mtnbiker326

Hello Adam's forum...

I have a question.

What are the reasons why you would choose the wool mitt over a knobby hand mitt.  (for the sole purpose of washing the top (and only the top) 1/2 of the car?

I am referencing Adam's wool mitt against any knobby mitt, like the one pictured below.

I know the quality will be better, but as far as application goes for cleaning the top 1/2 of the car, what are the real differences or advantages of the wool over the knobby?

The problem with the .5 liter ones is that they cost almost the same. When you look at $14 or $15 for the .5 and $17 for the 1 liter, the bigger bottle sure does seem like a better idea.

When you put it that way, my logic... Just went out the window    

But I also agree with Mitch below...  

Since these are 33 oz bottles could you not just add 16 oz in them. I have my 33 oz ones filled up all the way and I must admit they are a little heavy since these are well constructed. I checked one that had about 14 oz and one that had 31 ounces and you could tell the difference.

If it is 2-3 bucks more expensive... just buy the bigger ones and fill it up half way.  No worries.  

Unless.... you can't fit the larger bottle in the smaller areas of engine bays or wheel wells.  In that case, there is still a case for the .5 liter units here.  Each has its own job.

Why have a carpet brush and a leather/interior brush.  Two different brushes (granted different fibers and softness) but that is it.  Just like the size of these two bottles.  One for each type of job.

I personally am ordering a few to try and am still keeping my close to 10 empty 16oz bottles I bought from Adams as backups and for those hard to reach areas.  (and for house work)  

I would also recommend (if possible) for them to be treated with microfiber revitalizer (interior of glove for human sweat for spot treatment) and then LIC and LC.  

If you are thinking about it, I would clean and clay the glass.  Then apply a thin layer of quick sealant as it is optically clear.    If you want more shine, I would us glaze as well on top of quick sealant.  (or on a lower protection side, you can just use glass cleaner and glass sealant) 

To me... Yes.

Right.  

That mix up happens often, but both can useful in detailing!!

 

And as you noticed, the forum will always make the letters "I P A" into IPA.

I just thought it was funny that I P A is used here to mean Alcohol (of the Isopropyl type) vs drinkable type.  LOL  

The formula hasn't changed, and as mentioned, the opaque look is from the bottling process that we use now.  It uses a bubbler, which is submerged in the tank that keeps it constantly aerated while bottling, making for a more uniform product...all the way down to the bottle of the barrel.

 

The picture on the website is a little misleading, as far as the color.  I think it's time to re-shoot that picture!

I would agree with the updating of the picture.

I have to say that yes, even in a gallon purchased less than a month ago, it is still opaque.  Works 110% though    No worries.

Happy Birthday Nick!!!  Gotta love another March birthday detailer  

36oz bottles were discontinued due to lack of sales yet you're going with a 1 liter sprayer over offer the half liter one. Don't understand the logic behind the decision but wondering if your also going to at least offer the half liter bottles at a latter date.

The only logical answer I can see on this one is that Adam's marketing needed to test the system first with a few sprayers to change out and deliver a solution for those complaining about the standard issue 16oz bottles now (according to Adam on video).  Using the 36oz bottles NOW helps boost Gallon sales in the near future as well as support the community for the need of a sprayer that can put more product down quicker and is more durable.  Thus the 33oz/1liter sprayer to hold more product (cause you are going to use more, hypothetically).

That being said, I am sure the 1/2 liter is not too far off from being offered.  If I were marketing, I would offer it.  However, trial runs of a new product for actual supply chain, sales and fusibility need to be worked out and checked before more products should be introduced.  In other words, if these sell WELL (or at least meet the goals intended for this product), you can bet your bottom dollar that the 1/2 liter will be available VERY soon.  

It should not take any pressure, more like wiping off DS.  The alcohol should dissolve the existing protection.  You can go over it a few times to be sure.  You could use Mineral Spirits too, but be sure it is marked 'odorless' and the "Percent Volatile"  is 100%.  And if it has not already been said, do this a panel at a time.

 

From a trusted source on a different detailing forum:

"If using IPA to remove previously applied wax or paint sealants, simply mist some of the IPA/Water onto the area to be checked and then spread around using a clean microfiber towel folded 4-ways. Work the product gently over the paint and then turn to a dry side and wipe till dry."

Thank you Michael for all the information.  This is much appreciated.  

Also, on a funny note, IP A = beer too 

No grinding please!   

Spray the panel, wipe off.  Repeat on each panel.

