stalebreadjr

Both of them are fine looking vehicles and your front emblem is really neat.
 
I'm going to recommend you look through some of @falcaineer posts that show his White car, he's got it perfected to really pop.  The one thing that I've learned is that if the wife is happy with the way her car looks, she doesn't ask questions about what I purchase or use, in fact she even does the ordering.  Although, I'm still not sure if that is because she's being helpful or controlling.

New member to the forum from NC. Been a fan of Adams since i saw them at the Carlisle Ford Nationals years ago.  Finally got back into detailing after i sold my mustang, now have a Blue Flame Metallic F150 FX4 i want to make shine like no tomorrow and my detaling supplies needed restocking so i am jumping back in with both feet in the Adams world.  Coming from the Meguires family of products.  Its been a while but i remember using the numbered products like Meguires Glaze # 26 and such. Can't wait till the house is built later this fall and have a dedicated garage for the first time.  So i jumped in and ordered a mystery box today and some black trim restoration. Hope everyone has a great week ahead and looking to dive into the forums! Adding a picture of the truck for fun and reference. 

Looks like a great way to spend a weekend!!!

Update: 
First order is in. Pic attached.  I know what ur saying.... "but Matt.... where are ur suede towels?"  Lol.  They were not in the box, however, I immediately contacted customer support and they have them on the way! Excellent service Adams! Thanks.  Order number 2 coming soon!! Then it will be time to put in the work. 

Update: 
First order is in. Pic attached.  I know what ur saying.... "but Matt.... where are ur suede towels?"  Lol.  They were not in the box, however, I immediately contacted customer support and they have them on the way! Excellent service Adams! Thanks.  Order number 2 coming soon!! Then it will be time to put in the work. 

Hello everyone my name is Andy I live in Charleston SC and detailing is my therapy!  Found Adams through the Chevrolet dealer I work at.  Great products and great people.

So I spent the last two days working on my 19 Equinox. It's black, so every single flaw is going to show up.  Washed and clayed the car, polished it using the Finishing Polish and Swirl Killer, wiped her down with the Ceramic Surface Prep, then started with Ceramic Spray Coating.  Two days of busting my rear in 90* heat in the garage, and I have to say, I'm damn happy with the results.   Check out the pictures. The last pic isn't dust............that's the metal flake in the paint. It just POPS now. 
 
 

Ok.  Just got back in from a week in the mountains.  Placed my 1st of 2 orders (because I'm poor lolol).  Here is what I have so far.  I ended up getting a kit that gives me what I need from my list and maybe a lil more.  
 
Adams Daily Driver Kit:
Includes:
10" Car Wash Pads Borderless Gray Towels 16oz H2O Guard & Gloss 16oz Detail Spray Visco Clay Bar Kit 16oz Car Shampoo 5 Gallon Car Wash Bucket with Grit Guard Short Wheel Brush 16oz All Purpose Cleaner 20" Fender Brush Adams Ceramic Spray Coating Kit W/ Prep
Includes:
4oz Ceramic Surface Prep 12oz Ceramic Spray Coating 2 Single Soft Towels 2 Suede Applicators Adams Gray Microfiber Pad - 6 Pack (as suggested by you folks)
Suede Microfiber Towel - 2 Pack
Gloves
2 Watermelon Air Fresheners (cuz....why not?)
 
I'll be putting in my second and final order in the next 2 weeks.  I have a cruise coming up that I gotta sock some cash back for....so slow rolling it.  After I get them then I'll be updating you guys on my progress as I go.  Starting with the RAM first and if all goes well, then will move on to the COMPASS.

Ok.  Just got back in from a week in the mountains.  Placed my 1st of 2 orders (because I'm poor lolol).  Here is what I have so far.  I ended up getting a kit that gives me what I need from my list and maybe a lil more.  
 
