GerryC

I'd dilute it least 50%. Some paint finishes are more sensitive to IPA and can temporarily "swell"

Revive can be used on new or old cars, it doesn't matter. If your car is dark-colored, you'll likely see some increased clarity by using Revive after polishing and before sealing/waxing. Isopropyl wipedowns will prep the surface for sealant/wax by removing any residual oil left behind from polishing. If you use Revive, you can still follow that with an Isopropyl wipedown. You won't be causing unexpected damage using these products.

Shouldn't the # be between 201-250 if these are the last 50 made? I thought the # you got was that # sold   

The Canadian Adam's site is really just an authorized dealer, based in Canada. They likely got their stock of Patriot from HQ a while ago and just now sold the last one they had.

If you're using a pressure washer, set it to 'wide fan' and you will be fine.

Issues with suppliers forced Adam's to discontinue a lot of accessories. The hex grips, for instance, had an ETA of 16 weeks, which is clearly unacceptable from any point of view, so they were dropped in favor of the "UFO" applicators for now.

The new PCP has the correcting power of the SSR, and it finishes like the SHR, eliminating the need for two products and two pads to accomplish one task.

LPS on white is the ticket.

QS is the way to go on wheel faces; the aerosol nature of the product gives you much more complete and even coverage on even the most intricate of spoke patterns.

The rear half of my barrels are rough, bare metal. I just used Metal polish to keep that part clean.

Made in America, That appeals to me already. Are they cost-effective? Or pricey?

Walmart carries a ton of different sizes. I have a few of these, and they were six dollars each.

Sterilite containers. Made in the USA.

Availability issues with the supplier. The UFO style pads are the same foam, just different shape and color. But I agree, the hex grip was perfect for hand polishing and waxing.

If anyone is looking for hex grips, the blue hex grip is still currently available on adamspolishes.com, and as always you can check with your local authorized dealer, as I'm sure they'll have plenty.

After an overwhelmingly successful turnout last year, Corvette Store & More is holding it's second annual car show on Sunday, May 4, 2014, from 9am - 3pm in Cheshire, CT. The show is open to all years, makes, and models (even motorbikes) and admission is free with a non-perishable donation for the Connecticut Food Bank. Food and live music will be provided on-site.

Corvette Store & More is an Adam's Polishes authorized dealer, so stock up on supplies at the show to save on shipping. We will also be having product demonstrations for anybody who is new to Adam's or has any questions about detailing their ride.

For more information, post here, or call Anthony at 203-710-9614

Corvette Store & More
312 East Johnson Ave
Cheshire, CT 06410

Less than a mile from I691 exit 3

So am I correct to say that this can be used DIRECTLY on paint? 

I have used DWC to decon the paint on my G8. I only did one or two panels at a time, while the surface was still wet with rinse water after washing and rinsing the car. This was done in the shade and the car was cool. Once I saw the red specks in the pic below, I thoroughly rinsed the panel(s) and moved on to another. After the whole car was done, I re-washed.

It likely does mess up your protection, but this is a step I only do once or twice a year at most, which is when I apply fresh sealant anyway. The car has already been strip washed before doing this as well.

Happy birthday

Just got done using 2step on my black car. Looks amazing......but......there are white specks all over the car. Tried using detail spray, waterless wash, washed the car with Adams shampoo, nothing is taking it off. If I catch a fingernail on a speck it comes off. I used glass cleaner on glass and trim and with effort it came off.

 

I really don't want to rub the paint I just corrected for fear of swirl marks.

 

Any ideas? Isoprpyl, pressure washer,clay??

 

Thanks in advance.

Did you clay before you did the two-step polish? Did you notice any of these specks before you polished? They could be dried polish, paint overspray, or something environmental. Try diluting some IPA and wiping down a panel to see if the specks go away. If you clay, you may have to polish some light swirls out. Least aggressive method first.

You coat of sealant will last for months and is protecting all the work you already did. When you are ready to apply glaze and wax, all you have to do is re-wash the car. Claying and polishing are only done as needed, and will strip off your sealant.

Yes,  the 4" focus pads were designed for situations like this where you need to concentrate your correction power on a small area. Just remember that the drill will mimic the actions of a rotary buffer, so keep the pad moving to avoid heat buildup.

