Junkman's "How to Wet Sanding - The Videos!"

[Junkman2008]

You've asked and asked for it, and I finally made the time and got it done. My start to finish videos on DIY wet sanding!

 

There are 8 videos in this series, however, most of the information will be covered in the first 4 videos. Halfway through the fourth video, I change up and try using the PC-7424 as an orbital sander. Now the only orbital sand paper that I had was 3000 grit, which isn't going to do all that much so I had mixed feelings about the results. Add to that the price of orbital sandpaper and I wasn't about to invest a whole lot of money trying to see what would happen. Maybe somebody from 3M will see this and donate some to the Junkman's research fund!

 

Just as always, READ THE TEXT THAT ACCOMPANIES EACH VIDEO BEFORE YOU WATCH THE VIDEO! This cuts down on the repeat questions that I get, which are usually covered in the text (not to mention the videos). If you skip through the videos and miss something I covered in detail there, I'm just going to send you back to the videos. If you ever have to suffer through uploading videos of high quality to You Tube, you'll understand (it took 12 hours to upload these). Plus, I always get bombarded with questions from people who stumble upon the videos, not having any knowledge of the thread that they are posted in. It actually takes me hours to answer my emails some days!

 

So, with that said, here we go!

 

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuYGtOyk-28&feature=plcp&context=C32ddf2bUDOEgsToPDskI63TAiC-WymRrh1AYgP529]Wet Sanding 101 - Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]

 

In this video, I talk about things like the paint thickness gauge, the grits of sandpaper that you can use with Adam's Polishes, and general information on what to and what not to do. I also go into the description of the Adam's Focal Pads and Backing Plate Kit..

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8PvDksGSZw&feature=plcp&context=C3271e74UDOEgsToPDskLAeHy7fi0p7EQQ6bYaVSlc]Wet Sanding 101 - Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]

 

In this video, I continue the discussion about the focal pads and start the wet sanding process using the 2500 grit sandpaper. Every once in a while, you may hear me say that I'm using 2000 grit paper. That is not true, that is just me having a senior moment.

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EMZJQ6KKko&feature=plcp&context=C3866f86UDOEgsToPDskICMp12nylLxXIwDnxfLEmX]Wet Sanding 101 - Part 3 - YouTube[/ame]

 

In this video, I'm removing the scratches with both grits of sandpaper. Once I get through with the 3000 grit paper, I find that I didn't go deep enough with the 2500 grit. Thus, I repeat the process again. The reason I didn't go deep enough was because I was trying to be careful and not go through the clear coat. This is why you need a paint thickness gauge. Without one, you are just guessing at how much clear coat you have to work with. That hood had been painted before so it has more clear on it than a car that has factory clear on it. Factory clear is notoriously thin and you have to be extremely careful when wet sanding on it.

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYXJje9hM0s&feature=plcp&context=C3022bf9UDOEgsToPDskJedRfTdTuFDaXxXDy5SKn5]Wet Sanding 101 - Part 4 - YouTube[/ame]

 

In this video, you see me remove the damage that I've done using the Focal Pads and Adam's Swirl and Haze Remover Car Polish (SHR). Halfway through this video, we are basically done with the repair. I do show you the area that I'm working on and how much of the damage has already been repaired. All that is left is to follow the SHR with the Adam's Fine Machine Polish, and then the wax of your choice. I prefer the new Adam's Americana Premium Paste Wax

 

After that, I go into the discussion of using the PC-7424 as a orbital sander. Since the sandpaper that I was using is so fine (3000 grit), it really didn't do much but laugh at the paint. If I am ever to do this again, I will definitely have to get a heavy grit sandpaper. At $80.00 a box for 15 sheets, I won't be doing it anytime soon!

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a0TkuQYsUk&feature=plcp&context=C389df95UDOEgsToPDskLs-H5fsri6Uy0YN7e6wUwc]Wet Sanding 101 - Part 5 - YouTube[/ame]

 

In this video, you get to see me using the PC as a orbital sander using some 3000 grit orbital sanding disk. The results are not what I was looking for as 3000 grit sandpaper is just not harsh enough to do what I was thinking I could do. Had I used some 1500 grit paper, I would have really accomplished something but the damage would have probably been unrecoverable. That would have called for a visit to the paint shop!

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVtF382qFGI&feature=plcp&context=C35a92fdUDOEgsToPDskLq3S8g5sjsJj1Ba2djSFDY]Wet Sanding 101 - Part 6 - YouTube[/ame]

 

Just what it says. I use SHR and a orange pad to correct the damage that I did with the orbital sander. I show a new technique that I am using consisting of a lot of pressure with the polisher set on a speed of 5 - 6. As I approach the end of my buffing process, I let up on the polisher and let the weight of the polisher do the final work.

