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Posts posted by THE Mook
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Happy Birthday Dude Buddy!
- Team Adam's and BrianT
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The 36oz. sizes were discontinued because there were too many sku's vs what the 36oz. sales were providing. Add in, that in most juices at that size, Adam's margin probably wasn't quite where it need to be to justify stocking Labels, Sprayers, Bottles, etc, just for one size. To boot, the straw extensions for the 36oz Foaming heads were discontinued.
Offering a higher quality bottle, that is unlabeled, in that size, allows people like me to fill it with the Juice I actually need in a bottle that size. APC, DWC, GWC. I do keep one with DS in it, for clay purposes.
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You are correct Garsnow. MSS is just fine to protect tails.
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I hate to bring this thread back from the dead... BUT... What are the steps for a proper Isopropyl Alcohol "stripwash"?
1. Clean vehicle with two bucket wash.
2. Dry vehicle.
3. Claybar vehicle using DS.
4. Remove clay residue with clean Microfiber towel.
5. Locate IPA and another clean, plush MF towel.
6. Spritz panel (being cautious of trim and plastics) with either 70% or 70% IPA diluted 1:1 with water.
7. Use clean MF towel to remove what you just sprayed.
That *should* leave your paint nice and stripped for polishing/protecting.
Shine on man!
- mtnbiker326 and rimz808
- 2
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Jim, although it's not designed to be used by hand, the Blue MF applicator is your tool there. Make sure you thin the heck out of it.
In my opinion, Quick Sealant outlasts even the LPS. It's an amazing product. Also, designed for hand purposes.
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I haven't used the Griot's machine but my understanding is it's a re-sleeved, China made (like all of the polishers that look similar to that model) Porter Cable. Porter Cable 7424XP is also a nice polisher. I own one. The good part about the Cylco for someone who hasn't ran a machine before is the lack of vibration and little amount of pressure one has to use to get the job done. I know that when I first made the switch to the PC from the rotary side of things...it was a little bit rough trying to learn the pressures and such of that style of polisher.
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I think the Cyclo that Adam's sells would be a good fit for you based on what you typed. There are a multitude of decent polishers out there. The Cyclo is the only one Made in the USA. Also, I believe Adam's offers a Lifetime Warranty on that machine. If the paint on your car isn't in good shape and needs an extensive correction, figure to have it done right you are looking around $400.00 to get that polished out. Have you ran a machine polisher before?
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So you put a Glaze under a Sealant?
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My friend Justin at Swan Creek Auto Care in NJ has a Matte Black Bike...here is a snippet on his advice...
Justin@SwanCreek said
Flat matte paint is all together a separate beast within itself when compared to a single or two stage paint job.
Why do I say this? Because their is no margin for error when dealing with flat matte paint. They tend to be temperamental with detailing products, and the use of any waxes, polishes, or polymers will send you to a paint shop right away.
So let me start out with the don'ts:
- don't wash in the sun!!!
- don't clay bar
- don't wax or glaze
- don't polish by hand or machine, no matter what the cut is (this includes revive)
- don't wipe down with any type of quick detailing spray
- don't use cheap micro fiber towels
The reason why you do not want to use any of these steps or products on a flat matte paint, is because it will add a slight luster to the finish. This luster will ruin the flat mattes appearance, and the end results will send you to a paint shop for correction (new paint). Also, cheap micro fiber towels can scratch the finish... And as I have previously stated, you never use hand or machine polishing on flat mattepaints. Therefore if you do scratch the finish with a cheap micro fiber towel, you will be in need of a reprint.
Now let me move onto the do's:
- when you wash the flat matte paint, ensure the vehicle is cool to the touch and that you are in a completely shaded area.
- do use waterless wash for wipe downs
The reason why you want to be in a completely shaded area and have the paint cool to the touch, is to prevent any risk of hard water spots. I recommend having your water tested to ensure you do not have hard water before completing a wash. Hard water and flat mattepaint does not mix well! Once you have hard water spots on a flat matte paint, the options for correction are extremely limited. Note: make sure you move quick while washing, and dry immediately!
So what do you do if you get hard water spots? Take action quick, use some of Adams glass cleaner with a single soft towel and gently wipe down the effected areas. Refrain from using any type of polishes!
And when it come to scratches on flat matte paint, you are limited to only one option... Repaint.