Right... I was being sarcastic... I just wanted to know what the pressure needs to be to take the layers off (without grinding anything into paint or pressing too hard).  Lets say trying to rub dried Americana on the paint, off as ... REALLY hard rubbing.  Do I need to rub that hard?

1.  Clean vehicle with two bucket wash.

2.  Dry vehicle.

3.  Claybar vehicle using DS.

4.  Remove clay residue with clean Microfiber towel.

5.  Locate IPA and another clean, plush MF towel.

6.  Spritz panel (being cautious of trim and plastics) with either 70% or 70% IPA diluted 1:1 with water.

7.  Use clean MF towel to remove what you just sprayed.

 

That *should* leave your paint nice and stripped for polishing/protecting.

 

Shine on man!

Chris,

With Step 7, do I need to "grind" the Alcohol into the layers of protection (ex. Full Face Melter) in order to get all 3 layers up at once?  If not, do I need to go over each panel a few times with the Alcohol and microfiber in order to slowly remove each layer one at a time?

Thanks for the helpful process list above

I hate to bring this thread back from the dead... BUT... What are the steps for a proper Isopropyl Alcohol "stripwash"?

Hey Chris, I'll do you one better, and I think this is within the forum rules:

 

If anyone wants to let about 1-2 oz at most go, I can do a side to side comparison showing the difference between Adam's Leather Conditioner and the 1Z Lederpledge that I currently use.

 

-I will deep clean the seats first with plastic/interior cleaner

-I will use a clean but same style applicator for each application to avoid cross contaminating

-I will rub in and wipe down any residues with a clean MF towel

 

Now I do have to say, its hard to do a leather comparison to say "one leather conditioner does all" because some conditioners are made for coated leather, and some excel in uncoated leather.  Correct me if I'm wrong but is Camaro/Corvette leather Napa (uncoated?).  The product I'm going to do the comparison with, specifically is made for coated leather and says on the bottle it is not for use with uncoated leather.

 

Someone will have to let me know about that, I'm sure Adam's Conditioner is a multi-use product, but it is worth noting that some conditioners might work better on certain leathers than others.

 

I will say the pluses about the product I'm using on my leather seats is quite different in a few ways than Adam's conditioner, all in ways which I prefer, but some here may not, and that is ok, that is why we discuss.

 

The product I'm using:

-Finishes down perfectly matte, advertised as "factory new finish", without any shine whatsoever when dry and rubbed in (Adam's tends to be more of a satin matte, I prefer the seats to be protected with no shine, just refreshed color and supple to touch)

-Has a neutral leather cream scent, the bottle actually says it has a mild lavender scent (Adam's = new leather smell)

-Is made for coated leather (Not Napa, etc, like I mentioned above, Adam's does seem to be multi-surface which is a plus)

-I do not use this on my door plastics, dash, etc.  I use an Interior Cockpit spray from the same brand which has the sun protectants I want and is similar to TID, but I have no need to condition my door/dash plastics, again, because I prefer to have zero shine in the interior (my interior mantra is "Clean, with no aftertaste)

 

I just did my wife's seats yesterday with the product I use, if anyone wants to donate about 1-2 oz of product so I can do a side by side and snap some pics please feel free to let me know.

 

 

And not to get off on a tangent but if anyone has any questions about my interior regimen please be respectful to the team and send it via PM, I'm all about supporting Adam's here and as Adam himself said, even he has products from other brands on his shelf.  I've said it once and I've said it again, some non-Adams things I use follow the saying "if its not broke dont fix it", and although 70% of my shelf is Adam's products, I don't use everything nor do I have a need to use everything made.  Brilliant Glaze is a prime example, its not for me but I support the team that makes it, appreciate the product for what it is, and I love hearing people's positive impressions when using it.

Any update?

You might find it helpful to see what Adam's Suggests for each product on the website. Click on the product and scroll down.

Thank you everyone for your feedback and suggestions. Here is the information that was requested:

 

• My wife's car is a 2013 Kia Optima SXL and my car is a 2005 Nissan Altima
• I will only be detailing our cars with the exception of my grandparents occasionally and will not be going into business doing this. This is just a hobby/routine maintenance for our personally owned vehicles
• Budget... I do not really have one. I would prefer to have a machine that will last for a while and handle the work I intend to use it for. I would also prefer not to spend more than what is necessary.
• All shampoos, polishes, waxes, etc etc will be Adam's products

Ultimately, I am looking for a polisher that can handle one difficult job one time and then routine maintenance after the hard job is over. It is also important to me that the machine be somewhat user friendly. 

 

Again, thank you all for the feedback and guidance...

