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New to Claying Question


fiveoh

Question

Is it possible to have too much detail spray when claying? I'm putting a ton of it on and the bar is gliding but there is still some stuff left on I can feel with a bag on my hand, even after i've gone over it 3 different times.

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It is possible to have too much. The surface should look like the car has been drizzled on a bit...it shouldn't be soaked with Detail Spray or else you'd have to use too much pressure on the bar to start removing contaminants effectively.

 

Wow quick response! Thanks i'm gonna go try it again with less i definately soaked it. :)

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Well I tried it twice more. It's definately a helluva lot smoother then the non clayed part but its not "glass" smooth. I'm not really sure what im doing wrong. Could it be the heat? Im doing it in the garage but its 103 outside. It seems like the detail spray either gets to be a lot(like puddled up) or I mist it and it dries up real quick and starts leaving clay residue.

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Well I tried it twice more. It's definately a helluva lot smoother then the non clayed part but its not "glass" smooth. I'm not really sure what im doing wrong. Could it be the heat? Im doing it in the garage but its 103 outside. It seems like the detail spray either gets to be a lot(like puddled up) or I mist it and it dries up real quick and starts leaving clay residue.

 

A little clay residue isn't really a bad thing, it'll come off, but yea... its likely the heat is a tad high for it right now.

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A little clay residue isn't really a bad thing, it'll come off, but yea... its likely the heat is a tad high for it right now.

Good to know I was scared I was marring the paint when it started leaving clay residue.

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Clay will start to get tacky in temperatures above the mid-eighties since it's essentially glorified silly putty: when that happens, it will do things it's not supposed to do - stick to the finish and not shear contaminants as effectively. And since most detail sprays contain alcohol, those will evaporate much more rapidly in heat as well.

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It is possible to have too much. The surface should look like the car has been drizzled on a bit...it shouldn't be soaked with Detail Spray or else you'd have to use too much pressure on the bar to start removing contaminants effectively.

 

 

Dont tell Junkman this.:D

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Dont tell Junkman this.:D

 

Different folks have different techniques.

 

And speaking of claying: I have a really, really, really nasty detail coming up this weekend! You're going to cringe when you see a clay bar totally black on one side and blue on the other :willy:

Edited by Baron_Von_Awesome
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Was that off that green suv?

 

To tell you the truth I hate detailing cars that have neglected paint. You have to use so much off all your products to get them clean.

 

Which is why the detailing gods bestowed upon us; gallon sizes and discounted bulk purchases. ;)

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Was that off that green suv?

 

To tell you the truth I hate detailing cars that have neglected paint. You have to use so much off all your products to get them clean.

 

That's why a good detail costs so much.That clay was from a 2002 WRX

 

 

Which is why the detailing gods bestowed upon us; gallon sizes and discounted bulk purchases. ;)

 

They also gave us 5 gallon sizes which I like as well, I go through several items pretty fast.

Edited by Sundog Detailing
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Clay will start to get tacky in temperatures above the mid-eighties since it's essentially glorified silly putty: when that happens, it will do things it's not supposed to do - stick to the finish and not shear contaminants as effectively. And since most detail sprays contain alcohol, those will evaporate much more rapidly in heat as well.

 

Since I'm new here and doing some reading, I found this to be great info.

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I finally did my first claying today on my 2006 F-150. The color is smokestone (it's a lincoln color-kinda silver I guess) and I always wondered why it looked like it was covered in little rust spots. The clay pulled them all out (with some elbow grease of course).

It did seem to me that when there was a little less detail spray on the surface, the spots came out easier. And it made a huge difference on the smoothness and cleanliness of the paint/clear. I got the bed done so far and my arms got a serious workout.

I tried the shr and revive followed by buttery wax all by hand and don't feel that the shr and revive were worth the extra work due to the clear being in such good shape. But I would like to get the PC and try that with the shr and machine polish to see if that makes any difference or not. Any thoughts?

I only used the shr and revive on the tailgate but i used the buttery wax on the whole bed(just to get some protection on there for the time being since I clayed it).

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You would be rubbing your finish for a looooong time using SHR by hand to net any major swirl reduction. If you were to look at your finish with halogen lights and did a before and after with the PC you would notice a big difference, more so on dark colored cars.

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Well I tried it twice more. It's definately a helluva lot smoother then the non clayed part but its not "glass" smooth. I'm not really sure what im doing wrong. Could it be the heat? Im doing it in the garage but its 103 outside. It seems like the detail spray either gets to be a lot(like puddled up) or I mist it and it dries up real quick and starts leaving clay residue.

 

At 103* outside.....I'd be inside with a cold one..not detailing:cheers:

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