Honda question: 2007 Accord & 2011 CRV

[imcrazy]

Okay guys:

 

My Dad has a 2007 Accord that's pretty neglected certainly needs some correction and oxidation removal 136k miles on that one, he just bought it as a second car for him & my Mom..

 

Their main car is a 2011 CRV which looks like it has been pretty well cared for: they've had it for a year or two now... It has 100k ish miles on it - some light swirls but, I think finishing polish will suffice for this one...

 

Any general advice on working with Honda paint? I think I've heard that the clear coat is pretty soft? Should I avoid the Microfiber pad? Would I be OK to use an orange foam pad orange correcting polish with my Porter Cable DA?

 

My experience with correction is limited to a few late model GM's and a 2003 Ford Crown Vic...

 

Thanks!

Aaron...

Edited April 30, 2018 by imcrazy

[falcaineer]

I know it's your question, but while I can't address Honda paint specifially, I can get you thinking...the general rule is to start least aggressive first and work your way up from there. So unless you have FP and white foam pad, that would be the CP and orange foam pad. Try a 2x2 section and if that works, press on. It not, swap the pad for the MF and try that. It that still doesn't work, consider the HCC and blue pads. Good luck, and take some pics along the way to share with us.

[mc2hill]

It depends on the color - we had a pewter Civic and a silver Accord, and that paint was hard to correct before microfiber pads.  Our new charcoal Accord seems softer, but luckily the dealer did not touch it, so it has not  needed any polishing.

[LSX Maestro]

I would start with the Paint Correcting compound and orange foam pads.  After doing a 2x2 test area, wipe it off and inspect with a bright direct light (I've found even the flashlight on my iPhone can suffice for small area inspecting).  If it got all of the defects out, then you're good to go.  If not, try another pass with it, and if it still didn't get it out then you need more aggressive stuff.  Move to the Heavy Correcting and blue foam pads (I'd avoid microfiber unless you're digging a scratch out or really serious oxidization/swirling.  Once you do Heavy, you'll likely not see the full benefits until you've gone back over it with the Correcting/Orange.  I did all three steps on my black Z06 and it came out like a mirror.  

[falcaineer]

3 hours ago, LSX Maestro said:

I would start with the Paint Correcting compound and orange foam pads.  After doing a 2x2 test area, wipe it off and inspect with a bright direct light (I've found even the flashlight on my iPhone can suffice for small area inspecting).  If it got all of the defects out, then you're good to go.  If not, try another pass with it, and if it still didn't get it out then you need more aggressive stuff.  Move to the Heavy Correcting and blue foam pads (I'd avoid microfiber unless you're digging a scratch out or really serious oxidization/swirling.  Once you do Heavy, you'll likely not see the full benefits until you've gone back over it with the Correcting/Orange.  I did all three steps on my black Z06 and it came out like a mirror.  

 

Good advice. Is there an echo in here? ?

[Nickfire20]

I did my wifes 06 CRV last year and will again soon...it is soft paint, I would definitely start with FINISHING POLISH and a WHITE PAD first.

 

you could probably also try ONE STEP and a WHITE PAD.

 

Seal her up good afterwards .

 

I really like Adam’s One Step as a polish, but I still seal afterwards.  

[shane@detailedreflections]

Some good advice above. 

 

I will add that some Honda’s we have done have razor thin clear coats. Proceed with caution. Thin, soft paint...

[pirahnah3]

IF you cant check the clear depth be careful, I have read on here several times of Hondas having thing clear, and being soft. It corrects easier, but it burns thru fast. The rule of thumb is least aggressive first. 

[imcrazy]

Thanks for the input guys... I am going to go after it with a white pad and finishing polish in a test section and see how it goes.... No doubt I will put some sealant on, probably LPS but, maybe just H20 G&G I am going to give that to my Dad to use instead of the Turtle Wax ICE he's used over the years...

Edited May 1, 2018 by imcrazy

[falcaineer]

8 minutes ago, imcrazy said:

Thanks for the input guys... I am going to go after it with a white pad and finishing polish in a test section and see how it goes.... No doubt I will put some sealant on, probably LPS but, maybe just H20 G&G I am going to give that to my Dad to use instead of the Turtle Wax ICE he's used over the years...

 

Good luck!

 

For the longest protection, apply PS. It offers at least 6 months protection. HGG can work on its own, but wont5 last as long. After PS, use the HGG every 4 washes or so to maintain. Then, but another bottle of HGG for your dad! Win, win.

[imcrazy]

18 minutes ago, falcaineer said:

 

Good luck!

 

For the longest protection, apply PS. It offers at least 6 months protection. HGG can work on its own, but wont5 last as long. After PS, use the HGG every 4 washes or so to maintain. Then, but another bottle of HGG for your dad! Win, win.

I have used both... My Dad likes to use the touch less car wash so I am not sure it's worth the effort of LPS  because the harsh chemicals will eat the LPS off so quickly... W/that said I use the touch less every week during the winter but, I apply LPS to my truck once the weather breaks in the spring then I try to hand wash at least 3 out of the 4 weeks of the month...