 

I only use this technique with the orange pad, never with the white or black pads.

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flv5XAH8vLs&feature=plcp&context=C3f8cb6eUDOEgsToPDskK12cl809j4Ozh_g9tPhjMx]Wet Sanding 101 - Part 7 - YouTube[/ame]

 

In this video, we look at the results of my new technique. I also discuss some of the supplies that I used with the orbital sander. The results speak for themselves. Adam's Polishes are for real!

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9h17o1thCNg&feature=plcp&context=C3cb2a10UDOEgsToPDskIyLj7qKMas0xxyS5-5ya4Q]Wet Sanding 101 - Conclusion - YouTube[/ame]

 

Just as the titles says, I go over everything that I did and give you my insight of the experience. In the end, I will stick to wet sanding when it comes to getting rid of scratches. Maybe if I had to sand a entire panel would I give thought to using the PC as a orbital sander but for now, it's one scratch at a time.

 

 

 

Well that's it folks! Give'em a watch and let me know what you think. I think you'll find them as educational as always, with me showing my senior monents splashed throughout the production. What can an old jarhead say?

 

 

 

Here are some pictures from the experience:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Junkman

Edited February 6, 2012 by Junkman2008

[mc2hill]

Great work AJ.

I did a 'tuition detail' with a friend last week (I helped him with 3 customer cars and he helped me with my truck). I watched all the videos a few days before (on the 50" thru the PS3, the only way to view them!). We were wet sanding attempting to remove some old key marks, and got them looking good. A few day later I tried it solo with some 3000 grit and it looks much better.

 

Thanks for all the great information to make this 'new skill' not quite so scary to acquire.

 

BTW, where do you get your very fine(over 2000 grit) paper?

 

Thanks again,

Mike.

[Junkman2008]

Great work AJ.

I did a 'tuition detail' with a friend last week (I helped him with 3 customer cars and he helped me with my truck). I watched all the videos a few days before (on the 50" thru the PS3, the only way to view them!). We were wet sanding attempting to remove some old key marks, and got them looking good. A few day later I tried it solo with some 3000 grit and it looks much better.

 

Thanks for all the great information to make this 'new skill' not quite so scary to acquire.

 

BTW, where do you get your very fine(over 2000 grit) paper?

 

Thanks again,

Mike.

 

Glad to hear the videos helped. I have a couple of local stores that sell that grit. Online, you can find a million outlets.

[mc2hill]

I have a couple of local stores that sell that grit.

 

Are they body shop supply or auto parts places that carry them?

[Junkman2008]

Are they body shop supply or auto parts places that carry them?

 

That's the ONLY place you'll find those grits.

[Superdutytd]

Are they body shop supply or auto parts places that carry them?

 

I had to go to body shop supply places. They only had over 1500 in Meguiars Unitgrit.

[Junkman2008]

Yea, body shop supply places is what I meant.

[tlsole]

Does this wet sanding apply to plastic headlights/glass also? The whole different direction stuff? I typically only go one way (horizontally). But maybe going a different direction like vertically, or even slant will remove more scratch marks?

 

Thanks!

[Junkman2008]

Does this wet sanding apply to plastic headlights/glass also? The whole different direction stuff? I typically only go one way (horizontally). But maybe going a different direction like vertically, or even slant will remove more scratch marks?

 

Thanks!

 

I don't wet sand headlights. Never had a need to. If they are fogged up or hazy, I just use the Adam's Swirl & Haze remover and the orange 4" pad. Works every time and is a whole lot less abrasive to the glass. Look for my write-up on how to do so. It's a sticky in the Detailer's Write-Up forum.

[Michael B.]

I don't wet sand headlights. Never had a need to. If they are fogged up or hazy, I just use the Adam's Swirl & Haze remover and the orange 4" pad. Works every time and is a whole lot less abrasive to the glass. Look for my write-up on how to do so. It's a sticky in the Detailer's Write-Up forum.

 

Yes here i am again..lol...

 

i was wondering, i was planning on wet sanding a buddies headlight soon (they are really bad) but maybe i should try with the polisher only (its a D/A like the PC) and see if thats enough.

 

Thanks for the great vid AND extremly good help in the whole detailing world, you really made me wanna do more, but its going uphill here in denmark when it comes to detailing, but i havent giving up yet

 

I bow for my tutorial guru

[Junkman2008]

Yes here i am again..lol...

