AvsBest

I see just about everyone is swearing by this product on their wheels. What about using it on the paint as that's what I bought it for?

As he/she said Next time, you should complete all the work you need on one pad and one product. And then follow up the next day with whatever is next. What I mean is: Use the orange product today and complete your paint correction today then the next day you can follow up with the white polish, then the day after with the sealant. Long story short, don't do Orange stuff, white stuff on one panel then orange stuff, white stuff on next panel. Try doing orange stuff on a panel, orange stuff next panel and so on. Or do what most of us do, stack 2-3 sets of pads at your place Couldn't find my words today, hope it makes sense.

It was just wrong to leave my cart full without pressing the button for so long. So I went with my first idea and the recommendations of the 2 comments I got and tried the quick sealant. Will see how that works.

That's the way I was leaning also, I'll wait for few more thoughts before ordering.

1) Quick Sealant 2) Paint Sealant 3) Buttery Wax Here is my situation: I completely fixed a panel of my vehicle with a machine and Adam's product. Some areas are hard to get to with the machine like the pillar, and other areas. I have the revive polish to apply by hand in those areas to fix it but I don't have anything to protect it. I was gonna go with the Paint sealant but I still have a lot of machine super sealant so I don't really feel like paying $30 for a product I already have. I know the formula has changed but still. Suggestions?

The promo code is LABOR14, don't need the email now! 15% off storewide and free shipping above $95. Time for polishers and/or gallons

If you forget the formula it's written on the back of the bottle/gallon

Question about the invisible undercariage spray. It appears to be working great on plastic wheel wells which most vehicles have. My charger has a weird material in there which is close to upholstery/carpet type. Not sure why as the only thing it's good at is picking up leaves and dirt. I wish it was plastic. Has anyone ever tried the product on that type of weird surface? Is it gonna be as good?

I finally got my behind off the couch and tried what I was suggested in this post: Only worked on 1 panel today and used alcohol/water to strip it. 2 bucket washed the car this afternoon (Adam's shampoo, foam gun, grit guard buckets, adam's great white towel, caterpillar type wash mitt) p.s. waiting for an adam's wash mitt to become available... Relaxed for a few hours than used the following on the driver side rear door only: Adam's Waterless wash (remove dust for a 100% clean area), alcohol/water mix to strip, Adam's Clay bar, Adam's detail spray. Roughly 3-4 passes of orange Swirl and Haze remover (older version) on top half of the door. Using 5" Hex pads with PC7424XP 1 pass of Fine machine polish (older version as well) Repeat on the bottom half of the door another 3 passes or so. I kept looking after a pass but it wasn't enough so I kept going until I was satisfied. I'd like to thank the scratch that I named Bertha, she made me swear like a sailor and made me a better polisher in the process. Pictures are not bad, gives a good idea. You may have to crank the brightness of your device and use full screen to have a better look. As much as I love that paint, it is an absolute pain to take good swirls pic given there is so much metallic in it.

Bump to an adam's rep... What should I use with my old green Severe swirls remover given that you don't have the required pads anymore? Would yellow hex pad work?

Now that the wool wash mitt is gone, is there any plans of having another mitt available in a near future? I tried the wash pad and it is the only product I don't like: I gave it away. Some of us really like to have our hands in a mitt other than holding a pad.

No need to use Revive after the paint finishing polishing, you go right to your sealant after. It wouldn't hurt the paint but you would be wasting product and effort. I personally only use Revive and other hand application products on the areas harder to reach with the machine. I don't "mix" hand and machine on the same area, I don't like double-working.

If the paint is up to your satisfaction, no need to correct it. Just use fine machine polish or hand equivalent and a sealant

As funny as it sounds, my 2 favorite products are the Glass cleaner and the great white drying towel

I'd say clean the pad as good as you can, then re-wash the vehicle and re-clay like the other ones said If for some reason the black stuff remains on the pad, I'd toss it and get another one

I use hex logix pads which were available at Adam's awhile ago. Might need to get a yellow pad or maybe just a 2nd orange pad as I only have one and it's a pain sometimes.

That was a question too I guess, would I gain anything by using the SSR with the orange pad?

Thanks for that. What I meant by "industry code" was in reality the big 3 except mcguiars (lake country, hexlogix, adam's) I am using a PC and 5 inch pads. There is just that one hairline scratch that I am sure I can get out with a little bit heavier product. I only have the orange/white and black pads and want another one to use the SSR with. I can get 98% of my car right with the orange swirl remover

I'm sure I should but I don't see why I should pay $40 worth of new products when I already have more than 3/4 of my old product left in the bottles. I'd rather buy a $10 pad instead and finish my current product. I just need to figure which pad I should use with the SSR

I am still using the older generation products with the green severe swirl remover (SSR), swirl remover, fine polish and machine sealant as I haven't gotten through my bottles yet. I changed my backing plate size so I need another green pad. By studying the industry color code for the pads, it seems like a yellow pad would be more appropriate for the green SSR as the yellow pad has a heavier cut and the SSR is a heavier compound. Thoughts?

Actually my drug store only had 70% IPA so I went with that and distilled water. Will do a 50/50 mix in a 12oz bottle. Should work? Thanks for the input

40%, distiller water and 50/50 mix it is then

I don't know, the regular rubbing alcohol stuff that you use when you hurt yourself...

When you say "mixture", what is it? 50/50 water/IPA? In a 12 oz bottle?

Glad my plan will work. When you say to use rubbing alcohol to strip, how do you do that? I was going to use either dawn soap or the recommended Adam's all purpose cleaner diluted in your regular wash bucket method. Do you apply alcohol directly on a microfiber and just wipe the panel after you washed it using your regular method? I'd be scared of ruining your microfiber by doing that.