Adams Daily Driver Kit:
Includes:
10" Car Wash Pads Borderless Gray Towels 16oz H2O Guard & Gloss 16oz Detail Spray Visco Clay Bar Kit 16oz Car Shampoo 5 Gallon Car Wash Bucket with Grit Guard Short Wheel Brush 16oz All Purpose Cleaner 20" Fender Brush Adams Ceramic Spray Coating Kit W/ Prep
Includes:
4oz Ceramic Surface Prep 12oz Ceramic Spray Coating 2 Single Soft Towels 2 Suede Applicators Adams Gray Microfiber Pad - 6 Pack (as suggested by you folks)
Suede Microfiber Towel - 2 Pack
Gloves
2 Watermelon Air Fresheners (cuz....why not?)
 
I'll be putting in my second and final order in the next 2 weeks.  I have a cruise coming up that I gotta sock some cash back for....so slow rolling it.  After I get them then I'll be updating you guys on my progress as I go.  Starting with the RAM first and if all goes well, then will move on to the COMPASS.

Ok.  Just got back in from a week in the mountains.  Placed my 1st of 2 orders (because I'm poor lolol).  Here is what I have so far.  I ended up getting a kit that gives me what I need from my list and maybe a lil more.  
 
Adams Daily Driver Kit:
Includes:
10" Car Wash Pads Borderless Gray Towels 16oz H2O Guard & Gloss 16oz Detail Spray Visco Clay Bar Kit 16oz Car Shampoo 5 Gallon Car Wash Bucket with Grit Guard Short Wheel Brush 16oz All Purpose Cleaner 20" Fender Brush Adams Ceramic Spray Coating Kit W/ Prep
Includes:
4oz Ceramic Surface Prep 12oz Ceramic Spray Coating 2 Single Soft Towels 2 Suede Applicators Adams Gray Microfiber Pad - 6 Pack (as suggested by you folks)
Suede Microfiber Towel - 2 Pack
Gloves
2 Watermelon Air Fresheners (cuz....why not?)
 
I'll be putting in my second and final order in the next 2 weeks.  I have a cruise coming up that I gotta sock some cash back for....so slow rolling it.  After I get them then I'll be updating you guys on my progress as I go.  Starting with the RAM first and if all goes well, then will move on to the COMPASS.

When I first started researching and learning about the various products and proper methods for detailing, it was a bit overwhelming. Since it took five months from ordering the truck to taking delivery, I had lots of time to figure out what the different products are for and what the proper methods are, from washing to fixing paint issues to adding shine and protection.

Here are some tips and tricks that I think are useful for the beginning detailer. Some are basic and others are ones you may think are a bit extreme. Everyone has their own methods and ideas. I am not an expert so please provide constructive comments or opinions. If, for example, you have always detailed with rings on all ten fingers like Mr. T and have never had an issue, then keep at it. These are not do-or-die, my-way-or-the-highway items and I am not looking to start any arguments.

I realize there is an entire section on this forum for Tips & Tricks, my intent is to have a condensed list of some basic ones for the beginner who may not have the time to go through all the topics and replies.

I plan to edit this post in the future by adding or revising items as needed. If you have any tips or tricks that you think would be helpful to the beginner, post them and I will update this list.

