Dan@Adams

Brilliant Glaze does have a small amount of solvent in while adding shine and masking some imperfections. I have not specifically tried it on top of that product yet. To be 100% certain, I would recommend consulting the manufacturer of that product for what is safe to use on it, but I can say that I have layered our Brilliant Glaze on top of our waxes and sealants on dozens and dozens of cars with no issues, and they are not as durable as a ceramic coating. Improper washing and drying cause the majority of swirl marks in a finish, along with contaminated towels, applicators, wash pads, etc. Performing a Two Bucket Wash with Grit Guards, always inspecting and cleaning your wash pads in between panels, using quality drying towels, and so on are all excellent ways to avoid putting any new swirl marks into the finish of a vehicle.

Please keep this civil and do not bash competitors - we do not believe in that here - or this thread will be locked and deleted like the one from last week. I also edited out the link from the first post. Thank you for understanding. From our User Agreement on the forum: OUTSIDE PRODUCTS & COMPETITIVE COMPARISONS Linking competitors products or outside vendors on AdamsForums.com is strictly prohibited. The team at Adam's understands that we are clearly not the only detail products on the market, but we do however reserve the right to limit the discussion of such products in order to protect our best interests. Light discussion and comparison of outside products is perfectly acceptable so long as it remains respectful, but direct links, marketing, excessive discussion, and endorsement of any product not endorsed or sold by Adam's Premium Car Care is prohibited. There are a number of detailing discussion boards and enthusiast forums on the web where these products can be discussed at length. Here at AdamsForums.com please try to keep the discussion related to the use and support of Adam's products.

Hmm, I remember these too. Maybe now is a good time to make an updated one when I have a few free minutes?

Mystery Boxes are indeed a gamble, but also a great way to possibly try out products that you may not already have. I know absolutely nothing about when the next one may or may not pop up

The yellow-green metering tip is what we recommend for most customers, but the purple metering tip will make more foam at the cost of going through the 32oz container more quickly. We now ship the foam guns with only these 2 metering tips (2 of each so that you have spares) since all of the other ones were a little redundant, and one of our goals for this year is to keep simplifying things when possible to make products and processes easier and more enjoyable

^^^^^ What Chris said I like the Yellow Hex better for Buttery Wax, but if you're in a pinch and don't have one, a Red Hex or Microfiber Applicator Block Pad will work ok too. I like keeping things color-coded though so that I don't mix multiple products in one applicator, especially for things like Buttery Wax and Paint Sealant that are a little more difficult to fully remove all of the product out of the applicator when cleaning the applicators.

Handy tip: I put my EZ fill funnels right into the gallon handle, they will pop in there nicely if you have a gallon from us that has been purchased in the last 2 or 3 years or so

Hi Blair, welcome to the forum! It sounds like that is most likely salt transfer from your perspiration that has left marks on the leather. I see it often on headrests that people lean their head back onto a lot. You best option would be to clean it with our Leather & Interior Cleaner first, then put on Leather Conditioner. Spray the LIC onto an Edgeless Utility Microfiber Towel rather than directly onto the seat, and test it out on a small inconspicous area of the seat to ensure that it is not going to pull out any color using it at full strength, for example, the back underside of the seat. If it pulls color, dilute it 1:1 with water. Wipe the towel into the affected area, giving it a decent scrub, then flip the towel over to the dry side to wipe clean. Once dry, if the discoloration still remains, spray the seat a little and use our Cockpit Brush to gently scrub the leather, then use the dry side of the Edgeless Utility Towel to wipe the seat clean. It might take a few applications of the LIC to remove everything.