The point some have made on this subject, it sounds like... is ... yes the Cyclo is the tool you need.

I will however state... that being a little bit more budget friendly, the PC is there.

What I mean by this is...  RIGHT NOW, if on a budget, you will be happy saving money and picking up the PC.  HOWEVER it will take longer (more passes and more product (novice learning) typically) to do that "one difficult job" and then routine maintenance.

After you do those jobs and find that you still need to do some heavier correcting over your Nissan, the Cyclo will be what you will want to step up to.  

So, if you are buying for longevity reasons (with more budget in mind), I would definitely go with the Cyclo and not look back.  That way you have a single, all-around great tool that will serve you for years and Years and YEARS.  

I also vote Cyclo.  

My first polisher usage was a buddies Cyclo and it did WONDERS.  Easy to use, learn, support, repair, etc.  How can you not go with a product that allows for so much versatility as well as peace of mind (and USA made).  You can use foam pads on your wife's car and then microfiber on your car.  The PC is a good first tool as well, but it doesn't cut as much as the Cyclo.  If you were just doing your wife's car (like others have said) get the PC only.  If you are buying ONE tool for ALL uses, Cyclo is the WAY TO GO.    The cyclo cuts into my BMW's HARD clear nicely with the microfiber and works on my jeep's clear coat failure with ease (with the foam pads).  Best start up tool and it will still allow you to "grow into it" more than the PC would.

I gave the Jeeps a quick wash - not all I wanted to get done today but it'll do. 

 

jeeps.jpg

More time for more jeep cleaning will come

This is the number on the cap that I have. NAS834-117  But it does not show much in a search for the exact one. There is also a 14X stamped under the number and from what I could find out it is a "T" series cap and this might be the one but I am not completely sure.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/11130272;jsessionid=JzZTTvKf5KTCy2bt4QRnzcQnwnGxtf5cPnHv9FvSkT1f56kJJs2s!-1179070593!637356616?isPunchout=false

 

More info: https://www.imperialsupplies.com/item/0010360

 

http://www.1stchoiceindustrial.com/detail.cfm?item=CAPLUG%20%2314X%20RED

Thank you Ron for the info.

SWEET

The Model number for the 16-32oz Caplug is NAS834-75 10   (looks like a T-series plug)

Can anyone send me the model number for the Gallon plugs?  I would like to purchase more of them as all of my gallons came with the aluminum breathable seals?

Most body shops have NO IDEA what correcting paint is.  They assume it's sanding and repainting.  lol  Most body shops put swirls in paint.  

Before I had a buddy recommend Adam's, I was washing (single bucket with used foam and wash rags), claying and then applying cheap wax with a rotary buffer from the 70's or 80's with the "tie on" pads.

This was all done on cars I previously owned and thank God I don't anymore for fear of ALL the damage "I" induced into the paint of those vehicles.

After countless hours of watching Adam's vol 7 and now 8 videos on youtube and here on the site, I was able to start "getting my hands dirty" with my buddy's collection and saw how much better cleaning my car can be with the right tools.

I will admit that my friend could have steered me to Mequ... or Zan... or (insert blank paint protection company) and I might have felt the same way.  But after researching some options, I will agree with those above that Adam's products are just K.I.S.S..  I don't have to worry about having every single product or multiple products to mix or measure out.  I also don't have to use 3 or 4 different products for the exact same step within a process.

I am not saying that any of the above brands are bad.  The contrary actually.  But for now, to get a swirl/haze free finish and protecting it "properly" with only a handful of products is awesome.  Also a real wallet saver as well.   (until you get hooked and then it doesn't anymore... BUT you will be one Happy person)

Pop a couple ounces of APC in your soap bucket so it strips previous product off the paint and you are ready for fresh protection

Sorry.  I didn't define that term.  Thank you Ricky for explaining it.

I need to ask some follow-on questions.  I have been doing loads of like 5-7 towels at a time (all I have been using per week) and not thought about just getting a hamper for them specifically...

I have enough towels to get through a couple washes and waxes no problem.

My questions are thus...  

1)  When I wash them, should I separate the "utility towels" from the glass cleaning, waterless, double softs and other towels?

2)  Should I separate the glass towels from the double softs or any other towels (starting to get rolled edges (no damage))?

3)  Can you wash "utility" microfiber towels (Adam's or local car store or whosever microfiber standard cloths) with any of Adam's other towels?

Thanks in advance.  Just don't want to ruin any towels in the process.

Glad the A+ customer support came through to SAVE THE DAY AGAIN!!!!!

Way to Go Adam's Team!!!