Swirl & Haze Remover

[Team Adam's]

Swirl & Haze Remover

 

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-97-swirl-haze-remover-16oz.aspx

 

Adam’s Swirl & Haze Remover is not rubbing compound. The alumina-based micro-compound formula is less abrasive than toothpaste and gently removes swirls and hazing from clearcoats and painted surfaces. For use by hand or machine. Contains no silicone. Body Shop safe. For best results, follow or combine with our Revive Polish or Fine Machine Polish.

 

Amazing with our Orange "Swirl Killer" pad!

Edited December 20, 2008 by Adam

[Adam]

Esteban, I learn more each day, and it's from customers mostly. Clear coats vary widely, that's for sure. Corvettes have one of the hardest, most difficult clear coats, while Ferrari's have a very soft clear. The list goes on . . . .

 

When it comes to repainted vehicles, there are literally infinite differences, as the combinations of paint and clear, plus the time spend in the oven can yield zillions of differences of the finished product.

 

Questions:

 

1. Most importantly, did you start with a test section on the Tacoma, and work it using different pressures?
   
2. Were you happy with the test section, and not happy with the way the truck turned out?
   
3. How much pressure did you apply with the PC and orange pad?
   

It's key not to complete ANY vehicle until you have achieved results that you like on a 24" square section, preferable in an area of the worst surface conditions.

 

Thanks in advance for getting back with us here Esteban!

 

-Adam:2thumbs:

[estecoca]

So, I started on the hood of the Honda, and I was pleased with the results. Actually, I was surprised to see that I even removed some scratches I thought I would have forever. I finished the car and observed great results.

 

I then moved on to the Tacoma. I started on the tailgate and never got past it as I couldnt eliminate the swirls. I tried the following tips:

 

1. used a scale to measure the pressure I was using - aimed for ~30 lbs

2. moved really slow, first left-to-right, then top-to-bottom

 

At this point, I suspect the following may be issues I am facing:

1. orange pad was full of product from the Honda and needs to be cleaned. I attempted to do both vehicles in the same day.

2. not using enough pressure?

3. I had used all my good microfiber rags on the Honda and had to use some purchased from Target. Could it be that I really was removing the swirls and then making new ones in my wipe down?

 

I refuse to accept that I have to live with these swirls and that only a pro can remove them...I'll keep trying.

 

Thanks for your help!

[Adam]

Nice! Good answers Esteban. Here we go:

 

1. I'd imagine you have or will clean the pad for the next go round
   
2. Apply a mist of Detail Spray to the Orange Swirl Killer Pad.
   
3. Apply a single fine-line of Swirl & Haze Remover to the pad, a circle of polish, at about the center of the pad.
   
4. Rub the pad on the finish to work the polish evenly across the pad.
   
5. Set the PC to '5' and touch it to the finish of the vehicle.
   
6. Turn it on, and gradually apply enough pressure to slow the machine.
   
7. Staying inside the 24" square test area, go VERY, VERY slowly up, down, then side to side.
   
8. Bump the machine to setting 6.
   
9. It should take about 2 minutes to do the section if you are going slow enough. Time it to see, using your watch or garage clock.
   
10. Remove the residue with a Super Plush Towel.
    

 

• (It's not worth using cheap towels on your paint, use them for checking oil, cleaning wheels, etc.)
  

REPEAT STEPS 1 - 10, using Fine Machine Polish instead of Swirl & Haze with the Orange Pad. Same speed, same pressure.

 

Remove the Orange Pad and install the White Pad.

 

Repeat steps 1-10 with the Fine Machine Polish on the White Pad, same speeds, same pressure.

 

Remove the residue. Report back!

 

Thanks!

[estecoca]

Adam,

 

Thanks so much for the help. I will certainly follow your directions and report back. I wonder if it would be possible for me to submit to you - and the other pros on here - a video of my technique for your critique? I would like to work in person with someone like you, but I doubt there are any clinics scheduled for the Tulsa area. lol. Let me know if you are open to this type of assistance and if you have done this before...

 

Thanks

[Adam]

Adam,

 

Thanks so much for the help. I will certainly follow your directions and report back. I wonder if it would be possible for me to submit to you - and the other pros on here - a video of my technique for your critique? .....