Hi Jason, I'm sorry you're having issues with the Wheel Cleaner. It should not be staining your clear coated wheels if used properly and not allowed to dry onto the surface. It should start turning to a purple color in about 2 minutes or so after spraying onto the wheel, then I will agitate it with our Short Wheel Brush and immediately rinse clean with a powerful blast from the hose, making sure to remove any traces of the cleaner from any spokes, cracks, crevices, lug holes, etc. I clean one wheel at a time to ensure there are no issues. For wheels that are just lightly dirty, I will use our Car Shampoo instead - I save the Wheel Cleaner/Deep Wheel Cleaner for heavily soiled wheels with lots of brake dust built up on them. Do you have any pictures you could provide? If you aren't able to post them here, please send them to tips@adamspolishes.com.

Hi, we do recommend to wash them out after every use, but I would advise against putting them in the washing machine. The high heat and motions of the washing machine could affect the foam of the applicator, which could then contaminate the towels. Spray it down with some All Purpose Cleaner, let it soak for a minute or so, and then rinse it under warm water, using your thumbs and figners to work the sealant out of the applicator. Then allow the applicator to air dry for about 2 days. Our Paint Sealant is one of the more difficult products to clean out of an applicator due to the acrylic nature of the sealant, so you may not get all of it out like you would with polishes in our foam machine applicator pads or hex grips.

I've noticed that after rinsing my Turbo Stick and Short Wheel Brush and leaving them sit in my laundry room to dry, that the vanilla is more apparent than when spraying it on the car, which is fine by me

I'm only reporting what happened. FedEx contacted us and said they could not make it to the facility on that day due to road conditions. Our lead shipping man Jason then informed the whole team and we reported out the issue as quickly as possible so that customers would be made aware. The 400+ pieces I mentioned were just what was left to catch up on from Monday evening and Tuesday orders and is only part of the 1250+ orders from the last 7 day total amount, not to mention many large wholesale orders. I just spoke with Chris a few seconds ago and he said they are caught up on all but 84 orders as of right now. So all orders should have went out either yesterday or will go out today (with the exception of those 84 that they're working on now), and we apologize for the delays. Our shipping team is working as quickly as possible.

I'm not a scientist or chemist either, well technically I am a scientist since my degree says so, but that's irrelevant here We recommend using H2O Guard & Gloss as intended and not diluting it down with water inside of the bottle, as it could give undesired results as seen above. I know most of us on here are detailing enthusiasts and will play around with trying different things with products, and that is fine, but in this case, if you do decide to dilute HGG down, that is not something we will warranty if it causes issues inside of your bottle.

No matter what I did with my first S10 with the "dumbo ear" mirrors as everyone calls them, they would keep water pooled in them (this was back when I was in high school and had never even heard of Adam's or a Blaster Sidekick yet). Since I bought the truck off of my dad and it was his work truck for many, many years, it wasn't in the best of shape, so I took a cordless drill and put one small drain hole through the bottom of each mirror...it wasn't the best looking solution and I would never recommend it for a vehicle that you care about the appearance at all, but it worked and it has made me wonder to this day why manufacturers don't incorporate some type of drain channel for side mirrors. Now I just hit every annoying water area with the Sidekick and I'm good to go. Sorry, back on topic now

Hi Brian, The rain water or hard water from the hose could still be causing water spots to embed into the layer of Paint Sealant as the water beads and sits on there. What part of the country are you in? It could even be something like slight acid rain that is causing the water spots to etch into the sealant and Buttery Wax. When you wash your STI, are you making sure to wash the whole vehicle before rinsing off any of our Car Shampoo? Adam's Car Shampoo is pH neutral and will not stain or strip wax if it is let to sit and dry on the surface as you wash, so it is better to let the Car Shampoo dry onto the surface rather than rinse the vehicle after each panel and let the hard water sit there while you wash the rest of the vehicle. You mentioned super sealant, do you mean our Machine Super Sealant? If so, that product would be several years old now and might be reaching the end of its shelf life at being effective, especially if it has not been kept in a relatively temperature controlled environment for the past few years. That particular version of the sealant required for it to haze up between 30-60 minutes before buffing off the residue with a microfiber towel, and then you could not layer anything else on top of it for up to 24 hours, including the use of Detail Spray. Our Liquid Paint Sealant (now simply just Adam's Paint Sealant) is an updated version of the Machine Super Sealant that you have and is much easier to work with.

