HFX Detailing

September 8, 2014

looks awesome! I cringed a little when the clay bar bottle was on the paint ... lol

great job and pictures.

BTW, what seat is that? that the cyclo is sitting on

Aaron@P2PQD · September 5, 2014

I applaud you for using original Keystone boxes! We were Keith Stone (keystone light) drinkers in college ourselves, a few 30 racks of stones were so smooth!

Never tried the light ones. I have keystone and keystone ice. I enjoy them. They are made by the same brewery as coors. as far as I am aware. The box works PERFECT. When I first saw the inserts, I thought to myself, there is NO way those will fit my bottles. Little did I know...

I have to drive pretty far to get keystone, so I only get it when I am already driving through the area. A 24 here is about $42-$50 and a 24 of keystone is $30. So I paid $30 for 24 beer AND an amazing container for my bottles (car cleaning supplies, not beer )

Awesome job Jerome, I learned alot from this. Thanks for the detailed write up

That is what I like to hear! thanks

Michael@Adams · September 5, 2014

If you've ever used Adam's towels, you wouldn't want to use your Costco towels for delicate work again

This!!

My buddies thought all towels were the same. I handed them the double-soft from Adams and it blew their mind.

September 5, 2014

Never have I ever read such an excellent write-up on the interior detailing. Good job!

How many times can you wash one of the swabs before it wears out?

Thank-you,

I would say using them wears them out more than washing them. I wash them carefully by hand. I spray a little bit of microfiber rejuvenation on them, and if need be All Purpose Cleaner. I VERY gently rub them with my fingers while rinsing.

I have only ever ruined one and it was using too much pressure while the swab was too wet. I was using the tip of the swab and moved side to side, the plastic stick ripped through the swab. I can still use it though, for vents (it is still in tack, there is just a hole, the plastic is not exposed).

September 5, 2014

Does anyone know why some of the images rotate? I notice this in some of my other post. They are the way they should be on my computer, but after uploading them, some of the images are rotated.

Aaron@P2PQD · September 5, 2014

Summary

Hey folks. I have done a few write-ups now and I try to emphasize a certain technique or portion of a detail with each post. Today's winner is the scary and avoided interior detail. I enjoy the interior as you can get intimate with the vehicle and release dirt that has been hidden in crevices for years.

This post will be a bit different than the rest of mine. Instead of having money shots at the end, I will have a picture intensive how-to so you get a better idea for what I did. I will warn you, just because this is my technique does not make it correct or safe . . . please do your research and ask questions if there is something that sticks out to you.

Enough chit-chat, lets get down and dirty!

The Products

Total Interior Detailer: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-924-adams-total-interior-detailer.aspx

Adams Detailing Swabs: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-925-adams-interior-detailing-swabs-10-pack.aspx

Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-35-adams-carpet-upholstery-cleaner.aspx

Glass Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-54-adams-glass-cleaner.aspx

Utility Towels: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-579-adams-edgeless-microfiber-utility-towels.aspx

Carpet and Upholstry Brush: URL Not found (older product)

Single Soft Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-588-adams-single-soft-towel-is-back.aspx

Buttery Wax: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-992-adams-buttery-wax-new-formula.aspx

Hex Applicator (Yellow): URL Not Found (older product)

Waterless Wash and Waterless Wash Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-1071-new-adams-waterless-wash-towel-combo.aspx

Ridgid Wet/Dry Vac

An empty 24 (see pics below)

The Process

To kick things off, here is how I transport my cleaning supplies. It is an empty 24 case of beer that has sockets for each beer. It just so happens that they fit my adams bottles perfectly, as you will see below:

This makes carrying the products very easy. I use to just throw them in my wash bucket, or a big bin. This way they do not move around, and I can still manage them easily.

I started with the Door Jambs. They have not been done in awhile, but were not too bad. I used Waterless Wash and a Waterless Wash Towel to clean this portion.

I sprayed a bit of product on the dirt and gently wiped the dirt away.

As you can see, the towel got very dirty. This meant I had to flip the towel often to get a clean spot. You do not want to scratch the door jambs, polishing them would be a pain!

Next, I used Buttery Wax to give the door jambs some extra protection and to make cleaning easier next time.

