THE Mook

I have a "Lawn and Leaf" contraption I bought from the local Big Box home store.  Essentially I turned it into a MF hamper at home.  It cost me $10 and now I have dirty towel storage.

Having a little experience with Polycarb tells me that you need to be really careful if you choose to use a machine on it.  It Will burn.  I would test a small spot, with something like a Cyclo or PC with a White Pad and Finishing Polish to start.

Heck a step even less aggressive than that with Adam's line is doing the Revive Hand Polish with a Blue Hex.  I know you mentioned the Novus system.  I don't have any experience with it. 

Where are the Kwazar bottles made?  I tried googling quick and didn't see anything..

 

I hope not China like the bazillion other manufacturers..

Poland, I believe.

There you go.  

I personally tested this ALL of last summer when Rinseless was in it's infancy.  It works IMO better in all aspects as a Waterless Wash, than the current WW, however, I believe the current WW to actually pre-soak bugs a little bit better.

I know I am bringing up an older thread but I am looking into a foam gun for the regular garden hose. Can anyone tell me what is the difference in the models of Gilmore Guns? (95,  75 ect..) Also I see that the Gilmore Guns on that large internet buying site say that the Gilmore Guns are "Made in USA" What was the reason that Adams stopped carrying them?

 

Thanks,

Ron

They may say they are Made in the USA, but snap the plastic cover off the nozzle, and POP....Made in China.  My experience with the Gilmour vs the Hyrdofoamer Foam Guns tells me the Hydrofoamer is a better tool.  I like the foaming action better.    There currently to my knowledge isn't a Made in the USA Foam Gun for sale.

Thanks for the replies!

 

So essentually, if I leave the finishing polish residue on the car while i complete the whole car, I can wipe away all at the same time and that won't affect the job?

Wiping off polish residue in between steps with the Adam's Correction and Polish System is a little bit of an energy waster as the Diminishing Abrasive Technology in the polishes themselves allows you to "climb over" steps.  Again, this would be something to utilize after you have your formula down.   Essentially polishes are two things in this case...liquids and solids.  The liquids in the polish help break down (in conjunction with a machine) the micro abrasives in the polish.  When you are left with nothing but a Vasoline-y type residue on the car, after you have worked the polish to flash...all that's left is the leftover liquids.  I WOULD however, if you are sealing the paint, make sure you have the Finishing polish residue removed 100%.  Some people like to use an IPA wipedown before heading into sealant.  I myself like to finish with Glaze and Wax.  More therapy for me.   If you are using BG in your application, you can go all of the steps through BG, then knock it down before you wax.

Hope that helps!

From my days working at the Warehouse I can attest to how hard it is for Adam's vendors to keep up with the demand from you guys.  It's crazy!  I am glad to see the Borderless Blues replacing the Single Soft towel.  It's a superior towel.  Those were always either in abundance or out of stock...never in the middle.  

I know Nick and Matt and the team have been working HARD to get this new system up and running, in an effort to eliminate backorders/out of stock occurances.

That's a great question.  I always suggest to people that once you have your "formula" for that particular detail down...move how it will make you stay comfortable.  If you are comfortable completing the detail 2x2, around the whole thing, then do it.  A lot of folks will take the formula from said 2x2 section, and then execute one step at a time, on the whole car, before moving on...in an effort to save time by not having to constantly switch pads/juice.  

IE

If it takes one pass of each polish, most will do the correcting pass on the whole car, then step into the polishing pass, and so on.

If you are going for absolute perfection...stick inside that 2x2 area, and do the whole car like that.  I did my TBSS in 18"x18" sections to get it where I wanted it.

From testing, I have two of the, maybe, upcoming, spray bottles.  I prefer not to have a dual action head, so I use the Adam's 36oz. Black Spray head.  I love that spray pattern.

This is what a Foam Gun from a hose will give you:

This is what a Foam Cannon from a Pressure Washer will get you:

I guess you need to see which is closer to your expectations when it comes to Foam.  The Pressure Washer is a great way to go if the car or truck is absolutely filthy.  The mixture in the Foam Cannon from this shot is 50% Car Shampoo, 50% Waterless Wash.  

