TheWolf

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I still think its just as likely to have contaminates knocked loose with the Clay Mitt, and then reside on the surface in the DS or RW residue. It may even be more likely, since the mitt is not sticky like clay, and particles would not stick to or get embedded in the mitt like they do in real clay.

I must politely disagree with the above replies. When claying, contaminates get knocked loose and reside in the residue, which is why you should NEVER hand or machine polish right over the residue, or apply wax or sealant right over the residue. Machine polishing over the clay residue is the worst, since any contaminates in the residue get picked up in the pads and worked against the paint by the machine. Also, the clay residue clogs up the pads making them less effective and increasing the time required for polishing. And it does not matter that it has been done and people do it, it just does not make any sense. Even the time savings justification that it "skips a step not removing the residue" does not make sense, since the time lost to clogged-up pads far exceeds the minimal time it takes to remove the residue before polishing. My preferred method of removing claying residue is by washing. I just make the claying step part of the washing process. After wasing and rinsing, when the paint is clean, I move straight to claying instead of drying. After claying, make another rinse to remove the residue, then dry before moving to the polishing step.

This issue with the brush handles is being addressed. For the Barrel Brushes that are currently in stock, the warehouse is gluing the handles on. For the next shipment of brushes, the handles will be plastic welded on by the manufacturer. Everyone at HQ is aware that this was a failure, and are working to correct it. Fortunately, this issue was limited to about the first 50 brushes that were shipped. If you received a brush that has a handle that spins off, please contact Customer Service at orders@adamspolishes.com to get a replacement.

Agreed. The handles should have been glued on by the manufacturer. That being said, gluing the handles myself seemed like the simpler solution, rather than contacting Customer Service and getting a replacement, only for it to have the same problem. I will contact HQ to see if this issue has, or will be, addressed.

The handles spinning off is certainly annoying. I tried gluing the handles on with Shoe Goo, but it did not work. I just cleaned out all the Shoe Goo and glued the handles on with a two-part plastics epoxy. Hopefully the epoxy works. I do like the bendable head for getting behind wheel spokes, but with the spinning handle it was about worthless.

Your name is Adam too? 🤣

Merged.

The power rating is 2000W at full speed, which would require a 20A circuit. The unit has been tested on 15A circuits and has run fine, but can also trip the circuit at full speed. This also depends on what other electrical loads are on the circuit. If you only have one 15A circuit available, and the garage lights or other loads are also on this circuit, then you would likley have an issue. If it is not possible to have a larger 20A circuit, or you have issues with tripping a 15A circuit, then you would have to run the blower a little slower to not draw as much power. Being able to dial down the speed, and power draw, on the Air Cannon is an advantage over other blowers that only have one speed and required a 20A circuit.

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I sent this feedback to the Marketing Team. Thank you.

Clean with shampoo or Waterless Wash. Heavier cleaning can be done with Revive Polish. For protection, it depends on whether the vinyl is gloss or matte. Gloss vinyl can be waxed or sealant. For matte vinyl, do not use wax or Paint Sealant, as they will leave a residue behind in the porous matte vinyl. I prefer H2O Guard & Gloss on matte vinyl. Check out this post: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27009-adamized-the-raptor/?do=findComment&comment=483723

Cinco de Nachos!

Yes, I have the DS Bottle. I will take these:

I have these available:

I will double check tonight and let you know. I think I still have all those except the Black Bucket. I will take just about any sticker on trade, except for the standard logo stickers, since I already have a stack of them.

Maybe he will let you add this one to the set.

Only 10 left! https://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-trunk-mystery-box.html

Checked airfare to down-under so I can buy a new cordless polisher. 😁 Its a short-throw DA with a selector switch to put in gear-driven mode. Makita has some serious cordless tools with power equal to and even exceeding corded models. I have already switched all my outdoor power equipment to Makita cordless and love not having the noise and fumes of gas-powered equipment. So I am already stocked with batteries for when this hits the US. It will be interesting to see if the gear-driven mode will correct more like a long-throw, even though the Makita has a shorter-throw.

Welcome to the forum Craig!

I think he meant that he edited his post because the response was already covered in this thread. Check out these two threads for aniline leather:

@DanielChaves Now that I looked at the photos on the computer and see more detail, it looks to me like house paint. On the fender flare, the way that the stuff is kinda swirly from where the wind whipped it around, is not how mud or even concrete splatters. If claying does not remove it from the fender flare, I would try some Krud Kutter Latex Paint Remover, which you can get at Home Depot. Krud Kutter makes many different cleaning products, so make sure its the Latex Paint Remover product. I can't tell if the wheel well liner is textured plastic, felt, or has been sprayed with bedliner. Either way, if it is paint that got splattered, then its going to be tough to remove. I would try the Krud Kutter and a stiff scrub brush.

I would disagree with the above statement. A dual-action machine like the Porter-Cable should absolutely be able to remove fine scratches, and will also remove major scratches. It just would take a little more time than a forced-rotation dual action polisher like the Flex 3401 or Rupes Mille. The advantage to those forced-rotation machines is that they will correct faster, and not stall on curves and contours. The disadvantage to the forced-rotation machines is they take more skill to operate. Since the scratch in the photo has not improved with the polishing, and it is a fine scratch since it does not catch on a fingernail, I wonder if the scratch is below the clear coat. @joshp14 Do you own this car, or is it just a car you are working on? Perhaps some portion of it had been repainted, and the clear coat was blended over this scratch?

Very nice!

If it does not come off with your fingernail, and no detailing products have helped, it may be concrete (or grout) and not mud. This can happen when drive through construction zones, or from just running over a small spill from a mix truck. Check out this thread and try the concrete removal product in a small test area in the wheel well.