Sam Y

With the kitchen question I was thinking more along the lines of towels I had previously used to clean my wheels with. I don't mind tossing the towels... it's more just the thought that I already used one that had ceramic coat remains it. I need a color system for these towels. Too bad Costco only makes one color. Also, it says you're supposed to rip the tag off each towel before you use it? I did not know this!

I was reading an article here and it says the ceramic coated towels will damage your paint if you re-use them for detailing. Is this true? I installed my ceramic spray coat almost a month ago and now the towels I used are mixed somewhere in the bunch of towels that I have. Do I need to throw these all out just to be safe? On that topic, is there any danger to re-using these towels as wipe-down rags in the kitchen? My fear is that the same towels I use to clean my wheels will have embedded contaminants that I probably don't want anywhere near my kitchen. I am using the Costco Kirkland towels and I always wash them with microfiber towel wash on low heat setting.

I would say it didn't cure properly. A few weeks ago I applied Adam's graphene coating to my car and compared it with another panel which had already been coated with CQuartz by a professional (1 year ago). The above is the old coating, and the below is the new coating. As you can see, the lower (Adam's Graphene) has a much sharper angle. This was the same panel and I used a pipette to drop the water. All I did was waterless wash, clay, surface prep, and then applied 1 coating. Wait 4 hours and got this result. My first attempt I didn't prep it properly and I got mediocre results. I would say, don't be afraid to polish it down and try again.

Great suggestions here to try brilliant glaze. I'll have to do that next time I clean the interior windows. Have you guys tried xxxxx? Lots of guys in the Lexus forums live by it. It is a bit tricky to apply and I am told it's not good for the environment, but it seems like the bond lasts for months. I only applied it to my car this past weekend- let's see how long it lasts.

Can you spot it? (hint: dead center) Unfortunately my dedicated spot is under a tree. I usually am very careful but this one was dried and one bad swipe and it made group of scratches. There goes my CQuartz coating. On the plus side another bird dropping didn't stick to my clear bra which I had just coated with Adam's graphene. It works! I would polish it out but then I'd have to recoat the panel. Not really worth it considering only I would notice. Maybe something can cover it up?

Boost requires a little skill to work with and you have to be careful not to let it dry. It has to be done on a clean surface and I just don't have enough time to wash + boost, especially (to me) it seems to only last a week or two. It's nice to use on the horizontal surfaces of my car when I have some free time but usually just not worth it. Bear in mind my car is parked outside so all sorts of stuff get on it.

Exactly what Ray said above. It depends on your conditions. For someone like me who parks his daily driver car outside. Usually during pollen season or in the winter- waterless wash once a week. If it's garaged, probably every two weeks with a full wash monthly. If you're going on long road trips it'll probably require more. You find what works for you. Really it's about how much time/money you have and how much you find detailing therapeutic. If you wash too often you will introduce scratches so you will have to be okay with light dust on your car.

Agreed. I don't use the ceramic sprayers enough, but the new sprayers have been really bad for me. I ordered sprayers from Adam's right when they swapped over to the new ones, and now I find myself re-using my old ones. The new ones just don't have much power and end up squirting out blanks when the product reaches below 25%. They also don't do well at an angle (facing down) probably due to the shorter straw.

Most of my mistakes involve using too much or too little substance. It helps to watch the Adam's videos ahead of time as they greatly show how to use the product. I find the directions on the bottle very vague which, let's be honest, is not their fault. I had to do the exact same thing to my hood just now because I messed up the hand polish step on the ppf portion. Clay -> hand polish -> surface prep -> graphene ceramic spray. Let's see how it does- I already tried the graphene spray and it didn't do so well in my measurements. I am sure I am doing something wrong. I agree with you- Ceramic boost is one of those products that I try out and am sorely disappointed. It's not worth the time or the money. I only used it on the horizontal portions of my car and usually within a week the dust gets to it and hydrophobicity is lost. The best bet is to just keep the surface clean so my original CQuartz can do its job.

I think the key is pressure. I have been using heavy pressure like a newbie thinking that it'll get stuff off. I really should be thinking "passes" and running light pressure with multiple passes. Having plenty of lubricant is also a must. Anyway, the answer is in plenty of other forums. If you can't remove it from a wash (or in my case my fingernail), then you need to repolish. Claying can cause marring if done wrong. Lesson learned.

