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Posts posted by GerryC
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+1 on being a good car to practice on, but one of my most hated things about detailing is trying to dry a car that has no protection on it, much less one that's never been clayed. A rental is not worth that aggravation to me, not to mention potentially ruining your good towels and wash mitts.
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Unless you have single-stage paint, everyone is dealing with clearcoat, not color.
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Add to cart button is back....but I don't know if they are guaranteed to be in stock...
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-1020-new-adams-borderless-blue-microfiber-towel.aspx
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I think Adam's should sell both. 16x16 and 16x24 borderless should be sufficient offerings, as if someone wants something thicker, they can opt for the larger towel and fold it an extra time. Plus, they would come in at a much easier to swallow price than the double softs, which, IMO serve more as a luxury item than anything else. I have two and rarely use them for anything outside of final DS wipedowns after washing, and that is something the borderless can easily accomplish for half the price.
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I need some more towels for use with Adam's rinseless wash. How are the new towels better? Can you give us an update regarding when they will go on sale? I don't want to order a bunch of the current towels if the new ones will work better for rinseless use. I'm a 5' 4" woman so my hands are a lot smaller than most of you guys probably have, so bigger isn't an advantage to me.
I don't want to see bigger towels either. 16x16 are a good size for me
The larger towels actually fold down into a smaller size than the smaller towels do.
16x24 -> 8x6 vs 16x16 -> 8x8
Only difference would be the larger towels, when folded this way, will be about 1/4" thicker.
Personally I like 16x16's for wiping off polish and wax residue, since you can lay your hand flat on the 8x8 square with your fingers spread out to really make sure all the residue is wiped off. 16x24's are good for stuff like rinseless washing because you not only get more surface area, but the narrower shape of the folded towel gives you better control for "rolling" the towel surface across the panel without pressing down.
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I do mine outside, but not in the sun. Find shade, or wait for overcast days, or do it early in the AM or later in the day when the sun is not at its peak. Wash the car and then do the entire clay-polish-seal/wax process to one panel at a time. I explain in more detail in this topic: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/26295-its-springdamn/?do=findComment&comment=415385
One other suggestion would be to keep a spray bottle full of cold distilled water on hand and use it (and a clean waffle weave towel) to cool down your panels in between steps as you work
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Welcome to the internet.
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This one's titled "There's no way that's your daily driver" from the album "Stuff People Say To Me At Car Shows"
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Nice garage, Nick. I wish I had half that amount of space.
Car didn't come out too bad either
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I put the soap in first and then use a low flow from my sink to fill the reservoir, on an angle as if you were pouring beer from a tap, to prevent suds. Few gentle swirls of the container to mix it up, again, without creating suds, and you're ready to go.
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Try multiple outlets of course just to be sure.
^
My PC has shut off on me a few times, but only when using one specific outlet. Used a different outlet which is all alone on its own circuit, never had any problems since.
Also, George, make sure you are using the correct gauge of extension cord with your Cyclo.
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How I hand-wash my towels: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/24216-washing-machine/?do=findComment&comment=384988
Blue microfiber pads can work interchangeably just about every product. Overall it depends on personal preference and need. Clean them with your towels, or simply spray some APC and rinse it out.
Americana will last a long time when stored properly, and it seems you're already storing it properly. I still have some from the original batch back in 2009 I think it was. Still works fine.
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Depends on the finish of your wheels. Since you mentioned wiping them with SVRT I am assuming they are matte? QS would be the best solution unfortunately. I don't think wax on a matte finish would work out so well. SVRT is a good option to go with though, it will help keep dirt and water from sticking, you'll just have to apply it more often than if you were to use something like QS.
Another member has a nice writeup on caring for matte here: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/26544-caring-for-matte-finishes
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You would use QS in place of, or before, wax, especially if your car is a daily driver. Additionally, QS is great for protecting wheels, exhaust, etc. since it can withstand high heat.
Correct -> Polish -> Seal -> Glaze -> Wax
You don't have to use each step (for instance, glaze or sealant can be omitted) just don't jumble them up.
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Super VRT wipes off pretty effortlessly if you happen to get it on paint or glass. That is one of the many benefits of a water-based dressing as opposed to one that is oil-based.
Be sure your stripes are clean before applying the product, and after you may want to go over them with a clean towel to knock off any excess that didn't absorb into the stripe. This will help prevent runoff if the stripes ever happen to get wet.
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Personally I don't like spraying water directly on the engine. A. you get water all over the place, and B. you need to keep the engine running like Jason said to make sure you don't flood anything for too long. With the engine running it'll start to warm up, and the last thing you want to do is spray cold water on a hot engine.
I use a detail brush similar to the "trim and lug" brush, with a bucket of water and a bottle of APC. Wet the brush, spray APC in it and scrub whatever you want to clean. I do one area or component at a time. Dunk the brush in the water and then use the clean wet brush to rinse the area. I use utility towels to dry everything off.
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APC and a utility towel. If the residue is gone but you can still see an outline of the clay, then put a drop of polish on the towel, rub it in and wipe it off.
And if for whatever crazy reason all of that doesn't work, then 3M Adhesive Cleaner.
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What I did find that worked was a product called Bar Keepers Friend. Can be purchased just about anywhere.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bar-Keepers-Friend-15-oz-All-Purpose-Cleaner-11584/202290251
I use this stuff when cleaning my metal cookware. It's powdered magic in a can.
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I wipe the residue off with a waffle weave towel after finishing each panel.
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The long answer is they can't be mixed with other types of materials in the same load, and you can not use fabric softener. There are other topics that go into detail, here is a good one:
http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/24216-washing-machine
Everybody has their own methods to cleaning their towels. Whichever way you choose is perfectly fine as long as the basic rules are followed so you don't ruin them.
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Nick I think the Super Block applicator size is fine, no increase is necessary.
For tire/trim dressing I also usually get one of each size of these Blue Uber Notched Applicators from Detailers Domain on my orders, they are about the same foam stiffness as the Super Block, but easy to hold bc of the notch:
He also sells an Uber Red Waxing applicator which is softer foam (think Americana hex grip face, the red foam is the same as this applicator), and has a diameter of 4.5" and thickness of 2", just throwing it out there in case you guys aren't crazy about the UFO's (I personally think they are ok but these notched applicators are much easier to hold)
http://www.detailersdomain.com/Uber-Red-Notched-Applicator-Pad_p_245.html
Adam's used to sell these and I still have about 5 of them. Love them for tires because of the finger slot. I use the regular blocks for trim and such since I can cut them into different shapes.
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Ragg Topp is a good a fabric protectant.
2014 Black CTS
in General Detailing Discussion and Questions
Posted
Erik has you on the right track. I cannot stress enough the importance of perfecting a 2x2 area before doing the rest of the car. Learning how to correct your specific paint finish in an isolated area is key in saving you time and aggravation when you start doing the entire car. More info here: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/26535-the-right-order-of-detailing-your-car/?do=findComment&comment=419029