BHarris23

I like to use an IPA after polishing simply to make sure there are no lingering oils. Depending on what polish and how much is used, I’ve found some oils are leftover. Again, not every polish or compound but some.

Here are the steps I would do (different for everyone though): -Car shampoo with APC added (same effect as Strip Wash) -Iron Decon -Clay using soap from Car Shampoo -Polish (do a test panel with finish polish to see if that will take out imperfections first. If it doesn’t, move down to cutting) -50/50 Iso or Coating Prep (they do basically the same thing) -Paint Sealant, if you’re not doing a ceramic coating -Wax -Optional: Glaze Glaze to me doesn’t go under sealant or anything else. You either use it stand alone or over everything. It doesn’t have a very long lifespan and therefore, should go on top. The longest spanning product goes on bottom. (Metal-paint-clear coat-clear bra-ceramic coating-sealant-wax-glaze)

I called adam’s last week and they said they were out of stock on those.

I personally think the hex/waffle/spider designs or more to distinguish each company from others. The main thing, in my mind, that determines how well a car gets polished is the person using the polisher, polish, and pad. People got things done with a porter cable or a rotary with a wool pad. The stuff today does make it all easier and get better results easier, but there isn’t some HUGE difference in pads and polished so long as you don’t get the cheapest product possible.

I don’t think it’s a problem with the product. It could be you didn’t apply enough LC. If it’s chalky white, it’s probably dried out and so you need to apply multiple applications of LC. Whatever you do, don’t keep scrubbing or hitting it with more “cleaners.” If you do that, you’ll probably harm the panel beyond repair.

Depends on the application and what cars/trucks you’re using. No two vehicles are really the same. That being said, there are different steps you can take to where the same type of pads work for most cars. Scholls has a foam pad that is really good. But I personally prefer a microfiber pad for cutting and foam for finishing.

Again, like Rich said. If it wasn’t chalky before you used the product, then you’ve wiped away all the oil, grease, and dirt built up. You need to add leather conditioner to the dash and panels to rejuvenate them. If you don’t, it will become more susceptible to damage later.

You can use a microfiber applicator or the small applicator like they use with the ceramic coating kits. Either one will work, but I would throw it in some APC solution after using so you don’t get any crystallization on the applicator.

The least aggressive method would be to soak the bug infested area with waterless wash first prior to wash. If you want to go a little more aggressive, could use eco APC but you don’t want it to dwell too long.

There really isn’t a magical product that allows you to apply and rinse to perfection. Using a foam cannon or foam gun can help, but it’s more for sale of preventing scratches and getting a majority of the dirt/dust off. There will still need to be some sort of wiping done with a lubricated towel/pad/mitt. With that being said, if you’re looking for something to help with a RV, they have pole wash brushes that can help reach higher areas. Adam’s makes a truck brush and pole that can get those areas. There’s also a boar hair brush out there by Montana that is really good. If you want great results, ya gotta work a little. Wax/sealants/coatings help with getting the dirt/dust off, but it only does so much. Wax doesn’t last the length that you’re reapplying it at. Try a paint sealant if you’re wanting something to do twice a year. Or a ceramic coating for something that lasts up to 2 years.

If you buy a new one, it comes with pad cleaning solution. APC should be fine, but if you don’t get it all out or dry the pad properly before polishing again, you could be working against yourself. Starting with water would be best. It’s cheaper and has less risk of messing with polishing liquids.

Are you not using the stuff that they send with the pad washer?

If you drop a piece of clay, you could “down-grade” it. Use it for the inside of the wheels or something that you aren’t concerned with fine scratching. That’s why it’s always a good rule to never use an entire bar at once. Split it into halves or quarters depending on what using it for.

If you decide to clay the wheels, make sure you don’t use the same clay on the paint as the clay on the wheels. If clay doesn’t get the water spots off, try hand polishing either using revive or another polish.

You asked and they delivered!

Mine is too when she sees a box with the Adam’s tape. I wish they had an option for secretive boxes. So the wives won’t know what it is!

It’s the only one I have. So probably won’t sell/trade unless I decide to stop collecting them.

I like the Under Armour polo’s I see Adam wear in some of the videos. Clean, professional, but sporty. They need those for sale!

I’m glad you were at work then!

Honestly, I didn’t even wanna go that high. But then I remembered, when was the last time I saw one up for sale. One guy had one with 2 other bottles and I didn’t buy them when I should have. So, basically until I got it.

I’m sure some have asked before but I want to see about the Adam’s team come out with an Under Armour or Nike or something Polo shirt. I mostly wear polos and wouldn’t mind having a few of them to wear to work or when going out and about.

Sorry dude. I was the one who outbid you...

It shows out of stock. So a no go on that one at least.

Odor bomb will take the smell out but it’s a one time use product. The charcoal bag you can use multiple times. Though it’s effective, it won’t be as effective as the odor bomb.

Usually the higher in GSM you get on towels, the harder they are to use in my opinion. I like a towel that can be used for multiple things. Keeps down on having to buy multiple different towels and clutter.