If you are just getting started with detailing, you don’t really need all the equipment (pressure washer, DI filters, machine polisher) to get good results. Start with the proper washing equipment and methods for a two-bucket wash, use some Revive Hand Polish, and finish with Buttery Wax. Obviously any serious paint damage will require a machine but just removing most of the swirls and oxidation by hand and then adding some wax for shine and protection will make a big difference in how your vehicle looks. Wear clean clothes and change your shirt if it gets dirty or wet during washing. You don’t want any dirt from your clothing falling into the polish or wax as it could cause damage to the paint. Do not wear rings, watches or other jewelry. Work in a clean area if possible. If you have to work outside, avoid windy days so dirt or dust does not get blown onto the paint while you are working. Cleaning the vehicle is the most important step. Any dirt hiding out could get picked-up during polishing or waxing and create damage. Drying with just a towel can take a long time trying to get under all the trim and you often get sneaky drips during the Paint Sealant and the water around the lug nuts jumps out when you spray the Quick Sealant. A blower like the MetroVac Sidekick is very helpful. If you use a compressor make sure it is oil-less, you don’t want to be spraying a mist of oil onto the paint prior to sealing it. If you are going to Clay Bar, you don’t need to dry unless your water is hard and leaves spots, just spray the whole vehicle with Detail Spray when it is still wet. First apply SVRT to all the trim and plastic to keep the polishes, sealants and waxes from soaking in, which reduces the time spent cleaning product off these areas. A small foam painting brush works well for applying SVRT to narrow trim like around the windows. I would wash again after any large paint correcting job to remove any abrasives from the nooks and crannies. The abrasives could get picked-up by the applicator during the sealant, glaze or wax and cause damage. Reapply SVRT to trim as needed. Label any applicators for use on a specific product (such as sealant, glaze and wax) and then use that applicator for that product each time, i.e. don't wax with an applicator that you used for sealant on the last detail. [credit Ricky Bobby] Do the paint sealant on everything painted including flares and bumpers. I only did the Glaze on the shiny body paint. Do the headlights and taillights with the same steps as the paint. Have extra towels and applicators for each step. If you drop it, DO NOT USE IT AGAIN even if it looks clean. Same goes for the clay bars. Figure on using two Double Soft Towels for each step but have a few extra. The Paint Sealant and Glaze were easy to remove but the Americana Wax took some more work. Don’t get too far ahead applying the wax before going back to remove the haze. The Glaze was slow to dry, I applied to the whole truck before removing. The Paint Sealant is very hard to clean out of applicators. I used a lot of All Purpose Cleaner and Microfiber Revitalizer but next time I will just toss the applicators used on the Paint Sealant. If you are working in a garage with a smooth concrete floor, use a piece of cardboard that has been cut to fit around the front and sides of the tire to keep the floor from getting too slippery from spraying products on the wheels and tires. Follow the rule of "LEAST AGRESSIVE FIRST" for all processes.  Don't just use all the products for the sake of using them.  If washing weekly, you probably don't need to use DWC every time.  If your wheels and tires are just dusty, try just using Shampoo.  If that is not enough, try some GWC, then only use the most aggressive DWC when really needed.  Same goes for polishing.  Try the least aggressive product first on a test section and evaluate the results.  If Revive is not enough, try PFP.  If that is not enough then go to PCP.  And for the interior, if your seats are not visibly dirty, you don't need to use the cleaner first, just use some Leather Conditioner on a towel for a damp wipe-down.  The same goes for plastics, only use a cleaner if really needed, a wipe with TID is usually enough for routine maintenance.  
Edit on 9/27/14 to add #15, which was inspired by Scott (Sizzle Chest).

Good question. That's another debated topic. lol. I tend to rinse after a decontamination. I normally do the decon right after I have finished washing (without drying). 
So to put it chronologically:
Wash Iron Remover Clay (with DS) Rinse Dry Revive Hand Polish I don't know if there's a "right" answer. This is just a process that I'm comfortable with and works for me. You may find that you prefer a different process.

Dang right

Thanks! I'm quite happy with it! Shinier pics to come soon! 

Ha! The struggle is real! That's why finding these products was a light bulb for sure! 

Alright, I think you folks have given me a lot to think about and narrow down.  I really really do appreciate your kindness and detailed responses.  I've got 2 weeks of away time (vacation and work) and then I'll be placing my final orders.  I'll keep this thread updated w/ pics when I get my order in and start on my vehicles.  Thanks especially to Juan for the detailed write up but I'm not leaving out any thanks for all the helpful responses from others like Ray.  BTW Ray, I watched the video in your linked thread and was blown away when they used RHP to remove spray paint from that hood!!!  Also, the Malibu looks great!

