TheWolf

Yes and yes. Adam's Detail Spray can be used with other clay bars, and yes you should order the Visco Clay kit. I think you will find that the Visco Clay works better.

You still need to follow the preparation steps, even if they are new. They likely have contaminates on the surfaces from manufacturing, shipping, handling, etc. Use the Coating Prep to get them cleaned up before applying the coating. I would also suggest inspecting them carefully for any scratches or swirls that should be fixed prior to prep and coating.

A previous attempt to install the Tapatalk plugin was not successful. With the recent update to the current forum software version, I was able to get the Tapatalk plugin installed. However, I could not get the site registered on Tapatalk, since there was already an old Owner account for this forum. Apparently the forum used to be available on Tapatalk a long time ago. My assumption is that the old Owner account is under the email address of a former employee, so we will need to contact Tapatalk to get the Owner account information updated, in order to get the site registered. Thanks for your patience while we get this figured out.

Seems to be some confusion on this topic: I will get more clarification on this and report back.

There is no silica in the Wash & Wax, just synthetic polymers.

Grape soda

Let's consolidate the discussion in one thread: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/34444-introducing-adams-ceramic-paste-wax/

The mystery is solved: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/34444-introducing-adams-ceramic-paste-wax/

http://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-ceramic-paste-wax.html

http://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-ceramic-paste-wax.html

Since the H20 Guard & Gloss is water-activated, it is importation to get the product cleaned out of the towels immediately after you are done. Do not let the product sit in the towels and cure, or it will build up in the fibers of the towel, which eventually causes them to stop absorbing. My process is to rinse them out in the sink really good with warm water, to get most of the H2O Guard & Gloss out, then spray all sides of the towel with full-strength Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener, and really work the towel in your hands to get the detergent into the fibers. Then I rinse them out, and repeat with the Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener. On the final rinse, I will just half rinse the towels, leaving some Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener in the towel, not a lot, just a little. I then hang the towels to dry. Once dry, I store them in a sealed tote until I get enough for a load in the washing machine. I wash these towels separately, and use Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener in the washing machine on hot water, with an extra rinse. One time, I just threw them into a bucket with a few ounces of Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener, and let them soak overnight, When I rinsed them the next morning, I could tell that the H2O Guard & Gloss had cured in the fibers of the towel, and could not be rinsed out.

Finally got a nice day to wash yesterday. Went from snow/rain most of the week to sunny and 55F yesterday. It was very nice to be out washing in a t-shirt. Washed a couple months of winter crud off of the Explorer, and gave it an application of H2O Guard & Gloss. Also washed the Raptor while the wife did the interior of her Explorer. Today I applied Ceramic Boost to the Raptor and did the interior. Vacuum, windows, wipe-down with damp cloth, then a generous application of Leather Conditioner to all the interior plastic and leather surfaces. Finished with Tire Shine. You know its been a good weekend when the detailing area looks like this:

For washing with a towel, I would use either a Borderless Grey Edgeless Towel or a Single Soft Microfiber Towel. To reduce the weight, partially wring the towel out over the bucket. Like Rich suggested, you may also try the Car Wash Wedge. It is light-weight and easy to hold onto. The only downside is that is does not work very good to get into the tighter areas, like under door handles, or behind the bumper, etc. Another light-weight option is the Premium Microfiber Wash Sponge. It is essentially a Single Soft towel with a sponge inside. It is easy to hang into, and can also be squished into tighter areas. This is my preferred wash media for lower rockers and bumpers.

Bye-bye Kwazar... I have been using a Kwazar sprayer with foaming tip for the last 3 or so years. I mainly use it as a pre-soak for bugs. It makes runny foam, somewhat similar to what a Foam Gun would make. When I tried using it for All Purpose Cleaner or Tire & Rubber Cleaner, it went through too much product way too fast. Hello iK Foam Sprayer... This little foaming sprayer makes nice, dry foam, very similar to a Foam Cannon. I used the purple tip for this first test, and the foam seem just right, not too dry, not too wet. To compare the two, I did a side-by-side test on the grill. I put 4oz of the regular blue Car Wash Shampoo in each, with the rest of the bottle filled with cold water. Shook them real good, them pumped them up. The iK takes more pumps to get it to full pressure (about 25 pumps compared to 15 pumps on the Kwazar). I sprayed the two sides at the same time. What a difference in the foam! You can see that the iK makes thicker foam that clings longer. The Kwazar foam is wetter and runs off fast. The iK does not go through product as fast as the Kwazar. After testing it a few times on both the Raptor and the Explorer, the Kwazar was almost empty, and the iK was still half full. I plan to pick up another iK Foam Sprayer to use with Tire & Rubber Cleaner, and maybe another for All Purpose Cleaner.

Rinseless Wash does not foam. I use a pre-soak for bugs with Car Wash Shampoo and Rinseless Wash in a foaming sprayer, and adding too much RW will really reduce the suds of the CWS to almost nothing. Same is true for using RW with CWS in the Foam Cannon.

Oz gives good advice on the two methods most commonly used. For either method, the key is to make sure that you have pre-rinsed or rinsed prior to using the wash pad. You would not want to just foam it up and start washing with the pad, since you want to blast off as much dirt and other crud before you even touch the paint. The method that I use involves using the Foam Cannon as a replacement to the suds bucket. To be an effective replacement to the suds bucket, I use the Foam Cannon to apply shampoo to just a few panels, then use the wash media and rinsing the media in the Rinse Bucket, then move to the next area on the vehicle, foam it up, wash with media, rinse the media, and so forth. I found that this method puts the most suds on the paint, which is safer, compared to bringing the suds from the bucket to the vehicle. Then like Oz stated, if the vehicle is especially dirty, I will pre-foam it, allowing it to dwell and soften the crud, then give it a good rinse with the pressure washer, then start washing by using the method above. Note that I do not foam the entire vehicle, since most of the foam will run off before you get a chance to the use the wash media. Foaming just a few panels at a time allows you to use the wash media with the most suds on the paint.

Welcome to the forum! You're in the right place to learn how to take excellent care of your new ride!

Looks good! I've done a few pairs of leather shoes.

While you're at Costco, pick up the Adam's Polishes Car Care Wash Bucket Kit.

Sub'd for pics!

Pre-treating with APC will help, but it would still not be as good as using Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener.

While that laundry detergent may work OK on drying towels, it is not strong enough to completely remove waxes, sealants or some other chemicals from your towels. Even Detail Spray on the drying towels may not get completely cleaned out of the towels. While the towels may appear clean after the wash, the chemicals not removed will build up deep in the fibers of the towels, which reduces their performance and will eventually ruin them. To keep your towels in good shape, and make your investment last as long as possible, use Microfiber Revitalizer & Brightener.

It works well, just a little messy to apply. Here's a write-up I did over on the Ford Raptor Forum: http://www.fordraptorforum.com/f195/amsoil-mphd-heavy-duty-metal-protector-amh-17731/index7.html#post627136

Since there is no protection on the undercarriage, there is no issue with using the Strip Wash as a cleaner. Just be careful not to get in on the exterior of the vehicle, since it will strip off your wax or sealant. If you want to add protection to the undercarriage, then an undercoating product (ie Amsoil HDMP or Fluid Film) would be used. In & Out Spray is not going to do much for protecting the underside.

Here is a long thread on the f150forum: https://www.f150forum.com/f38/exploding-rear-window-145329/index79/