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Paint Thickness Gauge


Chris@Adams

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In my experience they work extremely well... but they're also extremely expensive.

 

This is the one I want... just trying to swallow that $700 price tag for something I'll only use occasionally is a little tough.

 

If you don't mind me asking why are you looking into one?

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i guess its a good investment if u often by used cars

 

Or if you plan on rotary buffing... cost of a paint gauge is whats kept me from graduating to rotary. I don't want to start unless I have all the right tools and cutting paint w/o knowing how much you have to work with is a scary proposition... especially when its not your car.

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In my experience they work extremely well... but they're also extremely expensive.

 

This is the one I want... just trying to swallow that $700 price tag for something I'll only use occasionally is a little tough.

 

If you don't mind me asking why are you looking into one?

For use on my cars ,to keep track of my clear coat thickness after any paint corrections , and also when I buff on other peoples cars. Thanks, Chris

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For use on my cars ,to keep track of my clear coat thickness after any paint corrections , and also when I buff on other peoples cars. Thanks, Chris

 

What kind of polisher are you using? If it's a PC, you're not going to shave off enough clear for it to be a real concern.

Edited by Baron_Von_Awesome
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I have both, but I use the DA the most !

 

If you're using a rotary (even part time), a gauge is definately a good idea. However, keep in mind that the cheap gauges will tell you the combined, overall thickness of the paint/clear.

 

That's why I went with the Positector 6000 - a $300 gauge is almost as accurate when taking a basic measurement, but the Positector can differentiate between the clear coat & paint so I know exactly what I have to work with.

 

As a work around if you decide to go with a cheaper gauge, measure the backside of your door. From there, measure clear your coated body panel. The difference between the two numbers is the thickness of your clear coat.

Edited by Baron_Von_Awesome
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If you're using a rotary (even part time), a gauge is definately a good idea. However, keep in mind that the cheap gauges will tell you the combined, overall thickness of the paint/clear.

 

That's why I went with the Positector 6000 - a $300 gauge is almost as accurate when taking a basic measurement, but the Positector can differentiate between the clear coat & paint so I know exactly what I have to work with.

 

As a work around if you decide to go with a cheaper gauge, measure the backside of your door. From there, measure clear your coated body panel. The difference between the two numbers is the thickness of your clear coat.

So you are saying that the Positector 6000 will measure the clear coat only ? That is all I need to know anyway ! Thanks, Chris

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Another important thing to consider is the type of material that you are going to measure. The Corvette being fiberglass dictates that a certain type of gauge be purchase which can measure fiberglass. I'm looking at $1300. That's about what my scanner for the car runs. If you want to do it right, you got to pay the price.

 

Something else that your paint thickness gauge must do is measure in microns. The cheap paint thickness gauges measure in MIL's. There are 1000 microns in a MIL. Your paint and clear coat are on the car at a certain micron amount. When it comes to paint correction, you don't want to be removing a MIL of anything! Your better paint thickness gauges will measure in both.

 

The ability to differentiate between the clear and the paint is a must. It is really cool how these things work. Remember, you get what you pay for and if you plan to do this type of work seriously, you need to buy the tools that the big boys use. :2thumbs:

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Another important thing to consider is the type of material that you are going to measure. The Corvette being fiberglass dictates that a certain type of gauge be purchase which can measure fiberglass. I'm looking at $1300. That's about what my scanner for the car runs. If you want to do it right, you got to pay the price.

 

Something else that your paint thickness gauge must do is measure in microns. The cheap paint thickness gauges measure in MIL's. There are 1000 microns in a MIL. Your paint and clear coat are on the car at a certain micron amount. When it comes to paint correction, you don't want to be removing a MIL of anything! Your better paint thickness gauges will measure in both.

 

The ability to differentiate between the clear and the paint is a must. It is really cool how these things work. Remember, you get what you pay for and if you plan to do this type of work seriously, you need to buy the tools that the big boys use. :2thumbs:

Would you be able to reccomend one to use on metal that would measure just the clear coat ? Thanks, Chris

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This is a good one in that range - a buddy of mine has it and it's great value for money:

 

http://highlinemeter.com/

 

That one is typical of what I was finding when I was looking for one. Great price, all the features that I needed but it doesn't read fiberglass. :(

 

Keep in mind Chris that it is not going to just read how thick the clear coat is, it is going to read both the paint and the clear, but give you separate values at which time you will be able to determine which reading is what. Some brand allow you to show the readings separate after it has determined the two readings.

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