stripesace

Applicators I usually cut the top off of a ziplock so it can't get sealed, and label that and put the applicator in that. Towels... yeah... Thats a tough one. I have a hard time picking out what towels I used for H2O vs other washed towels.

I have properly, maybe even excessively foamed a Toyota Highlander and had about 1/4 of the container remaining. It was almost enough to throw some foam on the horizontal surfaces all the way around before the rinse. I don't think it needs to be any bigger.

Just be sure you're expectations for the foam is realistic. You're not going to get "Snow" foam out of a foam gun. You need a foam cannon for that. I use two pumps from my gallon jug per container or one REALLY big squeeze of a 16oz bottle. Basically about 2oz.

Stacked on top of each other to show difference in thickness. (About 2x) Grey on top of double soft. The Grey has a longer nap, but isn't as concentrated. Then again we're talking about a towel that is probably 400 GSM to something that is 1000+GSM Folded the two towels in half and put the folded edges right next to each other for you. unintended reflection shot on that first one .... just goes to show what Gloss & Guard can do!

I bought the two pack when I bought my foam gun for this very reason. I don't have the orange or blue edgeless towels, but judging by pictures, it looks like they're more similar to those. I can go take a picture for you. My observations? Application was a little streakier, and buffing wasn't as smooth as it was with double soft. The grey towels aren't absorbent as the double softs, so I was having to ring out the grey towels A LOT more. I would probably have a minimum of 2 wet and 2 dry towels to do a larger vehicle.

If you can stay on top of it with the H2O G&G, you're probably fine to forgo the strip wash and LPS until you do your full detail. I've been keeping my wife's highlander topped off with H2O G&G until I can get it polished. I didn't want to put LPS on something I knew I'd be polishing in 6 months.

Did you by chance also get some buttery wax in your mystery box?

BTW, you know your meeting tip is drawing too little solution when your foam wants to try and bead from last week's H20 Gloss & Guard application...

Yes, still do the two bucket wash! And yes buy and enjoy the foam gun The quick disconnect from the gun to the nozzle is awesome. I I have a quick disconnect to my hose on it as well. So i slap that on, do my wheels, rinse the car, attach foam gun, foam car, drop the gun, and rinse. Tonight I tried something, and didn't really like the way it went but had seen this discussed on another forum. After a lot of driving back and forth and my car sitting in a hospital parking garage all week, I was in a hurry and needed it to get it clean so I foamed the car, and then using a wet wash pad shot foam from the gun onto the pad, and was very conservative about long i used the pad before rinsing in a rinse bucket. I don't know that I'll ever do that again... I might have been better off to rinse, foam the car, let it dwell and rinse I think.

Thats about how it goes. The power to my neighborhood comes in via overhead lines, so a bad windy day can take our power down every so often. We lived here for 4 months and had 4 power outages lasting 2 hours or more. So I installed an automatic whole home generator. In the last year and 3 months, the longest power outage we've had is 37 minutes. It's run more on its weekly run test than it has carrying the load of the house......

Top it with VRT and it's even more like Wow!

Let's just all be honest.. These are quality products. At a fair price given as much as possible is MiUSA, but the customer service... It's untouchable. Alone it's meh, but all together, it's the rare trifecta in today's world.

Adam in the LPS video uses the flex on speed 2 to apply the sealant.

I conditioned any and every surface that would take it.

The conditioner has cleaning properties included. I would only do cleaner for obvious spots. If you stay on top of it with conditioner it'll probably stay clean enough for you. L&IC can and should be used diluted 1:1 first, before moving to full strength. I've always used it full strength. I conditioned my leather about 2 months ago and give it a TID wipe down every time I detail our cars. The UV protection helps keep the conditioner from drying out I find.

I can't imagine using 1:16 as clay lube. That would be expensive with all the clay that would shoot off the car and land on the ground.

I tell myself I won't get political on here and you go and make jokes.... I dunno that I've ever seen one of those on a corevette. Usually a Prius.

Clay lube rinseless I thought was 1:32 or 1:64? That stuff is slick. I use 1:16 as a waterless.

Welcome Joey... I'm guaging some interest in a Texas Meet Up. Drop on over and cast a vote.

with H2O G&G on top of it, i'm not even sure how to tell when its breaking down.... I'm trying to hold off putting another coat until I get my polishers.

There ya go! BTW - Dan, Matt, this should be a sticky.

Yep. I got a brand new bottle that just came in Saturday that is already separated. Adam gave a great write up of how he handles his H2O bottles on his own that should be a sticky on its own honestly. Let me find it...

http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/how-ups-screwed-a-popular-youtube-car-guy-out-of-10-00-1738255686 Not sure if anyone has seen this, but wow. I can't believe UPS has let this drag on like this.

When I did the sealant routine on my car, I did Wheels/Tires Wash Clay Strip Wash Dry Sealant Let it sit over night.... Buffed off. Drove it for a week Wheels/Tires Wash H20 G&G

I agree... I also like labels to match too. The fact some of my label don't match (have the Crome text vs. white text) doesn't bother me TOOO much, but it kind of does This is the guy who bought a second bottle of APC so my "diluted" bottle has the Adam's label + my modification on it.