When it was all done, there was about 2 feet of snow that fell in less than a day. Not everyone is prepared to handle that Wow, that's a bummer Hopefully it comes back better than ever! It gets extremely windy in my neighborhood (50+ mph gusts are normal) that were so kind to do some damage to the flashing and siding of my garage. Temporarily fixed for now. I used to drive up to Syracuse a lot for my old job. It was always interesting driving with snow piled up 4-5 feet on each side of the TBSS down some roads. Never got stuck once ​

I have never had #0000 Steel Wool scratch any exterior glass yet, but you have to make sure it is the Ultra Fine 0000 version. You do not want to use it on tinted or frosted glass, rubber trim, or paint though. I always suggest trying something like Brilliant Glaze to clean the glass first though if claying doesn't remove everything. I've also used our Correcting Polish and Finishing Polish with a machine on glass before, but you need to be careful with respect to machine pressure and vibrations on the glass.

Hey Everyone, A big snowstorm hit the area last night and is continuing this morning. FedEx contacted us to say that they unfortunately will not be picking up any orders today What that means for you if you have one of the 400+ orders in our system, and the order is fairly large or heavy and would go out as FedEx, is that it will most likely ship out tomorrow or Friday instead. We received a huge amount of orders for the 16th Anniversary Sale, and we truly thank you for that! We are working as quickly as possible to catch up on the orders from Monday and Tuesday! We apologize for the inconvenience and thank you for understanding. Respectfully, Dan@Adams

Blue Dawn dishwashing soap will strip off wax and so on, but it can be difficult to rinse clean and it can be more harsh on weather stripping and dry it out, especially if it hasn't been treated in the past. If you're going to clay, polish, and seal afterward the more difficult rinsing may not matter as much to you, but 2oz of APC mixed in with my Adam's Car Shampoo works fine for me.

I melted plastic bag and partially melted an autocross cone on the longtube headers on my GTO before, never fun to clean up, lol. You did a great job there though, excellent shine

And a lot of people found the 36oz spray bottles to be too heavy to hold during a full detail, so that was another factor in eliminating that size

Agree, with Chris and Chris. It also comes down to how hard or soft the clear coat is on a particular vehicle. The clear on some cars is soft enough that Finishing Polish and a white foam pad might be the solution for very fine swirl marks, but other cars might need a more aggressive pad and polish combination to get the same results.

I just did a 2011 Silverado a few weeks back and it had a fairly hard clear coat but I got it to correct fairly quickly with the 5.5" orange microfiber pad on the Rupes 15, then finished up with a white foam pad and the Finishing Polish. Heavier scratches did not come out easy, so I hit those areas with the Rupes Mini and a 4" microfiber pad, but the swirls came out pretty quick. This 2012 C6 Z06 I'm working on right now also has a very hard clear coat...even a cordless drill with microfiber pad isn't taking out some of the heavier scratches easily. It really didn't have any swirl marks in it to begin with though, as the owner takes very good care of the car. I just think GM clear during this time period was pretty tough overall. Make sure to shake up the Correcting Polish thoroughly. Has this particular bottle worked good for you on other vehicles that you said were no problem with the Flex? Paint Correcting Polish replaced two products, Severe Swirl Remover and Swirl & Haze Remover, when it was introduced. Then it had a small formula tweak in August 2014 to make it finish down better and have even less dust. The current formula in the 8oz bottles has not changed since the update in August 2014. Here's the thread where Adam explained the change: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/26941-paint-correcting-polish-just-1-step-id-love-your-input-please/

Great suggestion Randy, I will pass it along to Matt and the developers! Thanks

Showtime. Interesting and entertaining show, but very not kid friendly, lol. It originally started in the UK from what I remember, then they made the US version a few years back.