diver88

I might have a similar problem with clear coated polished aluminum wheels. they look good until you get them in to direct sunlight or lights at night then they look "cloudy" and swirled. I tried everything you have until I decided it was in the final finish of the aluminum before the clear coat was applied. might be your situation also. ?? good luck

what I see people do to their cars is a shame really. a neighbor will throw his microfiber towels (walmart type) on the ground while he's washing the car with a mitt that looks like you could clean a BBQ grill with it. I gave him some TW ICE I wasn't ever going to use and he thinks that's top end. as he shakes the leaves and dirt out of his MF towels he picks up off the ground to remove the wax.... he thinks I'm crazy with the three buckets/grit gaurds, foam gun, elect leaf blower and the plastic totes with snow white MF towels.

the blue face foam I have on my Revive pads is noticeably stiffer than the red or yellow face foam (the ones I have).. that why I asked, seems like Ryan said to use the Revive ? pad for Quick Sealant application..? if I understood correctly.

now I'm confused, unless something has changed.... the blue (Revive applicator) seems stiffer overall than the Red/Blue (Americana applicator). I was told some time ago the yellow (Buttery applicator) was exactly the same thing as the Americana Red/Blue just a different color so if I needed an Americana and didn't have one use the Buttery applicator while applying Quick Sealant. I was also told to use the Revive applicator to apply Brilliant Glaze, then later someone said no it was too aggressive for anything other than Revive (which I don't even own, bought them for Glaze, then told not to use them with it).. have the Blue Revive applicators changed because mine are noticeably stiffer foam than the others and seem too aggressive to apply Quick Sealant ?

I think the old machine superwax had a 12hour cure time... no , I was told that after you apply the Quick Sealant not to top it until it "cured" for at least 30 minutes. yes, you wipe it right off but some of the earlier videos showed waiting a few minutes and that was a disaster.. I couldn't get it back off. so after just appying it with a lite mist and a little on the pad working it both ways, I wipe it right off and it comes off nicely. but again, I was told no second coat or BG, or wax for at least a 30 min cure time. that may have changed this week though. it used to be suggested to put the BG right on top of wax, now its the other way due to the solvents mentioned above.

ok, Ashley told me I think that BG had something in it that would diminish wax, so put wax on top of it.. question is, after applying Quick Sealant and it cures for the required 30 minutes, will BG eat into the QS too? and then top with Buttery or Americana.

I've used more Waterless Wash than just about anything and I've got less than a half a spray bottle left, I guess I'll try to mix my own. I've been mainly using it on the low plastic stuff on the bottom of my car along with cleaning the disk brake dust off the wheels every time I come home. thanks I'll give it a try. I might even try the rinseless and try using less water around here.

I was told Waterless Wash was going away, and you can make WW with Rinseless Wash by adding water, that be about the same performance Adam?

Rich, going to keep this one a while.. I've got 2275 miles on it and I'm loving it more every time I drive it.. very comfortable, pulls strong but it's not a hotrod. moreover, I need to figure out the problems I'm experiencing with some of the products here. are the Hex Americana pads being replaced with something else.. I looked again last night for them so I could place my order on the sale and couldn't find them thinking I'd come back and look more and forgot about it and missed the sale, just emptied my cart out.

Hmmm, ok... thanks.

long overdue update, I ordered a Challenger and got it last May.. now I'm about to seal, glaze and wax for the first time and have been unable to get the red applicators for the sealer so I can apply the glaze and Americana. only applicators I have are ones I've used for the wheels. and still having issues with the microfiber towels linting and fibers sticking to the car with Detail Spray.. I have to use blue waterless towels to clear the mess. another I-phone pic at night.

WELCOME Donnie, like others have said I guess that smell is not good for you but like you I feel the car is still new if I can smell it. the "off gassing" kept making a film on my inside glass for 3 months or so, after that everything sort of calmed down. dirt stinks, so I keep things vacuumed out regularly and I vacuum up some carpet fresh to keep the exhaust on my vacuum from sinking up the car while I'm using it. my current car has leather so the leather cleaner keeps it smelling like new really. I park it in the garage with the windows rolled up, so I guess that helps too. my daily driver is a chevy p/u with cloth interior and it stayed new smelling for a couple of years and when it started to go away I noticed an open pack of Juicy Fruit gum in the console sort of mimicked the new vehicle smell of a chevy.. so for a long time I kept Juicy Fruit Gum in the p/u and Bounce dryer sheet under the seat.. I had folks comment on "that new car smell" for 5-6 years... after 15 years and 180K miles, not so much anymore. have fun.

does the glaze need to "cure" or can it be topcoated right away?

that's really good to know, but with washing multiple times and using APC my towels have got to be pretty clean since most have never seen sealers, polishes or waxes...most have only seen detail spray but I'll search for the "free and clear" laundry detergent for future washes. now I still need to clear that sealer "film" off the clear coat that seems to be causing my problem. like I said, I switched to clean, unused new towels and still had the issue. thanks, we'll get to the bottom of this eventually.

maybe that's part of my trouble. on many occasions I've sprayed them with all purpose cleaner to cut through the excess wax, detail spray etc.. wouldn't that remove the residue you speak of or is APC damaging to the single softs? they feel really soft, and smell clean. also, a suggestion on a specific liquid soap to use?

mine really haven't been used much, and always washed in cold water with Woolite, double rinsed, dried in the dryer on "air fluff" only, no heat. after I first experienced this I dug out a brand new/never used but washed once towel and same story. there is a film on the clearcoat after I applied the sealer, too heavy?, adhered to previous wax and detail spray, not wiped off fast enough, too much or too little humidity, not shaken well enough (I did have it over a year never used) I don't know... but I'm going to have to do a IPA strip, clay, polish, seal, glaze, and wax to see if I can get past this. currently it's really slick but not close to perfect sealed, glazed, buttery wax but if you spray detail on it you have to work very hard to get it off as the towel just "sticks" to the finish and you have to scub it to clear it. every time I touch it, I damage it further....I guess I have to get that film off before anything will improve.. it'll probably look darker and clearer too. thanks for the suggestions.