The result was going from this:

To this:

Along with going from this:

To this:

The shine achieved was satisfactory:

Once the door jambs were all done, I vacuumed the car. I took the mats out to make sure the dirt underneath them was done. I used my Ridgid Vacuum which has a mat option as you can see below:

While using a brush, be careful around embroidery and edges, the thread can pull easily.

Here is a 50-50 (close enough) shot of the mat after a quick vacuum.

To make sure I got out the dirt, I used the Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner and Brush. I sprayed a bit on the carpet and scrubbed.

After, I used a Utility Towel to blot the mat to get rid of the dirt and excess cleaner.

The result was going from this:

To this:

Once all the mats were taking care of, I moved onto the interior floor. I used a smaller hose piece to get all of the corners and sides of the car.

The same attachment I used for the crevices of the seats. This vacuum has enough power to handle this no problem.

I also used a softer brush for the seats themselves. You want to be careful because you do not want to pull up the threads. I use little to no force and let the vacuum do its job.

There was a nice salt stain on the rear floor that I tackled.

I sprayed some Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner on the spot and agitated it with my finger.

I then used a Utility Towel to pick up any dirt and excess cleaner.

Here is a shot of the left stain being removed, while the right stain was untouched.

For the right stain, I used the Carpet Brush to agitate it (you can choose either, or)

Finally, we have a stain free rug!

Next I get into the nitty-gritty. Using a Detailing Swap I get into crevices. Some people argue to use cotton swabs as they are cheaper. Personally, after trying a Detailing Swab, I will not go back. They don't leave cotton behind, they are durable, and re-usable. I typically use two swabs. One with some Total Interior Detailer on it, the other to pick up excess Detailer.

You will notice one swab is dirtier than the other. The first one goes in first, the second makes sure all the dirt was taken care of.

This lets me easily get to areas not reachable before. Taken my cup holder from this:

To this:

I like to hunt for crevices not usually cleaned. Such as this hood release latch. Here is the before:

And after:

I also find the swabs useful for controls. Make sure you do not have a lot of product when you clean these areas, you do not want liquid in the buttons!

This looks easier:

Than this:

When using the Total Interior Detailer on the dash and plastics, I spray some on a Utility Towel and then wipe away. Here is a before and after of the plastic around the door area:

From this:

To this:

If you cannot tell, the Total Interior Detailer not only provides UV protection, but brings a nice deep color back to the interior.

Here is a 50-50 area where there was Interior Detailer, and no Interior Detailer:

And, the same spot fully wiped down:

Some spots, just Total Interior Detailer is not enough. You will need to use Leather and Interior Cleaner, followed by the Total Interior Detailer.

Here is a spot where salt splashed up (from cleaning the carpet) and dried on the plastic:

After spraying the area with some Leather and Interior Cleaner, and a fresh Utility Towel, the Interior Detailer was used (with a separate towel). Here was the end result:

Using the same method, I cleaned this badly scuffed and dirty side step. Here is the before:

And After:

That is all for now! Here are some (few) after shots:

The rear door:

Shifter:

Driver Console:

Dash:

Like I said earlier, this was not perfect. You can still see some dirt here, but it cleaned up well for the most part (this is a decision you must make, how clean to go. You can spend 1 hour, or 10...but what benefit does it have to you, and the customer).

Passenger Side:

Passenger Seat:

Passenger Looking In:

Bonus: Pro Tip #1

Always point the blower of the vacuum away from the vehicle

Bonus: Pro Tip #2

Turn dome lights off when the doors are open (I have drained batteries before by not doing this)

Bonus: Pro Tip #3

When doing windows, if you are having issues reaching tights areas, wrap the Window Microfiber around your hand like so:

This allows for you to have stability, and get tight areas. I use my finger tips (or finger nails) to get into tight areas along the edge, and corners.My thumb keeps the clothe wrapped up tightly.

Bonus: Pro Tip #4

Always clean your vacuum after. This helps prevent build-up, reduce risk of blowing dirt, and keeps maintenance down. If you ever waited to wash a towel and regretting not doing it right away...this is the same thing.