Alright, I think you folks have given me a lot to think about and narrow down.  I really really do appreciate your kindness and detailed responses.  I've got 2 weeks of away time (vacation and work) and then I'll be placing my final orders.  I'll keep this thread updated w/ pics when I get my order in and start on my vehicles.  Thanks especially to Juan for the detailed write up but I'm not leaving out any thanks for all the helpful responses from others like Ray.  BTW Ray, I watched the video in your linked thread and was blown away when they used RHP to remove spray paint from that hood!!!  Also, the Malibu looks great!

Sorry for the wait. Here I'll tell you my process. I'm sure some others on this discussion may have some different input or suggestions to better this process, so please be open to those suggestions too. So total time I spent working hands on was around 4 hours. I'll try to give you the products I used (with links) and reasons for each step I took. This can become repetitive and tedious at times, but I'm doing so because I believe that I'm reducing the chances of damaging my paint. I think I would follow this process even if I chose to use a different type of protection, but it's pretty important to take preparation steps for a ceramic coating as @falcaineer mentioned.
 
1. Cleaned tires, wheels, wheel wells, and exhaust tip - I always start with this step so as to not put water on paint. If I don't put water on the paint, then the water won't dry and it reduces the chances of water spots. I go one wheel at a time rinsing my tools in between. I make sure to have all my tools and chemicals prepared before putting water on the vehicle. What I mean by that is I have a bucket full of water and a little bit of CS, and I put all of my tools in the bucket. I start by spraying water all over the wheel, tire, and wheel well. Then spray some diluted APC into the wheel wells (I use APC because the majority of my wheel wells are carpet not rubber or plastic), then I take my Fender Brush (one of my favorites) and I brush the entirety of the wheel well. Then I rinse the wheel well. I follow that by spraying TRC onto the tire face and tread block, and use a Tire Brush to clean. In this step, the tires start to turn orange/brown which shows that the tires are dirty. I repeat this step until the chemical no longer turns brown but appears white. Then I spray WC into the wheel barrel, rotors, and wheel face. You'll see the spray starting to turn red/purple, this means the chemical is reacting with and breaking down the iron/metallic particles that contaminate the wheel from brake dust and other grime from the road. I use a wheel brush to agitate the chemical, I actually like to use the Lug Nut brush to agitate the rotors and get in the lug nuts, and I also think it's a good option to use for the face of the wheel. Then I would either use a wheel woolie or a barrel brush to get the wheel barrel and the back of the spokes. Then I would make sure to rinse the tire, wheel, and wheel wells thoroughly. and to avoid scratching the wheels, I try to rinse my tools after I use them before I put them back in the bucket. Then I repeat for each wheel. For the exhaust tips, I basically just spray APC into the exhaust and use the wheel woolie or barrel brush to agitate, then rinse it all out.
 
Chemicals used 
Wheel Cleaner (WC) Tire and Rubber Cleaner (TRC) All Purpose Cleaner, Diluted 1:1 with water (APC) Car Shampoo (CS)  
Tools used
Tire Brush Fender Brush Wheel Woolie or Wheel Barrel Brush Lug Nut Brush  
 Here's Adams Process:
 