In the Foam Gun on the hose, I use 32oz. of Water with 4oz. of Car Shampoo.  The big differences between the two are such that the Cannon's Foam will stick a LOT better than the Gun's Foam.  The Gun's Foam certainly doesn't cling like the Cannon, but it does provide a nice layer of lubrication between the Wash media and the surface of the car or truck.

Sure. Fine.  Like I needed another reason to "pretend" the wife told me to record it!

 Can't wait.

My second favorite reality show!  Good luck to her!  Last season had some decent talent on it!

I would use Waterless Wash to keep it clean until the paint is done outgassing, some 90 days after it was sprayed.  Like Chewy mentioned, you could end up trapping pores with the DS because of it's wax boosting technology...which could lead to some horrible paint issues.

There is a GREAT Dealer in the San Antonio Area.

Jason Toscano is his name, usually has it all in stock, and is personable like no other.

Matt, you doing this from the ground or a lift?  If you have access to a lift, use it.  Any time I am working in my Engine Bay, I make sure my fenders a first cleaned, then I use an old Great White, like other people on this forum do.  I usually tape it up pretty good inside the "Hood shelf".

Dylan had posted a killer How To....HERE.

I have some information posted on this forum also...look at POST #9.

The truck is a 2011, so the badges and stickers have been there a bit.  The truck has previously been kept in a garage but who knows how difficult it will be.

 

Never considered using a clay bar to help soak up the adhesive.  The eraser wheel just scares me to look at.  Heat gun......heck no....wouldn't trust myself.

Heat gun is easier than it sounds.  Keep the gun a good 18" off the surface, and "wand" it over the badging.  ALL you are trying to do is warm the adhesive up so you can pull on it a bit.    

Parking it out in the hot sun, then trying to pull them is the least aggressive.

Heat gun would be in the middle.

Eraser Wheel will be on the aggressive end of things.  

I tend to use plastic razor blades (go one direction only) in conjunction with a heat gun, WW, and clay bar, to remove badges and their residue.  Clearly there are a ton of ways to do this.  Just be careful!

Always a good rule of thumb if you want to try a towel on your paint:

Take it to the back of the CD you aren't listening to anymore.  Wipe it along and see if any marks were left on the CD.  When you see those marks, you KNOW that will happen to your paint.

I use those towels to aid in drying out engine bays, in places where I don't even want my "good" utility towels touching, and for cleaning around the house!

_____________________________

Never sacrifice towel quality in hopes to saving a couple bucks.  I have been around here long enough to see some really great towel deals pop up that are more than fair to your wallet.

I will have to agree with Chewy.  Your daughter needs to see the value in, and also how easy it is, to maintain a clean interior.  There can be some breathing hazards by not cleaning and detailing your interior, because of all the filth and ability for bacteria and the like to grow in those conditions.  This is an excellent opportunity for you to teach her the right way!  Heck, get a little tool bag and a few interior products to be stored in the car, so she can keep things nice and tidy once a week, once the "reset" happens.

I did this for my sister about a month ago on her new Edge.  Maybe it's because she's prego who knows, but she really took well to it!

Good luck!

What's the mix ratio for APC with shampoo for strip wash?  Thanks!

You can mix anywhere from 2-4oz. of APC into the Car Shampoo bucket for a good strip wash.  I have noticed that it takes a SOLID strip wash and some IPA to remove the Adam's QS.  

Congrats on your new toy man!  I bet the wife will fall in love with this thing!  I love it!

Monthly strip washing is overkill and, depending on what you use to strip wash, could be bad for your car. Regardless, you would be creating more work for yourself having to re-seal every time. Let the sealant do its job, it lasts for a lot longer than one month. Regular washes + monthly BW will maintain your protection and shine. Strip washing is normally for when you need to start with bare paint for a full detail (clay, polish, seal).

I'll echo this.  The MSS or LPS or even QS was developed to Last.  No need to strip and re-apply unless it's degraded to a point where you are not getting any tight beading, or there is some latency there.    If you applied MSS or LPS or QS 2x a year, and touched it up with Buttery Wax every two months...I see that as being right about right.

Justin,

I used the Flex for a majority of the car...and the Cyclo for parts the Flex wouldn't get.

Thanks!

I use Waterless more often than not anymore.  I find that I can use less product because of the lubricity, and still remove surface contamination.