Here is the inside of my vacuum after one session (it was FULLY cleaned before hand):

Here is what a BRAND NEW filter looked like, after one session:

That's it for now! Questions? Comments?

September 3, 2014

Great write up! Looks brand new

Thanks!

The customer drives A LOT. He is due for a maintenance wash already

September 3, 2014

I run race pads on my car year round and they generate dust like you wouldn't believe. If I don;'t scrub my tires with APC and the tire brush every wash, they turn brown in no time.

But I do the same thing on the other vehicles, and dress with SVRT afterwards. Makes them look so much better

I love VRT. Have you tried the new Tire Shine yet?

How long does VRT last for you? If I apply it on a tire that was cleaned REALLY well I get an easy 4 weeks out of it. I am still testing the durability of tire shine.

Great write-up - I particularly like the tip about wrapping the glass towel around your hand to get the inside of the windshield.

Thanks!

Thanks. I find the glass towels hard to keep steady. wrapping it keeps it stable for me.Allows you to use your finger tips to get corners easily too

September 3, 2014

i dont think the blow setting of a shop vac should ever be used on a car. if the filter is not perfectly clean a bunch of dust will go on it.

I used a shop vac once as soon as I turned it on, the blower (I was vacuuming) blew so much dust 10 feet away, the car got filthy and I had to wash it again. Never again.

If you want a shop vac, for vacuuming, the Ridgid is really good. http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-14-gal-6-0-Peak-High-Performance-Wet-Dry-Vacuum-with-Free-Auto-Detail-Kit-WD1451/203820088

September 2, 2014

dat cloud! looks good

September 2, 2014

thanks guys

August 31, 2014

Judge it by the product needed (amount) and time. I shoot for $40-$50 an hour.

August 30, 2014

1 week in about now. about 700 km (350 miles?), ran, dirt, etc, and the tires still shine

August 30, 2014

Looks good...nice job!

Thanks!

Excellent write-up and very nice results Jerome.

Why do you use a MF towel for cleaning the wheels rather than a dedicated wheel brush? I have always used a brush but I may just try a towel next time. Your results shows that it does work well.

I did not have my brush on me. I sometimes finish up using a microfiber to make sure I got everything.

August 30, 2014

Still, a job well done!

Thank you

CTFocusST · August 30, 2014

Hey guys. This here is a 2012 Red Lancer, GT model. It has seen roughly 70,000 KM's and was improperly washed via Dish Soap, bad techniques, and Dealer Washes. The swirl marks were pretty bad and the customer wanted the car looking new again. I used a big range of products to achieve great results. You will see the list of products below, followed by a detailed step-by-step guide on what I did. Lastly I will post some money-shots.

The Products*

Flex Polisher - Could not locate on website

2 step polishing system - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-738-adams-basic-7-foam-pad-machine-polishing-kit.aspx

Double Soft MF - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-494-adams-double-soft-microfiber-towel.aspx

2 Bucket kit - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-523-adams-complete-2-bucket-wash-kit.aspx

Glaze and Americana Wax - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-566-adams-premium-shine-kit.aspx

Super V.R.T - Could not locate on website

Machine Super Sealant - Could not locate on website

All Purpose Cleaner (APC) - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-121-adams-all-purpose-cleaner.aspx

Wheel Brush - Could not locate on website

Clay and Detail Spray - http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-1005-new-adams-made-in-the-usa-detailing-clay-combo.aspx

*note: to make things simpler, if products I used are available in a bundle, I bundled them

The Process

Inspection

I always inspect a vehicle before starting. I like to take lots of pictures so there is:

1) Proof of pre existing damage

2) I know what I need to clean and fix

The car was not too bad from far as you can see below. However, once you get close you notice all the defects. In the light you can see some serious swirls built up too.

The car pre-wash looks decent here:

Once you get closer, you see the dirt:

At the right angles and light, you can see the damage (swirls):

The wash - Wheels

I always start with the wheels. You do not want to wash them with the rest of the car as mixing dirty wheel water is a no-no. Take a look below as this was the water after one tire.