 

Thanks

 

Love the idea, and I hope it sparks a trend Esteban!

 

Thanks, and please post the link to your video if have time to make one.

 

Nice!

[Bill-V8V]

We like video even better than pictures !!!!!!!

[Loud Pedal]

I thought I read somewhere on the forum that SHR and FMP can be combined in 1 step, is this correct? If so are the results as good as using SHR then FMP separately, and on what pad (I have gen2)?

[GerryC]

It really depends on the condition of your paint. If you have serious swirl marks you'll want to use the SHR by itself first. If you have light swirl marks and don't want or need to go over the car more than once you can combine the SHR and polish to save time. use the orange pad whenever using SHR.

[SVT01LIGHTNING]

my whole deal with using a buffer and doing it myself is always hearing from different people that you could "burn" through the clearcoat if u dont use the buffer properly so thats why ive never tried it myself

 

my 01 lightning has been buffed once since i bought it used it had TERRIBLE swirls and we got most of them out....but before i started using adams products swirls started to appear again eventually overtime with washes and show season is coming up and i want an absolute perfect flawless finish.

 

when it warms up im goin to treat it to swirl haze remover,revive,and butter wax(ive used the butter wax before and i LOVE it)....and im going to hand polish it this go round and see how good it all works!!

[Nitelord]

I can say without a doubt, the S&H Remover will remove really nasty scratches.

 

I did the work van and it had scratches from tree branches, brooms from removing snow and I don't know what else. All the scratches that did not go through the clear coat are gone. The only thing left is two major scratches that appear to have had something dig into the paint and of course the stone chips. The van looked brand new from a distance.

 

The Swirl & Haze Remover is an awesome product. :thumbsup:

 

:pc: :pc::pc: :pc:

[SVT01LIGHTNING]

I can say without a doubt, the S&H Remover will remove really nasty scratches.

 

I did the work van and it had scratches from tree branches, brooms from removing snow and I don't know what else. All the scratches that did not go through the clear coat are gone. The only thing left is two major scratches that appear to have had something dig into the paint and of course the stone chips. The van looked brand new from a distance.

 

The Swirl & Haze Remover is an awesome product. :thumbsup:

 

:pc: :pc::pc: :pc:

 

good to hear....lookin forward to a good day to try it

[Bill-V8V]

my whole deal with using a buffer and doing it myself is always hearing from different people that you could "burn" through the clearcoat if u dont use the buffer properly so thats why ive never tried it myself

 

my 01 lightning has been buffed once since i bought it used it had TERRIBLE swirls and we got most of them out....but before i started using adams products swirls started to appear again eventually overtime with washes and show season is coming up and i want an absolute perfect flawless finish.

 

when it warms up im goin to treat it to swirl haze remover,revive,and butter wax(ive used the butter wax before and i LOVE it)....and im going to hand polish it this go round and see how good it all works!!

 

There is a big difference between a rotary and a PC, what you are talking about is a rotary. A PC is extremely safe for almost anyone to use. Just use a little caution around edges as the paint can be a little thin in some spots, especially if it is a respray. A rotary should only be used after extensive practice or by a professional. Get a PC or a Flex and you'll be kicking yourself for not getting one sooner :thumbsup:

[SVT01LIGHTNING]

There is a big difference between a rotary and a PC, what you are talking about is a rotary. A PC is extremely safe for almost anyone to use. Just use a little caution around edges as the paint can be a little thin in some spots, especially if it is a respray. A rotary should only be used after extensive practice or by a professional. Get a PC or a Flex and you'll be kicking yourself for not getting one sooner :thumbsup:

 

ahh see i did not know that.....still gonna see how it goes by hand-polishing then down the line ill move up to a

[SVT01LIGHTNING]

about to buy some S&H remover!! im usin it by hand this go round and didnt think to ask this question....when used by hand, do you still apply it with a MF applicator pad? i assume yes but i just want to make sure:confused:

[Team Adam's]

Yep, microfiber applicator pad is the ticket - check out today's daily special by the way!

[SVT01LIGHTNING]

that is a good deal! im hopin to get the PC by the end of the year:pc: