THE Mook

I use Single Softs.  I use one for each panel...sometimes two for each panel.  I don't let a towel I have used get "grit guarded" and touch my paint again.

That paint is not your friend.  My wife's Mazda has similar clear coat to it, and without the use of a Merino Mitt or other high end wash media, I will get marks back in it, with even brand new, clean wash pads--11x11 or 9x9.

I try to teach anyone I am around with a machine this:

1.  Brush your pads out as soon as you are done using them.

2.  Blast the face of the pad with APC while you clean up your tools and area.

3.  Head over to sink and with as Hot of Water as you can stand, start to clean the pad like a paint brush, until the water is no longer murky.

If you are having trouble getting wax out of a pad, try hotter water, or mixing in a dot or two of Dawn.

Liquid Paint Sealant is IMO intended for use with a machine.  If you did a full paint correction, you had a machine out...

Unless I am misunderstanding post #3...why did you choose to use it by hand?  (Even though it says it can be applied by hand on the site and label, the intent of the machine is for Even Application....so that you don't tiger stripe a car.)

One can make their own filter via parts at Home Depot, if they don't care where said parts came from.  I tinkered briefly in making a couple long before the "test" units Adam's had were in house.  

I would think with a little research, and around $125, one could make a decent, in-line filter.

You want to use Revive on a Black or Red Pad.  Although the White Pad has zero cut to it, IMO it's not fine enough to handle Revive.

Speed 3 on the PC, and you are moreso spreading it than you are trying to cut with it.

I've had Goodyear hoses at my hose since I moved in back in 2004.  None of them have failed yet, and I keep all of them but one, outside 365.

After using a LOT of the machines out there, I prefer the Flex3401VRG.  Followed by the Rupes21, the Cyclo, then the PC.  (Throw the 4" BP on the PC and it's my 2nd fav machine)  I love the heck out of the Flex PE-14-2 Rotary.  I haven't used the Rupes Duetto...yet.  

Coming straight from the rotary world, the Flex is a much more natural feel vs trying to learn a PC, Cyclo, or other strict, dual-action machine. 

Here's my next therapy session...

That knobby mitt will not cause swirls (smh). Geez it's amazing what people say on here.

Quality wash media and good technique will prevent swirls, whether it be wool, microfiber or foam.

 

There's a simple reason why you would use a wool mitt on the top 1/2 of the car , it's because it's the most expensive and delicate wash media so you want to use it on the least soiled areas of the car. The other type mitts are more "disposable" so they get used on the lower halfs and dirty areas.

There are some high quality knobby microfiber mitts out there. If Adams sold them, the two responses above would have been way different.

Just my $0.02.

Chris, mitts like that are generally frowned upon because there are so many junk-quality ones out there. They are usually what you would find in big box stores and auto parts stores.

 

If you take the time to search out one that is high quality, then they are a perfectly fine option for washing. If you find/found one at the local Auto Zone....I'd save that one for cleaning plastic fender liners.

+1 - perfectly said.

THAT.

Anyone reading this thread...if you wonder if your wheels are clear coated...take a polishing towel with a little metal polish on it.  rub the clean wheel a little bit.  See Black?  NOT Clear coated.

Since yours are clear coated, you will want to treat them like paint when it comes to maintaining them.  Are you getting a lot of brake dust?  If so, either look into Ceramic brake pads to reduce that, and DWC is going to be your best bet.  If you don't get a lot of dust, GWC is a great cleaner.  Car Shampoo and Water make about the best non-aggressive cleaner you can use however.

Once every few months, I would strip wash, Revive, then re-apply the QS.  HEAVY on the barrels.

I have the orange hex head applicator for the old swirl & haze remover. What else could I use it with.

Paint Correcting Polish in a pinch.  Really oxidized metal with MP #1.

The handle on the Buttery hex is stiffer foam, the faces on both applicators are the same foam, different color.  I prefer the Buttery Hex as I have a little arthritis.

Well right now the 4" pad is the ONLY reason why I still have my PC and haven't sold it. Figured if I sold it for $80 and bought the drill attachment I could free up some space in my garage and make $40.

With the 4" attachment, the PC is a little beast man!  

IF you have a PC already, I don't see the need for this tool.  This seems like something marketed towards a weekend warrior, more than a detailer...

GREAT concept though!

Adam has spent a lot of time and money on his Instructional Videos.  Watch these a couple of times combined with the advice from this thread, and your Scoobie will be swirl free!

Steve, you may want to just give Matt a call to figure it out. 

Sealant goes to bare clear coat/paint.

Wax goes over the top of Glaze and/or Sealant.

Congrats to Sam for making it this far.  We were pulling for her in my house, and FWIW, I think she has a better voice than the other girl from last night, and the song selection the past two weeks was less than desirable to show off her real talent.  

WAY TO GO SAM!  Keep on truckin!

Bottom line here with a dual action machine is YOU ARE CREATING FAR LESS HEAT than you would using a rotary tool.  Thus, the amount of clear coat you are actually removing with something like a PC is almost negligible.  Conversely, with a rotary, the spin from the head is creating a lot of heat and friction, thus, while working faster, can and will remove more clear coat.

I know on modern cars, paint is always as thick as a custom job.  You could probably polish until your arms fell off, or would have to do something really, really out of the norm to strike through your clear on that Camaro.

Get a baking pan out, dump some baking soda in it, place it on your floorboard.  Overnight it should help.  Leaving it out in the Sun, with the windows cracked, will also speed the process up.

So am I correct to say that this can be used DIRECTLY on paint?  If yes, do you need to re-wax or re-seal when it is used?  Also, there is ZERO issues when using this on ANY wheel surface (painted, powder coat, chrome, etc?_

 

 

Thanks

RC

If you are using it as an Iron Cut type product on paint, make sure to test a small spot out first.  The two or three times I have done this on White paint, I made sure the surface was cool, and a little wet.  DO NOT let DWC dry on powdercoated wheels.  You will have to polish it off.

Also, DWC was designed for heavy brake dusting.  If your vehicle doesn't justify using such an aggressive cleaner, GWC, is a better choice.

Great question! I wonder how it'll work on exterior plastics like mirrors, cowls... For cleaning purposes- prep for dressing.

 

For years I've been under the impression BG was just for paint. (Slaps forehead) missing out all this time

BG was not designed for plastic.  Your mirrors on your bike are plastic?  

BG goes great on paint, glass, mirrors, chrome, and polished billet.

Sure hope with the water intake, the gloves don't shrink up on you.  

Like Nick mentioned, go clean your grips man!

I've used Metal Polish on the bands if it's metal, Leather Cleaner if it's leather or rubber, and only use BG for the glass portions.  I clean my watches a LOT so BG is perfect for me.