2. Wash Car with Strip Wash - This step is to not only clean the vehicle exterior, the strip wash is also trying to break down any protection (wax, sealant, etc.) you have on your vehicle. This can sound like a bad thing, but just keep in mind, later in this process we will be adding protection back to the paint, and likely a much better protection. We want to remove any existing protection, because we want the paint to be "naked." This will allow the coating to properly bond with the paint/clear coat. Start by having everything prepared before putting any water on the paint, once again we want to reduce the chance of water spots especially on your beautiful black vehicles. Preferably you would use a two bucket wash method, in addition I love to use a pressure washer and foam cannon. If using a pressure washer and foam cannon, put about 4-5 oz of strip wash in the foam cannon bottle, and I like to use 2-3oz of APC as well, I have seen in the past how APC is such a good degreaser that it will break down sealants and waxes. The problem there is if it dries on the paint, it can cause damage. So I was very careful about using APC. I start by rinsing the vehicle first, with only water, them immediately (since I am prepared) I attach my foam cannon and cover the vehicle in the strip wash/APC solution. I let that dwell for maybe 2 minutes. If you're not using a foam cannon you can start here by having two buckets filled with water and grit guards. One has only clean water and a grit guard, the other has your soap solution of 3-4 oz of strip wash, and here I also like to add 2-3 oz of APC again. My wash mitt(s) go in the soap solution until after I have initially rinsed the vehicle. Once I have rinsed I grab my wash mitt and go from the top of the vehicle to the bottom. I am always aware of what's on my mitt, and if I picked up dirt or sticks or whatever, I make sure to get it off by either picking it out, using the pressure washer to clean it off, and putting my mitt in the bucket with only water and rubbing against the grit guard to clean the mitt before dunking back into the soap bucket. Try to keep the vehicle wet and lubricated by squeezing your mitt to release water/soap, until you finish cleaning the vehicle, and then immediately rinse thoroughly. If you need to take a break or if you aren't prepared for step 3, I would dry. (I wasn't prepared so I dried) if you have the option to dry with air, that's a good option, if not use a microfiber towel with no drying aid, meaning don't use Detail Spray or anything just use the towel. If you can go straight into step 3, do that you will dry the vehicle after that!
 
Chemicals used
Strip Wash All Purpose Cleaner (APC)  
Tools used
2 Buckets Grit Guards Wash Mitt or Sponge, etc Microfiber Drying Towel  
3. Chemical and Clay Decontamination- Every vehicle has contamination on it, even new ones. In this step you will be removing contamination that has been stuck in the clear coat. This step can look very different depending on who you talk to. Some people like to do this step during the wash, I'm not sure if there's a "right way", but this is how I did it following the wash and dry: I start by spraying down the vehicle (depending on the weather and if you're doing this indoor or out door you may want to go panel by panel) with IR (or you can use a diluted WC), This acts just like WC in that it's reaction with iron and metallic contamination turns red/purple. It may be hard to see on black. I didn't see it on my dark grey paint, but I could see it dripping purple on the concrete when I was washing it off... Anyways I sprayed the whole vehicle, then let it sit for 1-2 minutes. The weather was cloudy and like 50ºF. Then I rinsed it all off. Then I used a clay lube and used a clay bar to remove other contaminants that are stuck in the clear coat. I normally use very careful, very light pressure (since clay is an abrasive) and never ever do it dry. Always make sure the surface is lubricated. Do this for all the wheels, paint, glass, chrome, or anything that shines, I don't use it for my trim peices. You will see and feel your clay bar start to pick up little specs of contamination. Periodically keep an eye on how much contamination is on the clay bar, and you may need to bend/reshape the clay in order to get a clean surface before continuing. Important note: you never want to drop this on the ground. It will pick up rocks and stuff that can drag some nice scratches in your paint. That goes for microfiber towels and wash mitts too. They love to grab stuff so be careful never to put them on the ground. I like to rinse and dry once I'm done with the clay, others don't think its a necessary step.
 
