GerryC

At 85 feet above sea level, I have had bottles deformed, but luckily nothing ever leaked. They pop right back to normal once opened. I prefer the red plugs, but the seals are tamper-proof. Each have their benefits, really it comes down to personal preference. This is something that will always be 50/50 among the community. Like most, I have saved my plugs for re-use. They're made by caplugs if anyone is looking for more.

I do find the new clay to be much stickier than the old stuff. I store my clay in a relatively cool environment, so it isn't as much of a problem as it has been for others. Maybe keep your clay in the fridge? Or at least somewhere that doesn't get too warm. Take the clay out before you start, and by the time you're through with your initial wash, it should be thawed just enough that you'll be good to go. I know some people on here keep their paste wax in the fridge, so it's not as crazy as it sounds.

If they are painted and clearcoated, treat them as you would your car's finish. If you are running low-dust pads (ceramic, for example) then 9 times out of 10 simple car shampoo and water will be enough to clean them. Then follow up with sealant like Michael suggested. I would opt for QS though, since that wheel design is pretty intricate, and trying to get an even coat with LPS would time consuming.

nice car... why not just use all purpose cleaner? I also agree with beemer  kinda of extreme for a new car...

DWC is a de-ironizer and attacks metallic particles from brake/rail dust that may have embedded into the clearcoat. APC is a degreaser and does not remove these particles. New cars may still need this treatment, just like they would need to be clayed. When in doubt, use the baggie test. Regardless, decon before clay will make claying easier and safer, as you're removing the metallic bits touchless, before dragging clay across the paint.

Marcus, I use DWC to decon my G8 (ungaraged daily driver) once a year. I spray it on a wet car after washing and rinsing. I only work in a few panels at a time because you don't want to allow the cleaner to dry. Once it "bleeds out", I thoroughly rinse the sections and move on to another part of the car. No wiping. 

I don't know, the regular rubbing alcohol stuff that you use when you hurt yourself...

IPA is available in strengths from 40% up to 99%. Stronger alcohol would require more dilution to be safe to use. If it is too strong, it can cause the paint to swell and become soft. Of course this also varies from car to car, as no two models are using the same paint system; some may already have naturally soft paint. Just saying that there are too many variables to just strictly say "50/50", etc. My G8 has soft paint. If I used IPA 90 I would dilute 3:1 with water. If I used IPA 40, I'd do 50/50.

The ratio to water would vary depending on the strength of the alcohol you are using. Also, when using this method to strip your protection, try to avoid contacting any rubber or plastic trim with the alcohol.

Very little Super VRT is needed to dress hard non-porous plastic. Often, the residual dressing in your sponge is enough to do a decently-sized area. If you used too much, simply wipe off the excess with a clean towel, as stated above.

Panel by panel over the course of a week is how I corrected my G8 since it is an ungaraged daily driver. Do not strip wash the entire car though, only strip each panel as you begin work on it. This way the only unprotected paint is the paint you are currently working on. Do the complete clay->polish->seal process to the entire panel before moving on to the next one.

Either their DWC or GWC is suitable for wheels though.  They WILL remove your LSP which is why I use the shampoo method. 

I don't find this to be the case, at least with GWC. I've had the same coat of QS on my wheels since April, and have used GWC a few times since (I usually just use soap since I have ceramic pads, and as such, very little dust) and water still falls off of them.

Is it an actual "stain" as in discoloration? Or is it just an outline of where the bird poop was? It may be etched, which requires more force than you can apply by hand.

Not making excuses, just merely stating what I know based on experience that these factors contribute to delays. They are working to rectify these issues as explained by Adam, but it seems they are still shorthanded. I am a volunteer here and not an employee, so the most I can do is offer my opinion on the situation.

It is also worth mentioning that this is the busiest stretch of the calendar for Adam's in terms of volume of product demanded. There are quite a few multi-day events around the country this time of year - various shows at Carlisle (this weekend is Chrysler, and next month, Corvettes), Hot August Nights, etc. where selling out on day one and then overnighting for day two is typical. Add to this the fact that some of the team are out there at the shows, for up to 12 hours a day, away from their computers.

Everyone who is ordering but saying the order isn't processed: are you basing this only on the lack of confirmation emails? My last few orders I never received emails about certain things - shipping, processing, etc., but if you go to the website and click on your account -> order history, you should see the actual status and, if it's been shipped, the tracking number. Or email/call like Nick said.

The website is kinda buggy, sometimes stuff happens. Not sure what's going on with that software update, but in the mean time please double-check your order status in one of the suggested manners.

+1 for LED. You don't even need anything fancy. I've found that even the LED flashlight on my smartphone works quite well, since you can easily change the angle of incidence.

I've had numerous 16oz'ers deformed due to changing air pressure during shipping, but once they're opened they regain their original shape fairly quickly. Are yours permanently warped?

Quick Sealant on my lawnmower as well. One or two coats gets me through the year and makes cleanup a breeze.

Tough to judge even by the photo, but there may be hope in polishing that out. I had a similar issue last year and PCP on the 4" pads took made quick work of it: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/23891-new-2-step-paint-correction-system-discussion/?p=385520

Will the spots that got both steps of polish look shinier than the rest that only got finishing polish?

No, the shine will come from the finishing polish.

Corrected and smooth paint will bead water to an extent even without wax. Is your car garaged? Did you do the baggie test to see if it needs to be clayed? What is the extent of swirls that are in the paint? Sounds to me like your paint is just already in decent enough shape, which is good to know before you start your process, so you don't have to be as aggressive.

If you were to forgo sealant, then using BG in the manner he suggested would be a good time saver. Since sealant needs to actually bond to the surface (as opposed to glazes and waxes which just sort of sit on top of it) you should ideally have nothing between the paint and the sealant.

Sealant should go on bare paint, after polishing. Cure time depends on which sealant you are using. MSS, needs to set up for 30 minutes before wiping off the residue. LPS, ~10 minutes. QS residue can be removed almost immediately. I would put the glaze on after sealant, and then wax. If you are using MSS, you need to wait 12 hours before layering anything on top, and you'll need to give the car a wipedown beforehand. LPS, only about 30 minutes before layering, and QS can be layered almost immediately.

If you are using a machine without forced rotation (Cyclo, PC), put a visible mark on your backing plates so you can see how fast or slow the pads are spinning. Rule of thumb is to apply enough pressure that the spinning motion is slowed to the point where it would take 2-3 seconds for a full rotation. This way you maximize the power of the dual action (rotation and oscillation). Forced rotation machines can get by with just the weight of the machine because the rotation speed is mechanically dictated by the polisher.

If they haven't been subjected to any extreme temperatures, just shake them and they should be fine. 

Lots of light, and lots of contorting your angle of vision every which way. With sealant the residue is forgiving enough that you can still wipe it off with some effort, but I've missed some Americana residue in the past, didn't notice it until the next wash a week later, and had to put some RP on it to remove it then re-wax the area.

Or very French looking at it from the back.

If they made a smaller version it would be the French baguette.

I'll show myself out.

I really like how that video was put together.