what products are being used and what damage is being repaired. Use a fine polish, and it takes such a tiny amount off. Use a compound and a wool pad, and the clear can come off pretty quickly. We use a paint thickness gauge to determine what we can and can’t do. As a rule, you only want to remove 1/3 of the clear coat thickness over the lifetime.
 

Different vehicles tolerate polish/compound differently. Both of your vehicles tend to have a harder clear coat which is a bit better for standing up to polish. Subaru for example tends to have clear coat you can sneeze at and remove. 
 

Finishing polish will cut less than correcting polish or compound. BG shouldn’t cut at all when used on the proper pad, and neither should sealant. The pad plays a big role in the action of the cut. Use the right pad for the job. 

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