Found the answer in a search. Basically one has to use brilliant glaze to get it off. I don't have an adams retailer nearby so I just went out and got Meguiar's #7 Mirror Glaze. Worked fine. I am glad I didn't go through the trouble of polishing and possibly removing my ceramic coat.

A few times I used ceramic boost and didn't wipe it off correctly. Now it has streaking that has been on for months. I want to keep the ceramic coat underneath (Cquartz Pro) so my plan was to wash, clay, and lightly polish it with Adam's hand polishing compound and blue hex polisher. Then I would wipe it down, use Adam's surface prep, and spray on a graphene coating. My question is, is this a good idea? Will the hand polish or surface prep also take away my Cquartz coating?

Seems every once in a while the clay bar gets 'caught' and I leave a hazy finish on the clear coat/clear bra. I know it's just clay but it just doesn't go away. It is especially noticeable on my black car. I just did the hood and split it up into 12 parts. Used plenty of Adam's detail spray and used very little pressure. I made two mistakes and one was removed fine with another pass but the other seems like it's there to stay. I'm at a loss here, do I polish it off?

I see. I've used both actually but didn't notice any extra shine. I wasn't looking for it, however. Ceramic boost restored the hydrophobicity and and the CS3 was just another expensive cleaner to me. I would be willing to give it another shot, but it is quite expensive.

This is a good question. Despite what I read on forums, I use both as a waterless wash on my car and I find the waterless formula has more lubricity and thus I like it more. They both clean well, however. I also see waterless formula evaporate slower on a hot day which makes for a better cleaning experience. Rinseless (even at 16:1) is for sure more economical and I feel like it makes me psychologically not be stingy with my sprays since I know it's mostly water. They both smell great. I have yet to try a true rinseless wash or the Gerry Dean method but once I get a garage I would probably do so.

I would think brilliant glaze doesn't stick to the ceramic coated car just like the traditional wax also doesn't. I really haven't found a product that makes my ceramic coated car to "pop" like a wax does. Then again, I haven't tried the paste wax (It's expensive!).

Gamma seal is super tight so you should have no trouble transporting water. I am not so sure if the bucket topples however! Is there any downside to keeping damp towels in the gamma seal lid? The only issue is mold which I haven't seen on any of my towels. I've only ever stored them in a trunk organizer though.

I was wondering the same thing about the waterless wash. Here you can see my last bottle and current bottle. The color and scent were obviously different. (the left/darker one is the new formula I received recently, the right one is from a few months ago). The thing is, it's okay that these formulas change from time to time. BUT it gets you wondering as a customer: often times companies change things to cut costs. I think the Kirkland microfiber towels I used to love had a similar transition in the last two years. If no explanation is given as to why the formula changed, then that's the default explanation I would give myself as a consumer. Trying out both sprays I don't think I could tell the difference, but it would've been nice to have a different name so the formula change is transparent. Then again, maybe that's too much work.

Same situation as you DasShuk. I live in a complex where sprinklers turn on at 2AM and blast every car with mineral water. Even with a professional Ceramic CQuartz done and diligently washing the car when I see water- there is no way to get it out except polishing (I assume). I will still stick to the ceramic coating due to the fact that it makes the rest of the car easier to clean especially in this massive pollen hurricane season, but I do recognize and see through a lot of the 'fluff' ceramic coating marketers throw at you. Once I get a garage a lot of these issues will be solved. Until then, it's just damage control!

This looks great! I always wanted an Evora. The color shift looks really good on camera. How's it for a DD?

Hello all. I am the owner of a 2016 Lexus GSF in Ultrasonic Blue Mica 2.0 I used to use Meguiar's but then got hooked on Adam's since getting the car ceramic coated. It is parked outside so I have to wash it a LOT. Especially in the springtime when there is lots of pollen. I don't have a garage else I would do a traditional wash. My favorite products are Adam's Waterless wash, Adam's Detail spray, and recently the Rinseless wash. It takes me about 30 minutes to do the GSF from top to bottom.