I personally own a flat black motorcycle, and when I have to clean it... I only use waterless wash. I never let it get to the point where I need to take a hose to it. The reason for this, is because I do not want to risk hard water spots (as I have hard water).
If you have any questions, or if I have missed anything feel free to ask!
Thanks,
Justin -
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I have a flex, but I need some new pads. I used dawn as an example because I know it breaks down all the waxes and polishes. All my trim is stainless and never seen a neg from it but again. I'll take a recommendation if it's there. I've waited this long, so I guess waiting a little longer to wax won't hurt
Dawn can be known to be harsh on plastic trim and such. If your trim is metal, probably ok, although a couple oz. of APC mixed into your Car Shampoo bucket is still a safer way to go.
I think you'll enjoy the results of Adam's correction/polish duo. Really a great couple of products.
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Your order seems ok. I wouldn't personally do a strip wash with Dawn. In my opinion, and a few others around here, it's too harsh on trim. Are you machine polishing? PCP has more micro abrasives in it, and NO filler, as opposed to what I am understanding from Z5. Americana is worth waiting for instead of Buttery.
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From your post, it seems like you are a little confused between polish and wax. At the end of the day, polishes are there to remove defects from paint such as swirl marks, light scratches, oxidation, water spots, etc, and also provide a level of shine to the paint when finished. Waxes are there to protect what you just did as most polishes don't have wax in them. Sure, some companies sell a "cleaner wax" which kind of confuses both products. I always tell people if they want some sort of paint cleaner, don't use a cleaner wax, but Revive Hand Polish.
Most of the time, polishes like Revive will not have grit in them (no corrective properties), but do provide great cleaning and shine qualities that allow you then to wax it when you are finished.
Traditionally, Paste Waxes will last longer than a liquid wax. Paste is hard on it's own, much more durable and taller on the paint than something that has been turned into a liquid form for ease of use. Paste will also provide more depth and yes some shine too, but remember the shine should already be there from polishing...more of a wet look in your paint vs a liquid wax. From my experience with the Adam's line, Americana Paste Wax holds it's durability a LOT longer than Buttery Wax.
I have very limited experience with Zaino, but have never heard anything but good about them. The Portland Sales rep is a really nice guy also.
- Team Adam's and Chewy
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- Team Adam's and mc2hill
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There's a great dealer near you in San Antonio.
Welcome.
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Adam has his towels made in small batches. From time to time, people will see a slight hue difference between the same towel. Heck, I probably have 5 different shades of White for the Double Softs. Shouldn't be any difference in performance.
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Nice re-porpoising!
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I love Glass Sealant on things like Granite Tops and other solid surfaces.
I prefer myself to use BG on all of my interior glass inside my home because of the smudge factor.
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Only machines I have at my disposal are the garbage Walmart single speed random orbit polisher with the foam pad built on, so you can't swap pads. The guys in the service dept have a DeWalt rotary with wool pads that I can probably borrow, but I'm too scared to use it. Then I have my own machine, which is the Harbor Freight variable speed DA polisher with a 6 inch backing plate to use 6 or 7 inch pads. So far, I have only tried that Novus crap and no other products. I tried it both by hand and with the garbage Walmart polisher, which gave slightly better results than by hand but not by much.
And I have 4 panels to polish, two are about 6 foot high by 12-14 feet long, and two are 6 feet high by about 5 feet wide. Its a pretty big aquarium, 13,000 gallons to be exact. I'm thinking about bring my HF polisher to work and maybe trying the Adams PFP first with a white pad on a small area first, if that doesn't do the job, then try the PCP with an orange pad, then go back with the PFP. If I have to pish this whole dam thing by hand, it will take me a week! Lol
DO NOT use the DeWalt on that! Too much heat...ALL heat! Try your HF polisher around speed 4 with the White Foam Pad and PFP.
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Really dig that color in the sun!
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Better book my flight now.
Finally! Won't take the Mook a whole day to get there! Just about twenty minutes!
WTB: foam gun..
in The Garage Sale Forum
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The one Adam's used to carry IMO is better than the Gilmour in that the Foam is nicer, all cocktail mixtures being even. It's called the Hydrofoamer.
http://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Systems-SP4191-Hydrofoamer-Kit/dp/B002J6FZRQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396280877&sr=8-3&keywords=hydrofoamer