These tires were pretty dull looking:

I sprayed the tires down with water to loosen up the dirt. I then sprayed All Purpose Cleaner on the tires, using the foam setting. I find the foam setting clings to the tires better and you can literally see the dirt lifting up and drip off. Below, you will see what the All Purpose Cleaner is lifting up after agitating with a Wheel Brush

After agitating the wheel I spray the dirt off. I spray it good and aim the spray along the rim where it meets the tire as the dirt and APC can really get stuck in there good. I usually repeat this process until you no longer get dirt lifting up but the cleaner is whitish.

Next I used a Micro Fiber towel with some soapy water (Adams Shampoo) to clean the rims. The rims cleaned easily, so not much effort was required.

The wash - Two-bucket method

I always use a two bucket method when washing a vehicle. This involves having two buckets, both with grit guards. You take one bucket and fill it with soap and water, this is your wash bucket. The next one you fill with just water, this is your rinse bucket.

While washing the vehicle you would dip your wash pad in the wash bucket and scrub on the grit guard. This will release dirt from the pad and trap it at the bottom of the bucket. Once you use the pad on the vehicle, you dip it in the rinse bucket, scrubbing again. This will make sure most of the contaminants and dirt you picked up will be in a separate bucket. This will reduce the chances of damaging the paint and causing swirls.

You want to wash from top down. Stop at the bottom 1/3 and do this last. Use your second pad for it. The reason for this is the bottom 1/3 is the dirtiest and you really want to prevent cross-contamination as much as possible. Depending on the dirt, you may need to change your water or go rinse your pad multiple times per panel. On a decent car, such as this one, I usually go to the bucket once per panel.

The wash - drying and sheeting

To rinse the soap off, I simply hose it down. I like to spray it good to get rid of all the water. After, I take the spray off of the hose and slowly work the hose from side-to-side while moving down the vehicle. This allows the water to sheet off and take a lot of the water with it. Then, you can blot-dry or dry the whole vehicle.

I typically just dry the whole vehicle if it is not clean enough to sheet properly. In order to sheet good, the vehicle needs to have little embedded dirt (claying removes this) and/or a good wax.

To get rid of the rest of the water (we don't want water spots!) I spray crevices with compressed air. Otherwise, you might have water drip down later on a dry spot you are about to work on.

Lastly, I spray a bit of Detail Spray and gently wipe with a Great White Drying Towel. I check the towel frequently to make sure no dirt was missed during the was and ended up on the towel. I fold as needed (due to dirt, or being too wet). One towel is enough for me to dry a whole truck with lots more to give. I never have needed to wring out the towel.

The Wash - clay

Once the vehicle is washed, rinsed, and dried I clay it. Depending on the conditions, I sometimes clay while washing...but that is something for another write-up. Since this car did not have too bad of a contamination on the paint, the clay process was simple and fast.

Working in small sections, I take about 1/3 of a piece of clay and knead it until it is a good size for me. If you drop the clay on the ground, throw it out (this is why we break the clay up instead of using one big chunk). You want to spray a small section with detail spray and gently rub with the clay up-down, side-to-side and I even do circles. I find tough spots that won't come off in one direction, will in another. Some spots can be stubborn and just need more rubbing. I never use a lot of pressure. If you think you need more pressure, try rubbing more first. If that does not work, re-work the clay and rub some more.

Once I am done my section, I clean it up with a microfiber towel. If the car was pretty bad, some people wash the car after . . . but this vehicle did not need it.

Swirl Huntin' - A tale of the flex

I use a flex polisher. For this vehicle I used mostly the white pad with fine finishing polisher. You need to try a small spot to test and see what the vehicle needs. You do not want to go aggressive at first, so try the fine polish and if you need more, move up to the Paint Correcting Polish. I used a White Pad with the Finishing Polish, and Orange Pad with the Paint Correcting Polish. You also need to get a feel for what speed to use.

Below is the test spot I had on the hood, marked off with tape.

For the hood, I needed to use the full 2 step process (Orange Pad with Paint Correcting Polish, then White pad with Finishing Polish. However, I found the rest of the car only needed the single step (White pad with Finishing Polish). The Mitsubishi has some pretty soft paint, but it seemed the hood was harder.

