LSX Maestro

I didn't think about PSing on my wheels but I do use H2O on them and they're come clean with an old microfiber and a little waterless. Mine are Fuel Mavericks, pretty similar to the ones you listed. Your bigger issue is going to be the areas behind the wheels that will get SHOWERED with anything and everything on the road. *Facepalm* lol. Paint Sealant and H2O are your friends!

Sweet so far. I'll have to bring in my detailing stuff as it's in the 30s now.

Trying to get some ideas for my detailing collection of towels, bottles, gallons, polishers etc. to keep them organized and clean. I have a large garage but not much room to dedicate to storage. Not sure if putting everything in rubber tubs is for me although that would be pretty cost effective. Anyways, let’s see your detailing setup!

I'd imagine it's an APC with a bit of protect/shine product (Kind of like VRT)? Probably nothing crazy that you should be worried about but I could be wrong. When in doubt, "Test in inconspicuous area."

Well I guess you can say he wasn't kidding about there being lots of paint!

How about using the Glass Cleaner over the top of windows sealed with H2O GG? Is it gentle enough to leave the protection of the H2O GG there or no? Does Glass Boost "boost" the protection of the H2O GG if I applied it over the top?

I received the products in the title. My truck is currently coated in LPS and then topped with H2O GG regularly, the last coating of H2O GG hasn't even seen the road yet (Has been sitting in the garage). My windows had accumulated some garage dust so I thought I'd test out glass cleaner (Mind you, LPS + H2O GG is on my windows). The Glass Cleaner seemed to want to strip off the Sealants as the towel went from slipping across the surface to skidding and grabbing across the surface. The very official, Fingertip-touch-test agreed with the towel that the glass wasn't anywhere near as slick as it was before. So I applied the Glass Boost. That brought back the slickness if not more slickness than before (H2O GG). I haven't had it out in the rain to test the hydrophobic qualities. How long will Glass Boost last on its own? If it doesn't provide superior qualities to the H2O GG process then I'll probably not really use them as I can currently wash + rinse + dry with H2O on all surfaces and know everything is slick and protected (And looks good). Maybe I could just skip the Glass Cleaner usage and just use Glass Boost over the top of the H2O GG that's on the windows?

Absolutely! I recommend using H2O G&G regularly (Winter or not) to maintain the LPS and add extra shine and protection. I think the Wax may be kind of unnecessary, especially if it's Buttery, in which case I wouldn't use it at all. But if it's a Paste wax then you could put it down on top or under the H2O GG.

Hey Chris, I was worried before about my process because on one of my vehicles, I clayed with Detail Spray (And the water that was still on the paint from rinsing) and then rinsed and then LPSed. I think DS has a small amount of wax in it. After doing more research it seemed like that DS could have left a weak layer of wax and the PS wasn't on the paints surface. You think my application will last though?

That does look very good for old Jeep paint! Nice job.

Nice save! Love the HBM on ZL1s. Might be selling my 5th for a 6th next year.

Well, per reading a post by Dan (I believe) about this before, Coating Prep has more lubricity due to other added ingredients to lift and remove contaminates without scratching or just pushing them around. I guess if your surface is completely clean this shouldn't matter, but considering that dust and lint from a towel even can micro-swirl if roughed around, then I would say Coating Pre is safer. Iso/Water is what I use still, but if you have access to CP then I'd use it in place of Iso/Water. (Hey I'm just a noob though)

Ceramic Boost has no real advantage over H2O GG for ME because I get to apply H2O GG to every surface on the car, when it's wet or dry, and not worry about it. Ceramic Boost is like a Detail Spray on mega Steroids but as noted is really only for your paint; you'll have to purchase another product like glass sealant to cover windows. I have read that Ceramic Boost, being silica, likes to play with other Silica products, AKA it doesn't really go well with real Wax. So since Paint Sealant will last longer than Ceramic Boost, you'd want to have your paint stripped of all coatings, apply PS and then use Ceramic Boost as a topper OR H2O GG. I think the CB may leave your paint feeling a little bit more slick, but I don't want for any more slickness that my LPS + H2O GG already gives me; plus CB is harder to apply, can't work on glass, and is more expensive. I kind of view it as "Why mess with a good thing" in this instance; LPS + H2O GG is a long time proven concept that lots of Adam's users use. I'm sure CB will do it just fine too. Pick one and go with it; try both. But if you're using H2O GG, don't feel like you're missing out and should switch to CB.

Absolutely. I believe it's safer than rubbing alcohol/water and will do the job nicely.