Chemicals used
Iron Remover (IR) or Wheel Cleaner, diluted (WC) Clay Lube (Diluted Rinseless Wash, Diluted Car Shampoo, Detail Spray... for the Ceramic Coating prep any of these would work, but I would lean more towards the diluted car shampoo as you won't be leaving any polymers or anything on the paint)  
Tools Used
Clay Bar of Choice (I used and Liked Visco Elastic Clay, People with large vehicles love the Clay Mitt, I think the most mild clay that would do the least amount of damage would be the Fine Clay Bar)  
4. Polishing- Get indoors if you can at this point. This step is important to get your paint as perfect as possible. This is highly recommended and I recommend it. Once you apply the coating any defects your paint may have will now be sealed under the coating. My vehicle was relatively new, and I didn't have many defects to my paint, so I skipped the polishing step. Looking back, I would have done a polish even if just a RHP. Polishing will make a difference. Although I didn't do it, I would recommend you at least do a polish with the finishing polish with the white pad at this step. RHP with a blue hex grip pad (or white pad if using a machine) would be the last thing I would do before moving on. The polishing step is pretty heavily subjective depending on your preferences and your specific paint, so please feel free to ask me any questions you have about this, and I can try to answer them or point you to some help. But since I don't know the specifics, it's hard for me to direct you on here. Looking back, I would have done a polish even if just a RHP. Polishing will make a difference. Although I didn't do it, I would recommend you at least do a polish with the finishing polish with the white pad at this step. Also, The OSP with the One Step Pads look awesome and I'm excited to try them out. RHP with a blue hex grip pad (or white pad if using a machine), and remove with a microfiber towel, would be the last thing I would do before moving on. Also Work in very small sections at a time... Like 2 x 2 small.
 
Chemicals mentioned
Revive Hand Polish (RHP) One Step Polish (OSP) Finishing Polish  
Tools mentioned
Polisher (if you don't have one, it looks like Adams in the future may be introducing a rental program for polishers) One Step Pads White Pad Blue hex grip pad Single-soft Microfiber Towel, or Double-soft Microfiber Towel  
5. Surface Prep- This is crucial to the process. To fully clean the surface and remove an polishing oils or leftover wax that may be lingering. Us Adam's SP or a solution of Isopropyl Alcohol to spray down the paint and wipe with a Single-soft Microfiber Towel, or if you prefer, spray on the towel and wipe the surface. Do this for the glass and all the paint and the lights, and chrome and wheels. On the rubber trim pieces, possibly on your truck bed liner, I would use TRC with a Microfiber Utility Towel to clean those peices. I am not sure for the bed liner, maybe somebody else has a better idea for that. but then once all of this is cleaned, you're ready to move onto the coating stage.
 
Chemicals used
Surface Prep (SP) or IPA solution Tire and Rubber Cleaner (TRC)  
Tools used
Single-soft Microfiber Towel Microfiber Utility Towel  
 
6. Protection- Do this in the garage. This is the step to apply your protection. Whether that be Wax, Sealant, or Ceramic Coating. For the CSC, you will want to have that prepared with a few clean towels for the "removal" or "leveling" of the coating. I only used a competitors towels that I had gotten for cheap because I love Adam's towels and I don't want to throw them away if I use them for a Ceramic Coating. But that was before Adam's came out with their new ceramics line and added the suede removal towels and before I had thought about using a Microfiber Applicator as the application media. So I had two towels one for applying and one for leveling. Next time, I will use the Microfiber Applicator and a Suede Removal towel. Wear gloves. Spray the CSC a few times directly into the Microfiber Applicator. Using a cross hatch pattern apply to a small section (2x2). The cross hatch pattern is just to ensure coverage. Then wait 30 - 90 seconds until you see the surface start to flash (it turns rainbow and looks like oil on water) - make sure you have good lighting. Then use the suede removal towel to lvel the product. Basically you just gently wipe until the surface is glossy. It's important that you go over the paint where you've applied the coating. If you don't or if you miss any spots you'll get something called "high spots" on the paint which can look like streaks or build up of product. Look up some pictures of high spots on the forums. Those are no fun, you'll likely have to polish out the coating and reapply. So just be aware and diligent. That's where working in small sections can really really help. So continue moving around the vehicle like this. Make sure you get your glass, chrome, lights, and trim. The CSC is pretty much safe on all exterior surfaces. @falcaineer mentioned that on trim, you don't need to go over the second time since it will self level there. When I did it, I did go over it a second time. Next time I will try doing it without. I did not use CSC on my wheels, but you may choose do and just follow the same procedure. Once you've finished coating the vehicle, it's time to wait and let it cure. CSC needs 4 hours minimum. I left mine over night. You'll notice a huge difference in gloss. It's really special to see the results of your hard work. 
 