Welcome to the forum, Jason. Plenty of stuff to learn here, so feel free to ask away. And show us some pictures of your car 

Tough to get perfect - especially black - on your first ever machine polish job. If it's noticeably better than before you started, that's a win in my book. Now that you're a little familiar with the machine and the process, it won't take nearly as long to polish next time your car needs it. You can always practice on someone else's car in the mean time 

I just received my cyclo complete kit and clay bar that came in two separate packages of 100grams each. In the video Adam shows that he uses 1/3 of the complete bar.

My question is how much should I use of the 100 gram bar to clay a f150?

Thanks for your help in advance.

Hi George. The clay bar in the video is an older version that Adam's no longer sells (one 200 gram bar). The new version is the one that you have (two 100 gram bars). Two thirds of one of the 100 gram bars would be the same as one third of the bar in the video.

However, detailing is never down to an exact number, exact size, or exact amount. Everyone's vehicle size and condition, as well as skills and personal preferences, are different. Use whatever size piece of clay you feel comfortable with.

36oz bottles were discontinued due to lack of sales yet you're going with a 1 liter sprayer over offer the half liter one. Don't understand the logic behind the decision but wondering if your also going to at least offer the half liter bottles at a latter date.

Regardless how tough the bottles are, he kind of has a point

The 36oz bottles were sold full, so the warehouse needed to stock a bunch of 36'ers for every product that offered it. Since the Kwazars are sold empty, the customer can decide what to fill it with from their own current collection. The result is a better quality sprayer for those who want a larger bottle, and much less overhead behind the scenes. Nick should be around soon to provide an official answer, but this is just my take on it from an outsider's standpoint.

From another post of mine regarding BW vs Americana:

Buttery is less expensive, and easier and quicker to apply and remove, especially in direct sunlight. If you are doing your detailing outside rather than in a garage this may be a factor for you. A coat of Buttery Wax lasts about 4-6 weeks, offers decent protection, and in my experience you can do 15 full size vehicles with one bottle. The shine is better than every other liquid wax I have ever used.

 

Americana is more expensive, it is pretty easy to apply but must be removed within minutes of applying, otherwise it will harden and become difficult to remove without significant effort. This will make applying Americana more time consuming (do only 1 or two panels at a time) but the end result is definitely worth it. Ideally you would want to apply Americana in the shade and on a cool surface. A coat of Americana will last roughly 2-3 months, again depending on wash frequency, road conditions, etc. It offers better protection than Buttery as well as a superior shine. You can do about 50 full size vehicles with a tub of Americana. 

 

When you do the math, the cost per application of both waxes is nearly identical.

Just giving you some reassurance 

Yes. Products that are forming a layer on top of the paint (sealant, glaze, or wax) need some time to "cure", so it saves you time to apply to the entire car and then wipe it all off later. The only exception in this case would be Americana, for the reasons mentioned earlier. You spread them out, let them set, and then remove the residue. Typically, if you were to start applying sealant to one area of the car, by the time you finish applying to the entire car, the area you started in is ready to be wiped off.

Revive is a polish, so it doesn't leave a layer behind on the paint. You work the polish until it's clear and then wipe it away. It won't hurt to do the entire car with Revive and then wipe, but it's probably easier to wipe once you've worked the polish in that area, since polishes don't cure.

Here is mine I just got in the mail a couple of hours ago. Looked a little low, but this was my first order so I was not sure how much they filled them up to begin with. 

This is a full gallon. The containers hold more than 128 fluid ounces, so the product will not be right up to the top. See Bluedog's post above for pics of his full gallons to compare.

For the record, in the past I have filled empty containers with exactly 128 ounces of water, to compare side by side with new full Adam's gallons, and found that in most cases you're actually getting a tad more than 128.

Forgive me if already been answered: Going to apply the Liquid Sealant today. A few questions:

 

1) When to wipe it down? Can I do my whole car with the machine and then wipe it down with the MF towel afterwards or is it best to apply it each panel at a time, then wipe? 

 

2) Cure time. I know the bottles says wait 30 minutes for it to cure. I read that others have waited 24 hours for it to cure. I plan to BG and Americana wax it afterwards. How long should i let it cure before applying those products?

 

Mahalo for answering these questions,

Ryan

1. Whole car. The only product that you should wipe off after every panel or so is paste wax, since it hardens very quickly. Keep this in mind for when you use Americana.

2. The 24 hour "cure" time you are thinking of only applies to the old product, MSS, which LPS has replaced. MSS required a secondary wipedown 12-24 hours after removing the residue, before applying a second coat. LPS can be topped after an hour, according to the label.