 

i was wondering, i was planning on wet sanding a buddies headlight soon (they are really bad) but maybe i should try with the polisher only (its a D/A like the PC) and see if thats enough.

 

Thanks for the great vid AND extremly good help in the whole detailing world, you really made me wanna do more, but its going uphill here in denmark when it comes to detailing, but i havent giving up yet

 

I bow for my tutorial guru

 

Thanks Mike. The orbital may work if you use an aggressive compound. It is definitely worth a try. Wet sanding is way more work.

[Oupavoc]

Does this wet sanding apply to plastic headlights/glass also? The whole different direction stuff? I typically only go one way (horizontally). But maybe going a different direction like vertically, or even slant will remove more scratch marks?

 

Thanks!

 

I don't wet sand headlights. Never had a need to. If they are fogged up or hazy, I just use the Adam's Swirl & Haze remover and the orange 4" pad. Works every time and is a whole lot less abrasive to the glass. Look for my write-up on how to do so. It's a sticky in the Detailer's Write-Up forum.

 

 

What if the headlight isn't foggy or hazed and just has a scrape or scratch?

[Junkman2008]

It depends on how deep the scratch is.

[LinPark]

Another great series - very educational - I couldn't find where this had been asked so here goes. In a few of your other videos about the PC you point out the small piece that mentions "For Use with 5" Pads" - is there any special setup to do with the PC when using these Focal Pads or does it just all bolt on and replace the 7" pads as is?

 

Thanks again AJ!!!

[Junkman2008]

When using the focal pads, you simply remove the back plate used with the 7" pads and replace it with the 4" back plate. Stick your 4" pad on and go for it.

[Laguna]

Wow, this seems easier than buffing. Definitely could make some customers faces go WOW.

 

Can't wait to be able to afford a paint gauge and then I have a test car that I can get some experience on and then I have my own goat. Have some spots I would LOVE to take care of. Would be awesome to see the original paint and look back.

[Junkman2008]

Wow, this seems easier than buffing. Definitely could make some customers faces go WOW.

 

Can't wait to be able to afford a paint gauge and then I have a test car that I can get some experience on and then I have my own goat. Have some spots I would LOVE to take care of. Would be awesome to see the original paint and look back.

 

Remember, "seems easier" is right. I make it look a lot easier than it is!

[LinPark]

Remember, "seems easier" is right. I make it look a lot easier than it is!

 

I would say you made it look "simple" - if it was easy, you wouldn't have been breathing so hard.

[Junkman2008]

 

Score 2 points for you! You are corrrrrrect!

[Wilburbeest]

I have watched the videos and I have to say they've helped me out a lot! I was wondering your input on my situation though. My car is going to get repainted pretty soon, and afterward I was going to attempt to wet sand/buff it. The guy that is painting it, as far as I can tell, is very good at spraying a smooth finish, so I imagine there won't be any crazy orange peel or anything like that to work with considering he will be using a very nice clear. However, here is the hitch. I have never wet sanded before and am a bit leary of taking on an entire car..... and one that happens to have $720 in materials on it. The painter says he is willing to show me the basics. In short, do you think I would be totally off my rocker to attempt this? Or if there is very little orange peel, would I be better off just spot sanding if I find any dust in the paint (there will probably be a spot or 2, its a garage job) and only buffing the rest? Also, if I were to use the PC to buff out the damage, what pads would you recommend?

Edited June 3, 2010 by Wilburbeest

[LinPark]

If you car is being repainted, why would you need to wetsand it after that? I would think the wetsanding technique is to remove light scratches rather than repaint the whole panel. If you are going to repaint the whole car, there should be no reason to sand anything after that is done or have I completely misunderstood your question?

[Kustom_FX]

You want a smooth finish? You wet sand after a fresh paint shoot.. NO ONE shoots a 100% smooth coat. Wet snad and then some machine work will give you a FLAWLESS finish.. if of course you do it correctly!

[Junkman2008]

... I have never wet sanded before and am a bit leary of taking on an entire car..... and one that happens to have $720 in materials on it. The painter says he is willing to show me the basics. In short, do you think I would be totally off my rocker to attempt this?

 

Allow me to provide you with the best possible answer for the question you have ask by totally throwing tact out the window so that I may be as frank as I can.

 

ARE YOU SMOKING CRACK???

