wely324

A long handle thin wheel whoolie would be nice to get behind the brake calipers to get to the back edge of the wheel... I have the the Adam's angled wheel whoolie, unfortunately it is my least favorite wheel whoolie as I don't like the angle it has. It has become a specialty brush for certain wheels that benefit from the angle.

The glaze you can buff away once it hazes up, and you can apply the next product right away for the most part. I normally give it 20-30 minutes anyways as it makes me stare at the paint for a while. The Paint Sealant can be buffed away once hazed up completely, about 5-10 minutes, and then can be topped 1 hour later with another layer or another product.

Thanks guys, gonna try and get a few more photos today of the shine. Bottle of LPS hiding in this photo.

Debadged my car and after polishing I decided on a 3 step Adam's shine and protection with Glaze, then Liquid Paint Sealant, and Americana wax to top it off. Applying the Glaze first in my opinion looks best and the difference in durability I don't notice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC3XPuFip5M

awesome. more details please.

Nice truck and nice choice of polisher. I just picked up the Rupes 15 mkii and love it... my tip, from having a black car, is to touch the paint as minimal as possible in the wash and drying process and always keep checking your towels and wash pads for dirt etc. that could marr the paint.

H2O G&G maintained with W&W should provide plenty of protection. G&G is great sealant by it self and I recently applied it as the only protection to my sisters GMC Acadia Denali in a white metallic. So far it hasn't been washed once and parks outside and still looks great a month later. If I wash it again I'll try the Wash and Wax and see how well it stays clean afterwards.

Although the Strip Wash won't strip the coating it is not PH neutral, which most coatings do not like. It could provide a more deep cleaning but will probably also affect how water reacts with it, most likely just temporary. Having the layer of H2OGG could be the difference as well. In my experience H2OGG beads very well, and the wash and wax not as much. Yesterday I was able to try the new Wash and Wax on my coated car and I'm very happy with the results, but I have yet to see how water beads up on it. Made the drying easier with the leaf blower and it gave the paint a bit of pop as well.

Plus, it is a meaningless claim as it will still get rock chips. Thanks Dylan for sharing some knowledge.

In my experience with a glass coating, which ranges from 3-5um thickness on a paint gauge, is that it helps reduce or minimize the depth of swirl marks etc. If your wash or drying process was to swirl or marr a non-coated car it will probably do the same to a coating. The nice thing about a coating, especially a thick one, is that it preserves the factory paint and clear coat so if you were to marr it, you could polish it out and reapply protection with possibly removing very little of the clear coat. That is how I see it atleast

My sister's vehicle I washed a little over a month ago and applied h20 GG as it's only protection and it was beading nicely this morning. I did a good strip wash and clay prior to applying it though. My fiance's car was washed with wash and wax last week, curious if that affects beading that you normally would see with H2OGG or LPS. If i can get a chance to see it before she leaves for work the next rainy day I'll check out the beads.

delete

nice rides, that Mustang looks great... I'm also a track guy but on two wheels. I can't help much with the rubber though, I tend to use APC an scrub away at it. On my racebike, I don't worry about marring the paint, can't spend too much time or money on something that slides across the ground on the paint a few times a year.

When you guys come to the forum, first open the chat room and there is a button that will open it in a separate tab so you can chat and browse the forum at the same time.

just a heads up, selling chemical products is not allowed on the forum

didn't know about it, now that i do I'll definitely be stopping in there.

But for foam pads detail spray is used to prime, correct? I have even seen them use detail spray mid polishing to increase work time in their videos.

Never got to try the red Car Shampoo... my first purchase was shortly after they discontinued the red formula soap, not very throwback, except I have plenty of bottles with the older label design.

looking for the Colorado Adam's flag sticker, i have a white die cut up for trade so would be looking for 2-3 in trade for the die cut decal.

will have to try the toothbrush, or pencil eraser...

I see you are from Florida, your hose water shouldn't be that cold at this time of the year, but who knows... I generally fill my wash bucket halfway, with warm/hot water from the sink, then add soap and agitate with power washer till it is just shy of being full with 2 wash pads.

I have always found warm water, not cold or hot, can be the difference in suds.Plus agitating with a powerful stream of water or power washer has worked well for me lately. It should be a nice consistent lather of suds on your wash pad.

i used 2 descent squirts about 2oz at most i bet with 4 gallons of water, had great suds allowing the wash pad to glide nicely.

I actually did the same thing today, after washing the wheels with DWC, and after I washed the car I then used Wash and wax on the face of the wheels with a clean brush. This might be a nice way to replace LPS, although it probably won't last nearly as long, it will be a lot easier to apply protection.