Rail Dust on White Vehicle

[MitchPI]

I have a white GMC pickup purchased last September and almost immediately noticed little rust spots.  Combed the forums and determined it was rail dust.  Used iron remover at the time and it appeared to do an amazing job.  BecAuse it was brand new I did not clay.   Since then I have waxed with Americana and spray wax.  Washed it today and noticed spots of rail dust again.  Where did I go wrong?   Do I need to do iron remover, clay and sealer?  Truck this expensive shouldn’t be this much work.  Ha. 

[Nickfire20]

I definitely hear ya about the price,  but these things are transported via trains.  They then sit on the lot for who knows how long etc...

 

But most if not all new cars do in fact need chemical and mechanical decontamination.  Mechanical being a clay bar.

 

I got a new Tahoe Premier RST in Sept of 18 and we just got my wife a 2020 Honda mini van last night,  these are the steps I take...

foam cannon

strip wash

iron remover

clay

compound

polish

prep spray

ceramic coating

boost

and since the new leather coating is now available 

a full leather, dash, plastic cleaning inside

then coating everything also using fabric protector on carpets.

I figuring a good 20hrs of getting it ready before she can drive it.

 

On both of the aforementioned vehicles i told the salesman no washing or detailing,  and went as far as, “if you guys slip up, deal is off”.  We both laugh, but I am serious!

 

 

Edit- don’t forget the Brilliant Glaze on the interior windshield, it was actually the very first thing, I did this morning!

 

 

Also, iron removal and clay bar process on a daily driver should be done 2-4 times a year, Adam recently mentioned In a video, the timing to be every time you change your oil.

Edited June 17, 2020 by Nickfire20

[falcaineer]

You didn't do anything wrong. It's not just rail dust. Could be industrial fallout, chemicals from the road, etc. Protection you apply won't necessarily stop the specs, but it will offer a sacrificial layer for them before they hit the paint.

 

I have yet to find a better combo on white than Paint Sealant and H2O Guard and Gloss, it simply works wonders and makes the white really pop. Prep is still vital, including iron recon, clay and paint correction - true shine comes from proper paint correction, the rest is enhancement and protection. Once you prep, apply the Paint Sealant, then use HGG once a month or every 3-4 washes. 

[RayS]

Like Nick and Chris, I recently did a 2020 Mazda with about 100 miles on it and went through the process of Strip Wash, Iron Remover and Clay and it was never washed by the dealer or owner.  I knew when I got my truck 3 years ago, it was would have rail dust since it was most certainly transported by rail from Wentzville, MO to South Carolina, but I really didn't expect as much on Mazda - it sure was there.

 

On the non-ceramic vehicles, I use iron remover in the spring right after pollen season since the vehicles are a mess anyway.  According to the usage of the vehicle, they'll get iron remover again in the fall.  For the ceramic vehicles, I have done two of them after about 6 months of being coated and didn't have much show up.  The next two vehicles will be close to a year and I'll use iron remover on them later this summer.  One is a garage queen and the other is parked outside, but isn't driven much.  

[MitchPI]

Thanks all.  So if I am understanding, i should do a strip wash, iron remover, clay, paint sealant and HGG. I have everything from Adams with the exception of the clay.  Would i necessarily need Paint correction in that process for a 6 mo old vehicle?  Its a tri-coat if that matters.  Paint looks good except for those spots I noticed on this last wash.  Anything necessary between clay and paint sealant?   Thanks again.  

[falcaineer]

That's a good process order, yes. As for paint correction, only you can be the judge. You don't "have to," but just know most new cars come with DISs (Dealer Installed Swirls), so there may be some. But if you're comfortable with the car as-is, go for it!

 

Between clay and paint sealant, remove the clay residue with something like Surface Prep or 50/50 IPA (if you can find it). Paint Sealant needs a bare surface to bond properly.