thanks Dylan, trying to get to the bottom of this. over the weekend I washed the car again and after it was dry I looked closely under bright lights and it looks like there's an uneven film that's sort of spotted. not sure but it looks like the sealer "mist" (tiny droplets) set up before I wiped it down and didn't smooth out. this doesn't really make sense though but possibly it seems like this already partially set up sealer was what made it a little stickier or grabby. I wasn't rubbing hard, just enough to keep contact with the car. I think I went pretty light on the application (watched your video a few times first) but maybe 3-4 minutes set up time was too long. humidity, lack of, left it on too long, little too much product.. don't know but just trying to figure out what went wrong where it doesn't happen again. when the car was clean I wiped lightly a clean single soft over the finish and it was slick but I could hear the towel on the clear like if you did a baggie test to check for needing a clay job. when I sprayed a little detail spray it was super grabby, I know wiping that was too much effort and would result in damage. I glazed the car, then applied buttery and it was super slick and shiny but just don't look too close for damage. next nice Saturday I'm going to wash and clay, then fine machine polish.. then try the quick sealer, glaze and buttery or americana. hopefully that'll clear it up.

your truck is black right? I would guess for any color (my experience) no matter how careful you are you are going to have to correct occasionally to keep that beautiful deep gloss. it's going to be work and you might not have to enjoy it but you have to not mind taking the time to keep it that way. black increases the freqency and the care needed between corrections IMHO. this is why I won't own a black, midnight blue, or dark charcoal vehicle... beautiful as they are I spend enough time and OCD effort to keeping my blue car and white pickup truck as perfect as possible. I swore my next vehicle would be silver but it might actually be Plum Crazy Pearl... good luck,

the clear on the car, and the clear coat on the new aluminum wheels. sorry that was confusing, I did talk about both.

like I said, maybe.. I thought I replicated what I saw on the video.. but one thing still doesn't add up. on a clean surface, sealed with quick sealer should any amount of wiping (a couple of passes) with a clean single soft towel lead to swirls and micro marring? this seems like you can't touch your paint without doing some form of damage. I thought using the proper products were safe, thus you improve the finish, I'm missing something here.

could be, I sprayed it on the pad then very lightly misted the hood. 3-4 minutes later wiped it off. came off pretty easily, I flipped the towel and wiped over it again to make sure I got it all and that's when it got "grabby". maybe I should have stopped after one pass(wipe) then 30-40 minutes later used detail spray to wipe it off?? I will say it wasn't as "grabby" on the wheels after the first coat and 30-40 minutes cure time. maybe that's the key. very light coats, don't overwork it, go back later...reapply. I used the wipe off single soft just to wipe over the hood on my pickup the next day after I washed it, did not apply any more product to the second vehicle and the hood feels and looks like I applied product. so just the fact it was used to wipe down the first vehicle was enough to seem sealed. hmmmm, that's a very light coat.

ok, make sense Dylan.. but should I have waited longer to wipe off, use detail spray as a lubricant to wipe it off? the "grabby" feel or "drag" as I described translates into friction and it seems to swirl things up, how do I keep that from happening? wrong humidity levels, temperature? great stuff, it's just the chicken and the egg here, I polish to correct, I seal to protect.. then I polish to correct............................ thanks.

ok, I finally got around to using the quick sealant. I washed the car well, dried it without using detailing spray and it still passed the baggie test so I didn't feel it needed the clay bar treatment. I watched the video (Dylan) on how to apply and went after it. it went on very easy, and after a few minutes I wiped it off with a single soft towel and I noticed it cleared really easy but also I noticed as I was wiping it away I was building up a lot of friction as it got harder to wipe. it's been over a year since the machine sealant, buttery wax and a bunch of detailing spray... should I have done an IPA strip before this quick sealer, could that be why I got the friction and a required correction? the car has 4350 miles on it and is garage kept, and I have this belief that if you experience friction to the point the single soft drags and feels warm, something is going to swirl, and it did. to the touch the paint feels otherworldly slick so this makes no sense at all. to make sure I didn't dream all this up I have a brand new set of polished aluminum wheels that I waterless washed and I applied the quick sealant to last night. using a single soft to wipe down, same thing... the towel started to sort of drag on the surface while wiping down.. I waited an hour and applied a dusting of a second coat.. after wipedown they were very shiny and slick but had visible swirls in the clearcoat. what's up, what could possibly be happening here? thanks for your help..

WELCOME Carl, I'm in Fort Worth..

I tried to buy another Mustang with a glass roof but the Ford dealers are big game players and I had bout all of them I can handle.. so looking elsewhere, probably keep the Mustang I have. thinking about it, if I can find a color I can live with... I planned for 3 years to get a new Camaro, until I drove one. I got to say I was terribly disappointed. couldn't see out of it, felt like I was sitting on the ground, could feel every pebble in the road before you got to it... I'm too old for that. I'm also a GM guy, only bought 1 Ford in my life, everything else has been GM. I drove the Challenger and it rides very nice, really quiet and runs ok (5.7LHEMI) but not spectacular.. but they have a really nice sunroof, something I can't get with a Mustang, and the Camaro's sunroof felt like it was in the back seat when I drove one. I don't know, getting rid of the P-Zeros off the Mustang and adding some Continentals might make it a little smoother, and if I had the nerve I'd have an aftermarket sunroof put in. but, the Quick Sealant sure did make the Grabber Blue shine and pop..