To start, I prime the pad with a product making an X. Once the product is worked into the pad, you only need a few drops of product or even just a shot of Detail Spray to keep it going. You will also want to use the Pad Cleaning Brush every panel, or even in-between the same panel. Anytime I would see dust build up I would give a quick shot of Detail Spray and the problem was usually solved. If it was not, I used the cleaning brush over a garbage can on the lowest speed to clean it. You will see a ton of dust release when you do this.

While working the Flex Polisher I move slowly and in a smooth motion. If it is your first time, the polisher likes to run away on you if you do not hold it right. It takes some getting use to. You will also want to mark on your pad with marker a line. This line you should see spinning. If it is not spinning, you are using too much pressure.

After polishing a section, I wipe the residue away with my Double Soft Microfiber.

You can see below the side skirt. It was seriously scratched, probably due to rocks kicking up from the tires.

After a quick polish, the skirt came out looking extremely wet and smooth:

You can see some nice swirls on the trunk here:

And after a quick polish, again, only using the White Pad with Paint Finishing Polish:

I was pretty happy with how the car turned out after polishing it fully. Below you can see one of many scratched 95+% removed:

Post-Polish finishing touches

Once the car was fully polished it was time to do some finishing touches. Firstly, I applied Machine Super Sealant which takes 12+ hours to cure. So once I applied it, I applied Super V.R.T to the tires and headed home to finish up the next day. Below are the tires, remember how dull they looked before?

Post-Polish Sealant and Waxing

Once the Sealant cured, I removed it with a Microfiber. I then took my Americana Wax for added protection and got to work. Using small amounts I gently waxed the vehicle. It cures quick and usually by the time I waxed the next panel, it was time to remove the previous panel. After my wax I applied a layer of Glaze using the same method as the Americana. Lastly, I put another coat of wax to seal in the glaze for that ultimate shine and protection (note: Glaze offers no protection, just the OMG look).

V.R.T is for more than tires

What some people are not aware of is V.R.T can be used on plastics and trim. Here is a 50/50 shot of the front grill with V.R.T applied to it. It looks a LOT better with the V.R.T and it brings the plastic back to life. No more dullness here!

Money-Shots

It is the time!! Here is what you have all been waiting for. The end result:

Amazing shine, depth, and clarity:

Can you spot the Adams products in the reflection?

I love this shot. It looks like the road goes on forever through the car.

Look at those clouds in the hood!

That's one hot ride

No more dull front-end.

Chrome-like finish: Achieved!

Most of the swirls are gone. I did not get 100% (you almost never can). But, this was a huge difference.

You can see my car in this reflection

She's all done! Time to pack up and go home:

Bonus shot: My Arsenal

Questions? Comments? Don't be shy, I won't bite!

August 29, 2014

Mine is clear. Just shake it. It is recommended you shake the bottles before use. I sometimes shake in between use.

If my glaze sits for awhile, the top part is clear and the bottom is white. A good shake mixes it together again.

August 28, 2014

Lol SYMAWD that is dedication. My buddy just got a new vehicle. They didn't even remove then plastic wrap properly. There was bits and pieces stuck in the crevices. I thought it was chipped paint at first.

August 27, 2014

Point is to provoke a discussion on how everyone feels about complimentary car washes at the dealership, knowing what "experts" they are when it comes to caring for paint.

I always explicitly tell them to NOT wash it. I'm sure I'm not alone in that?

gotcha! I was not sure with just the pictures.

I definitely do not let the dealer touch my car. I put a big sign saying "do not wash" and get the service people to put it on the work order. I also bring it there spotless. If I was really paranoid I would put a strip of dirt on a spot and if its gone I know they cleaned it.

August 27, 2014

Context? Point? Comments? Questions?

August 25, 2014

great write up! looks good. i bet your mom is happy

August 25, 2014

out of curiosity, why did you want to trade them?

August 25, 2014

I have seen attachments around such as for carpets, and seats. The seat one intrigues me....could make life easier.

August 25, 2014

When on desktop mode, it works. when I go back to mobile mode, I get the glitches. Weird.

August 24, 2014

Great question gapwedge. I have machine super sealant which takes twelve hours to cure. The customer also did not care for even wax. Glaze would have been a waste, especially for the color and because it adds no protection.

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