Chemicals used
Ceramic Spray Coating (CSC)  
Tools used
Microfiber Applicator Suede Removal Towels Gloves  
Make sure you throw away any towel or applicator you used for the Coating. The SiO2 will dry in the medium and essentially become shards of glass that will scratch your paint if you ever put them back on the surface.
 
7. Boost- After you've let the coating fully cure, this is the time to add CB if you choose to. Use less product than you think. Go one panel at a time.You would just spray the CB onto the surface and wipe with a microfiber towel, double-soft works well. Then flip the towel over (or use a second clean and dry one) and wipe until it's shiny. CB (or anything with SiO2) can also be the culprit of High Spots, so just be aware of that. I always give a second wipe down to any SiO2 product I use. If at any point you see that it's getting streaky and your dry side of the towel is no longer leading to a shine, it's time to flip the towel to a new side or get a new clean and dry towel. A good way of using microfiber towels is to have them folded into quarters, and then you have 8 total sides of a towel to switch to if one gets dirty or saturated. This goes for pretty much any time you want to use one, not just for the CB. This is the point where I got my wheels. Make sure to get your wheels! This is also when I used my tire shine or tire armor.
 
Chemicals used
Ceramic Boost (CB)  
Tools used
Double-soft Microfiber Towel  
This is a great video I have found where Adam goes into pretty good detail for a lot of these steps. He does some things that I didn't do. For example he applies glass sealant and paint sealant. We don't want those because our CSC will act as the protection for both the glass and the paint. So his goal at the end of this video is different than the things we are trying to acheive, but he still takes the time to explain in detail the steps. SO it's a great video. Adam's has an awesome library of videos throughout their website and on youtube. Check those out!
 
And you're done! now to enjoy the benefits of the coating. Your gloss will be awesome! and future washes will be easier. Just use Car shampoo and dry and all the dirt will just come flying off. Also make sure to peek the window if you ever leave your vehicle in the rain. Water will just slide off. It's likely you will use your windshield wipers less, if you coat the windshield. I rarely use my windshield wipers, I love watching the water go up up and away. In future washes just follow a normal procedure, and you can use CB about once every month or so to boost the coating after you wash your car. About every or every other wash I love to use Ceramic Waterless Wash as a detail spray and drying aid. It's an amazing product. Also there are some other shampoos like the Wash+Coat and Wash and Wax which contain SiO2 and can also add a small boost to the coating. So just find a process that works for you.
 
There's a big initial investment of time and money especially if you're just starting off, but I found that really enjoy my time detailing my vehicle and others' vehicles. It's therapeutic and Adam's products really enhance the process for me. And once you get those tools and towels, those will last you a while with proper care, so the majority of things you'll need in the future are refills or the occasional new chemical you want to try.
 
Speaking of care... After I finish using a towel, I immediately throw it in a bucket full of water and I'll try to have some APC in the bucket or some detergent if handy. If not, car shampoo will do. But reason for that is to start breaking down whatever the towel may have picked up. If a towel is especially dirty like when I rinseless wash or waterless wash, my towels get real dirty. I put them in a bucket of water and once I'm ready (normally just later in the day, I don't like to leave towels for more than a day) I will spray the dirty towels down with APC and Rinse them with High pressure, whether I have my pressure washer out or I can just use my outdoor spigot, which has a good bit of pressure out of the wall. I let that loosen the dirt, then I take them to the Washing Machine. Also, if I use any SiO2 product, I immediately put those in a bucket of water because even if a product has a low level of SiO2 like the Wash+Coat, Wash and Wax, Ceramic Waterless Wash, and Ceramic Boost, that SiO2 can dry if you give it enough time. So I put those in water and wash those towels as soon as I possibly can. I wash them in Cold Cold water, Adam's has their own detergent which is GREAT. Microfiber Revitalizer. And I add an extra rinse cycle. I dry like in the dryer using Low Heat or No Heat. 
I never ever mix my microfibers with cotton or really anything else, I normally have enough to wash a small load after a wash.
 