I have several classic cars; I wash them just like I do my normal cars save for a few extra precautions. Don't spray water in cracks and crevices if you can avoid it Don't spray water near the convertible top/window gaps/door lines etc. Be extra careful when washing near little pieces of chrome trim or ornaments that can move/break/fall off Use Rinseless when you can, but if the car is too dirty than you'll want a bucket wash Don't use a pressure washer (That's IMO) Car is gorgeous, one of my favorite classics, may have to restore one myself some day.

*drools* Wow! A+

Ditto to what Shane said (as usual). You could also replace Wax with a spray sealant like H2O Guard & Gloss which becomes a booster/sacrificial layer for the Liquid Paint Sealant, but is much easier to apply than a Paste wax or liquid wax while also lasting quite a bit longer (Save for Americana or Patriots which lasts about the same).

My paint work would be baked. But I think even baked paint work requires a curing process before the paint gets as hard as it’ll ever be?

You'll want to Strip wash your car to get the paint naked. Also, if it has been driven a bit, a decontamination with Clay might be a good idea. After that/if you do that, you'll want to apply Liquid Paint Sealant for 4-6 month protection. Apply H2O GG afterwards and every few washes to maintain shine and protection. Wax, especially a weak wax like Buttery Wax, is unnecessary, however you may apply it if you want for more shine. Buttery lasts about 2 weeks I'd say, and if you apply your H2O GG over the top of old Buttery (IF that sequence lined up) then your H2O GG will come off as soon as the Wax does which may be in the next few days. Generally, I say Paint Sealant and H2O GG is all you need and is very straight forward. Save the waxing for the show cars IMO but if you want to do it, you can. Just know what you're doing. Detail spray doesn't have any layering properties like Sealant or Wax, it's a spray and wipe detail-in-a-bottle that works on any surface for a bit of extra shine and cleaning. It also has hundreds of other uses, but for what you're talking about, you can apply Detail spray whenever you want a little therapy or extra shine or cleaning light dust/fingerprints/smears etc.

This has come up quite a bit of late. I’m second guessing my LPS job too; I never got to see what just LPS did as I H2O GGed right after LPS and then reapply it ever other week or so. I figure that if the LPS did/does have an issue, the HGG will work as protection and beading agent. I would try stripping it off, rinsing, and wiping down each panel with Alcohol/water or Adam’s coating prep and applying LPS immediately over the paint. Truly naked and clean paint will want to grab at your finger pads and will feel clean but almost sticky in a way as it’s willling to accept whatever comes in contact with (which if you don’t apply anything to naked paint, is exactly what it does). I went right from my strip wash to LPS and I wish I had wiped down with rubbing alchohol just for peace of mind.

Glad this got brought up...I'm going to be having some scratches and dents fixed on my truck (Going to have almost every body panel painted) and I was planning on correcting and sealing after (Within a week to two) but I guess that would not be possible. I don't know if I can live with my paint being naked for 1-3 months in Michigan winter weather!

Have APC, have Towels, have MF Brightner & Revitalizer. I guess I couldn't even remember all that I had in my original post.

I already have a clay kit as well as a PC and access to other DAs from the shop...Not sure if I need to buy a SK though a complete Pad+Polish kit may be on order. Lol and I found that there's really only one form of detailing...All in LOL. At first I was like, maybe proper washing things...Then ok maybe I'll try a sealant...Then...then then etc.

Title states my question; I currently have: - [x] Adam’s Detail Spray - [x] Adam’s Waterless Wash - [x] Adam’s Liquid Paint Sealant - [x] Adam’s H2O Guard and Gloss - [x] Adam’s Car Wash Shampoo - [x] Adam’s VRT - [x] Adam’s Rinseless Wash - [x] Adam’s Undercarriage Spray - [x] Adam’s Tire Shine Bucket, Grit Guard, Towels, Applicators etc. I'm considering some of the following... Americana Shine Kit (Brilliant Glaze + Americana) Gallon of H2O GG (About halfway through my current supply) Glass Sealant Kit + Glass Boost (I'm not sure I really need this; my H2O GG already makes water dance off my windshield plus I just apply it with my Rinseless/Regular washes in one step...) Ceramic Boost (Again, not sure how necessary this is as I really like H2O GG and that I can apply it to every surface on my vehicle as part of my wash process...I guess an advantage would be you can do it dry? Worried about over spray on windows; appears it's quite something to remove from glass) Buying All the Polishing stuff for full Paint Correction ($$$) (I want to but I don't want to at the same time...) What are some of your products that you would recommend to be in someone's Adam's detailing arsenal?

Are you saying that the H20 GG gives more shine than Americana/Brilliant Glaze on white? You might have just saved me $80.