FrozenWS6

Did you only use Ceramic Boost and not Ceramic Coating? I've always wondered if you could use Ceramic Boost by itself, since it's cheaper haha

It also doesn't give the dirt and water repellency that the coating does.

I find W&W get the bugs off my paint easier. Also makes my trim look cleaner.

I'm using it every wash. I've topped it with Gloss and Guard every few months and not had any issues.

I've used strip wash on a pretty dirty car before a full correction and didn't notice anything left.

Here it is. From page 3.

Yes, you can still use Detail Spray as a drying aid on paint that is coated.   The small amount of wax in the Detail Spray may lessen the effect of the water-repelling properties of the ceramic coating, but it would be very minor.  You could then use Ceramic Boost once a month to restore the water-repelling properties of the ceramic coating.

Good point.

But I'm pretty sure I still read early in this thread that you don't want to use any detail spray or HG&G even after it's applied because it will reduce the hydrophobic properties of the coating. Which is the best part of the coating. Nothing sticks to it.

Our cars up here get to dirty to do anything less then a full wash with wash and wax.

It says here do not use any drying aid like detailer or HG&G.

Nice. Sounds like a beast.

If it's not on the whole car I'd just buff off the panels that have issues and reapply the coating. That's what I had to do on a customer car once.

That won't hurt anything at all.

I would just recommend you have a few blue applicator blocks. Make sure you use a new side of the block each day on each panel.

Because the side you used already will have dried coating on it and may scratch the paint.

Thanks I'm very happy how both of these and the Trailblazer SS turned out.

Thanks. My customer is so happy with her BMW and how shiny it is and easy to clean.

If you did it the the grill, bumper, and hood the bugs will easily spray and wash right off. It would help for sure.

I've been thinking about doing that with my DD because I can't have it down for a weekend to do the whole thing at once. So I would be doing it in stages.

The only hard part is having to remember what is coated and what isn't. I have a fleet of our own. So as of right now only the smaller summer cars are getting coated. The SUVs may get coated one day but for now get Gloss and Guard.

So I think the best option for you is to coat the wife's ride so you can quickly and easily clean it, then continue your normal routine on your ride so you can have the best of both worlds.

I had a black Mercedes that I believe had very soft paint.

I stored the car for a customer and over the winter I fully buffed it out. Then when spring came we took it out in the sun and I could still see swirl marks. That looked like they were from my buffing.

So I buffed it again. Another 8 hours of buffing. Then as I was applying the coating the seam of the little blue block scratched the clear coat again. So I had to rebuff that spot and recoat the whole hood (which is where it scratched).

I still never got the paint as good as I know it could have been because it had soft clearcoat.

You may be in a similar situation. After I buffed it the first time it looked good in the shop. I left it bare naked paint because he was going to decide if he wanted me to use a sealer or coating. Then when spring came it looked like it needed more buffing. Nothing touched the car while it sat. I was the only one in my shop, so I know no one caused anything.

The issue was not the coating but the clearcoat on the car.

I would agree with Mariner on this one.

I've coated 5 cars with no issues and these are daily drivers. I've 2 step and one step buffed.

The last one I did, I waterless washed, 1 step buffed, coating prep, coated and boosted with no issues at all.

I've had a couple cars coated for 4 months that live outside.

I just did a FJ Cruiser with rubber floors. I used Tire and Rubber Cleaner with a scrub brush then wiped with a microfiber towel with very good results.

Galaxy, I've coated 5 cars now.

The most cars I've done with one bottle is 3. A 280 Mercedes, Pontiac Solstice, and a Trailblazer SS. It has been going pretty far.

As far as how often to boost. I'm only going to do it every six months. I'm doing my maintenance with full washes with wash and wax.

Also got the first one I did back in for a quick Wash and Wax wash. Nothing is sticking to the paint/coating. Dirt, bugs, sticky leave pods from the sprouting trees don't even really stick just spray right off easily.

These are both after shots. I forgot to get a before shot since I was limited on time with it.

This is the he 5th car I've coated in the last 6 months.

This one was very well taken care of. Which saved me a lot of time.

Did a waterless wash and strip. One step buffed with orange Paint Correcting Polish. Then coating prep and coating, topped with Boost.

In all took about 10-12 hours so not too bad.

Before: had some block heater cord scratches to clean up.

During:

After:

Also don't overspray any glass. It's difficult to remove.

I personally preferred Gloss and Guard over the Boost. I didn't get and longer lasting results or better gloss on my silver truck from it. With G&G I could use it on everything including the glass which works great with rain.

True. Adams has done an awesome job updating a lot of the waxes and exterior products lately, but they could use some updates for some of the interior products too.

Another way to find a leak in a windshield, front or rear is to use a foaming windshield cleaner and blow compressed air along seams and edges of the windshield.

Unfortunately this doesn't always work.

At my glass shop I had a car one time that was leaking and both the air nozzle with glass cleaner and a high pressure washer spray down didn't find the leak. So I poured a cup of water over the top of the glass and it quickly found the leak an rushed right in.

The cup of water just flows the water similar to what it does if it's raining out which also allows the water to pool up under the moldings. Because sometimes the hole is small and it takes the pooling of the water to give it time to seep through the hole or the spot the primer is losing its bond with the glass.

You have to look at it as an investment into your car or truck. I've put it on 4 and doing my 5th car this weekend and it protects the paint amazingly.

Also saves you time washing since nothing so far is really sticking to it and maintains the new look of the car which helps in resale or collector value depending on what vehicle it is.

I've had quite a few with sides curling in. I believe it's from the heat when running the heater on the floor or defrost and floor settings.

I've never had that with any of my Husky liners either.

Thanks. I'll have to let them know. Since that's pretty quick to show signs of wear and discoloration that fast.

That's cool your getting yours replaced.

All the cleaners I have and I hadn't thought of regular dish soap. I'll do that next time.

Glad they gave you a better answer then I got.

Thanks for the update.

Yeah, I'm not buying the silicon based cleaners excuse. I think that's a scare tactic to make you buy their product.

If it was from the cleaner why isn't there more then just the lower flat part fading.