 

On what planet did you wake up on that influenced you to believe that you, a total novice to wet sanding (or any other kind of advanced paint care), has remotely the ability to wet sand a freshly painted car? You actually go as far as to mention the cost of the supplies as if the amount was significant! How about having to totally repaint the car after you finish screwing it up? There is no way in hell that you should even begin to dream about doing this. Wet sanding is best left to a professional and wet sanding an entire car is best left to someone who does not have to ask if they are the one who should be doing it. If the car requires wet sanding after the paint job, YOUR PAINTER IS THE ONE WHO IS SUPPOSED TO DO IT! If he doesn't or doesn't want to, then you need a NEW painter. That is part of the paint job when you deal with a PROFESSIONAL.

 

Okay, now that I have expressed myself frankly, allow me to give you my tactfully written response:

 

This is a job best left to those who are experienced in doing so. My gut feelings say that you are probably not that person. I wouldn't advise it.

 

If you car is being repainted, why would you need to wetsand it after that?

 

I'd like to know the same thing! Although a car may need to be wet sanded after a paint job, I have NEVER seen a case where the CUSTOMER has to do the work.

 

I would think the wetsanding technique is to remove light scratches rather than repaint the whole panel. If you are going to repaint the whole car, there should be no reason to sand anything after that is done or have I completely misunderstood your question?

 

The reason you wet sand a car after painting is to eliminate stuff like orange peel and other undesirable effects in the finish. The PAINTER usually does this, not the inexperienced, never has done it before customer. Your heart surgeon doesn't ask you to close up your own chest after a triple by-pass surgery and a painter shouldn't be asking you to, or showing you how to wet sand HIS work if he is any kind of professional.

 

You want a smooth finish? You wet sand after a fresh paint shoot.. NO ONE shoots a 100% smooth coat. Wet snad and then some machine work will give you a FLAWLESS finish.. if of course you do it correctly!

 

Now FX, before you give advice to a total novice to wet sand on their car, ask yourself this question. "Would I allow this person to do to MY car what I am suggesting that he do to his own?" We know that the answer is NO, so keep that in mind when suggesting that someone attempt an advanced repair. I like to be extremely responsible with what I post for advice because somebody might actually follow it. You would hate to have a guy come back and post a horror story after following your advice, regardless or not if your intentions are good. Wet sanding is to dangerous to do on something you care about. I assume that if he cares enough to paint the car, he probably cares about it to somewhat of a significant degree.

 

Just an FYI.

Edited August 24, 2010 by Junkman2008

[Wilburbeest]

Pardon me for asking! Holy $#%! dude, I don't know if the belittlement and down-talking was quite necessary, but point taken. I appreciate the straight answer though:lol: What would make me consider it? Well I happen to do A LOT of DIY projects and have done many with no previous experience. Partially because I love to learn new stuff, and partially because I am often working on a budget. Not to sound ****y, but the results are often people with higher experience levels complimenting my work. This project though is one where I know there is an art to it, so I thought I would ask SOMEBODY WHOM I RESPECT for a good solid opinion as to if I should even think about it. As for the painter, it is an old body guy that's helping me out for very little return on his part. So for the wet sanding he told me he would be willing to teach me, but I have to do the work or hire somebody if I want that done. If this was a shop then yes I agree I would need a new painter. However, this is not a shop project other than a couple things like some fiberglass work to the hood (only in budget through a hook-up) and probably the wet sanding. And yes he knows what he's doing. He has two GORGEOUS classic chevys sitting in his garage, both of which he did the same paint process on that mine will receive. Thanks again for the straight answer:rockon:

Edited June 5, 2010 by Wilburbeest

[Junkman2008]

I applaud your willingness to learn and I don't want to discourage that in any way. HOWEVER, this is NOT something you want to learn on a car you care about, thus the "slap you down and knock some common sense into you" approach. The only reason I choose to do that is that it cost me $1900 worth of a paint job to fix a screw up when I was learning this. You DO NOT want to learn that way. Thus, practice on a hooptie or old body panel until you get good at this. A fresh paint job IS NOT a template to learn on. Believe me, you'll buy me a steak later for slapping you silly now. It's tough love for your paint that I'm giving you, as I do all my comrades who have "a face palm" moment.

 

 

I still love ya' man.

[Wilburbeest]

Bahaha, I feel ya man. I have my stock dog-eared hood that I can practice on, but this particular project I'll likely have a professional do;). I DO want to learn this stuff, but I think when I get a secondary car that I don't care so much about (my toy is also my transportation), which will probably also be my first full paint job attempt, would be a better time. In that case if it goes awry I'm fully ok with it because not only would I be using much cheaper materials, but experience is what you get when something doesn't go quite exactly right. But if I screwed up this job I'd be liable to kick my own ***

Edited June 5, 2010 by Wilburbeest