SHR and FMP

[routertyty]

So, in my 3 day detailing event this weekend, I found myself very frustrated with the SHR. No matter what I did, as soon as I started working the SHR it would start to dust. I really wasn't using very much at all. I've been watching all of the videos by Adam and Junkman just to make sure I'm doing the process correctly. All of my work was being done in my garage and out of the heat and sun. It was warm... probably 75 in the garage.

 

Then on the second day I switched to the FMP. I started working it at 5 on the PC. Then I tried using it on 6. Boy, it really worked well for me. I really worked the entire car using FMP and on setting 5 then went over it again at setting 6. The FMP seemed to get rid of scratches that the SHR wouldn't.

 

My finish is by no means flawless. I still have some scratches in the clear coat. Some I would have to wet sand to remove, other I would have thought that SHR would gotten rid of.

 

In the end, I didn't go for perfection. For me it just isn't realistic for me. I only want to do this process at most twice a year. My car looks awesome from a distance. I'm probably the only one that can still notices some of the scratches. I'm my own worst critic, I guess.

 

Do others find SHR equally frustrating and hard to work with? It just seems to me that the SHR isn't nearly as easy to work with as the other Adam's products.

[Chewy]

Looks great from here!

 

Is it a daily driver? If so, I wouldn't get to wrapped up with correcting the paint.

 

Most scratches are able to be removed with SHR and the PC, but I find that the 4" pads on a drill (rotary) helps level off the deeper scratches which I then follow up with the PC. I have my drill next to me as I use the PC to hit the deeper ones.

 

I get some dusting but not a ton.

 

Were the pads new, never used?

 

Sometimes if you don't clean them well you'll get dusting.

 

Make sure to prime using DS.

 

Chris

[routertyty]

Thanks Chris.

 

Yes, I cleaned the pads VERY well before using them. Also, I have the focus pads that I used on some of the bigger scratches. They didn't seem to do much other than make the surface of the car VERY hot. I was too worried about burning the paint to use those very much.

 

But I guess from a distance you cannot see any scratches. The pictures I took don't really tell all of the truth. So, maybe that's ok for me. It is a daily driver and I have to be realistic about how pristine I can keep this car. I want to get a new one anyway.

[Team Adam's]

Tyler,

 

Are you using the handle with your PC?

 

Reason I ask is that you will get what looks like dusting if the pad is not kept flush with the surface. For a lot of people doing that with the handle is not easy as you are placing pressure down off center, the tendency is then to torque to one side and lift the edge of the pad.

 

This causes the pad to throw polish out everywhere. Its one of the more common mistakes I observe when teaching or critiquing someone's process.

 

Its not always obvious to you as you're right on top, but someone standing off to the side can see the pad compressed on one side and the opposing edge lifted.

[Nordgrey]

I had it all going on when I used SHR the first time. Too much product, not enough DS and I kept getting an edge up like Dylan mentioned and that was without the handle. The orange dust was everywhere.

 

When I tried a smaller area with the 4" pads, less product and more DS on the PC it was like I was using a different polish all together. A 12 inch long scratch on the driver's quarter panel just disappeared.

[b8a4]

I too had the same problem with the hard clear coat, The dust you are experiencing is from when you use too much product(what was said above).

 

This is what I found when I did my ride. The product on my pad would get caked up and when I'd hit an edge or trim it was like a dust storm.

 

I changed my technique after watching Junkman's Slow cut Vid. Instead of adding more SHR I would "recharge" SHR by spraying the foam pad with some detail spray and worked the product longer.

 

This works great after you primed the pad, a little product truly goes a long way. With harder clear coats like Audi's you have to make sure the pores of the pad don't get clogged as this is what caused dusting for me. Work it slow at first to spread the product, then work at a faster speed it until it almost disappears, and what you’ll get is a nice glossy finish.

[routertyty]

Junkman's Slow Cut method is for soft clear coats. Isn't that what he said? I seem to have a very hard clear coat so I would need to apply lots of pressure.

[Chewy]

Junkman's Slow Cut method is for soft clear coats. Isn't that what he said? I seem to have a very hard clear coat so I would need to apply lots of pressure.

 

It'll work for both. Hard clears WILL take longer to correct. It was nothing for me to spend 3 hours on a door of my G8.

[b8a4]

It'll work for both. Hard clears WILL take longer to correct. It was nothing for me to spend 3 hours on a door of my G8.

 

I agree it will take longer, but, what I was trying to get at is that I used some of the points from the vid, like the fact that there is still a lot of product left even when you think you need more.

 

I agree with Chewy, some times 3 hours on one small panel is normal.

[Chris@Adams]

Remember less is more with product, that will cut down on dusting. Practice and patients is your best friend.:pc:Enjoy the detailing hobby!

[routertyty]

Ok, thanks for the tips. I'll try it out using the slow method with a very minimal amount of product to see if that works.

 

Also, will splashing a bit of water also increase the effects of SHR?

[Team Adam's]

Don't use water... a spray of detail spray into the face of the pad is MORE than enough to moisten things up.

[lawson4450]

i have found that using a small stiff bristle brush I have that is used for pad cleaning it looks like a pistol grip with a small brush on the end. So what i do is if i notice the pad caking up a little i just turn it on and run the brush across the pad a few times and it gets all that excess off the pad and opens the pores back up. it worked really well for me when i was working on a boat for one of the cops i know.

[lawson4450]

This is what i use

http://www.detailersdomain.com/foampadconditioningbrush.aspx

[johnb]

Remember less is more with product, that will cut down on dusting. Practice and patients is your best friend.:pc:Enjoy the detailing hobby!

welcome friend i was in the same boat when i started with shr-what i did is what you are doing posting for advice it almost seams strange that less product is more i took enough time to learn how to work it like junkman does take your time good things will come

[Junkman2008]

Junkman's Slow Cut method is for soft clear coats. Isn't that what he said? I seem to have a very hard clear coat so I would need to apply lots of pressure.

 

Actually, what I said is that the Slow Cut Technique was invented to be used with hard type paste compounds (similar to the consistency of Americana), and when using a polisher with limited power like the PC-7424XP. I would not use the Slow Cut method to do an entire car unless the compound I was using was of that hard consistency and the polisher I was using was the PC. I do use that technique to check a clear coat's hardness but that is not why the slow cut was conceived.

 

As for your dusting issue, these things only happen when you...

 

1. Use too much product or have too much product caked into your pad.

2. Use the polisher with it turned up too high which causes the product to break down too fast.

3. Dirty pads.

4. Too hot of a surface.

 

You can use detail spray to eliminate most of these issues. The best way to resolve your issue is for you to video tape when this is happening and then show me your technique. By the time I look at your pads, the amount of product that you are using and your technique, I bet I will be able to show you where the problem lies.