Here's a thread for Microfiber Care:
 
Below is an image of my paint after my maintenance wash yesterday. I just used CS to clean the wheels and the paint. I used TRC for the tires, and used Ceramic Waterless Wash as my drying aid with my Jumbo Plush Drying Towel (and went back over the whole car lightly with a double soft until it was shiny).

Here you can see the gloss from the coating is still there, even months after I coated, and I haven't used Ceramic Boost in like 6 weeks or so:

Then it obviously rained after I washed my vehicle because you know how this works, but I woke up to these nice beads:

I will update this later today with some links and pictures and stuff. I hope this helps.
 
Updated:
I included links, pictures and videos. That's alot... Sorry.
 
 

Thanks for the welcome and I know Rich.... it's a constant WIP! 😑 but when she's clean.... man she looks good! Lol! Im glad you are bearing the burden with me. You can always say "at least i don't have 2 like stalebreadjr! " 😁

Thanks Ray.  And thanks for the humidity tips!  Especially not having used any of the products referenced that gives me some food for thought.  Summer in GA is usually close to 100 mid day and humidity is almost always high.  I'll take it any day over freezin' though! 😁  I have thought of using HGG in place of the drying method I currently use and may still add that as an extra step.
 
Thanks Chris.  At 6 bucks those applicator pads are a no brainer to use something that actually works better!
 
Cool!  Thanks Juan!  I appreciate that very much. 👍

Thanks Ray.  And thanks for the humidity tips!  Especially not having used any of the products referenced that gives me some food for thought.  Summer in GA is usually close to 100 mid day and humidity is almost always high.  I'll take it any day over freezin' though! 😁  I have thought of using HGG in place of the drying method I currently use and may still add that as an extra step.
 
Thanks Chris.  At 6 bucks those applicator pads are a no brainer to use something that actually works better!
 
Cool!  Thanks Juan!  I appreciate that very much. 👍

Thanks Chris! This is the kind of info I'm looking for exactly.  And yes.... I'm sure this is now considered my new addiction 🤣! BTW, here is the compass newly washed and my 2016 dodge RAM attached. 

Awesome. Thanks for the advice.  I think the kit also has 2 grey suede rectangle applicators for the ceramic coating.  Would those suffice for application? I also actually scored the ceramic boost already in my mystery bucket, so, visco clay kit and ceramic kit seems to be all im missing.   Oh and I'm definitely taking Chris's advice of using the strip wash first as well. 
 
I can't tell you how much this helps! With so many products to choose from, narrowing it down and having a plan is tough! 

Hey all!
 
I am definitely a newbie when it comes to car detailing and have stumbled on these products via instagram and so far I am definitely hooked on them.  I have a full size truck and a small jeep and they are garage kept vehicles.  So far I've played the roulette of mystery buckets so that I could try out a few things.  Now that I have 2 buckets and grit guard and essential wash pads and such, I have the basics from what I can tell watching the adams videos for the 2 bucket wash and I've followed that process.  It works great!  I dried my vehicles with the great white towel method.  
 
My big question here is what process should I follow to protect my vehicles.  I'm a little confused by the waxing versus sealing versus coating difference.  I really would like to try the ceramic spray on my vehicles but I don't know what is the proper process to get my vehicle to the point to apply.  I can tell that the video instruct thorough washing and claying (visco clay is in my cart preparing to be purchased) but I'm unsure of what to do next. 
Is it proper to just prep and ceramic spray?   
Should I wax the car first and then follow? 
Should I ceramic spray and then use ceramic boost periodically?
I'm pretty lost when it comes to anything more than the basic wash and care of a vehicle but I'm open to all suggestion! 
 
Thanks in advance!
- stalebreadjr

Thanks Chris! This is the kind of info I'm looking for exactly.  And yes.... I'm sure this is now considered my new addiction 🤣! BTW, here is the compass newly washed and my 2016 dodge RAM attached.