teamcrossworks

Thankfully I have a few spray cans left of Adams Quick sealant. Does anyone know why Adams stopped producing this product? I've used many different products over the years and I still think this product on the face of a wheel as a last step gives the most "pop" of anything I've tried. Is it cancer causing or just a diamond lost in a sea of other fine jewels?

Thanks for your thoughts...

Absolutely!

I always use it as a last "prep" after polishing before applying my top coat (ceramic, polymer coating or wax).

Thank you.

I was wondering how you would strip wash a car that has been ceramic coated?

A car came to me with significant swirls in need of correction but the owner said a ceramic coating had been applied recently. Normally I would strip wash, clay and polish. Any idea how to remove the ceramic coating or will it polish out with compound?

Thanks

My new favorite product is the Ceramic Boost used as a standalone. Easy to apply and wonderful shine and protection.

I seem to use a lot of microfiber towels during the process to get the best results, which is fine but...

My question is:  Is the washing process for my microfiber towels any different with a "glass based" product than with the polish and wax based?

I have my washing routine down but have been piling up the Microfiber until I know if I'm doing it right for the Boost contaminated towels.

Thanks for the help.

Thanks Chris, sounds like a plan.

I use H2O often with daily drivers and "customer's" cars. I just thought the Boost might be a "harder" foundation with more clearness (don't really know why).

My thought was to give the paint a nice foundation to protect it from an occasional bird bomb or similar nice day threats, then apply the glaze for some "pop" and finally some light protection and some more "pop" from a wax?

The 30 year old paint is is amazing condition except for feather scratches and I don't expect to have to correct it again for a very long time...  just my thoughts but that's why I ask.

I'll post pictures as I go if interested.

I'm experienced and very comfortable with Adams products... except maybe one...ceramic boost. I have not gotten into the ceramic stuff yet though I like the idea of just using the boost by itself.

Here's the deal...I'm finally getting around to "correcting" my Porsche 1987 944 Turbo (Single Stage Paint / Guards Red) and would like some input ...

Note: The car only gets driven on nice sunny days.

This is the order I was thinking?

wash

strip

clay

polish

brilliant glaze

boost?

maybe a wax if I'm still ambitious?

What do you think?

Bought it new: 1976 Gibson Les Paul Standard in red metallic (rare I'm told). I will post some pictures when I get home. The guitar is absolutely mint except for some very light scratching (probably from me wiping it down before I knew of microfiber). Since learning the "Adam's way", I wanted to polish it to make it perfect (of coarse) but never had the nerve.

I may first try my skills on a 1994 Fender Strat in the same near perfect condition to test the waters...lol

Thanks for the input.

I've wondered the same... even to the point of polishing out some light scratches on a vintage Les Paul. Just never had the balls to give it a try. I assumed the finish was similar to that of a car but possibly lacquer instead of enamel?

More input would be appreciated. Thx

Thanks everyone!

The first "before" picture was after using a pressure washer (always do, to answer Joel) and like I said two doses of Adam's Wheel Cleaner. I tried other wheel cleaners as well and they didn't even touch the stuff. I would consider the wheel coating (Chris) but as of yet I haven't made that purchase and I'm hoping if I keep up my normal wash routine they will not get as far gone as this. Since the car is a lease it will be gone before next winter but I will certainly prep better for the season than I did this year.

My neighbors think I'm insane for spending so much time on my car so thank you for letting me share with others like me...lol

I finally found the only product that seemed to get the "crud" off...  lot's and lot's of elbow grease!
 
I can't believe how difficult it was to get this sh*t off. The only thing I could think was that the "brine" they use for snow mixed with the brake dust and road grime creating a "hybrid crud".
 
I used two complete 16oz bottles of Adams Wheel Cleaner and a full bar of clay. It took me at least 3 hours a wheel (including polishing the barrels with a PC7424 / Adams Correcting Polish and sealing them with Adams Paint Sealant).
 
I hopefully will never be in this situation again.
 
Before: After two doses of wheel cleaner

will post pictures asap...

"Have you tried a little Revive to see if it takes the crud off!"

yes with no luck...

Thank you all in advance for your suggestions...

I have a 2014 Volvo XC90 and I guess I was negligent over the winter because I now have what I assume is baked on "crud" that I'm having a tough time getting off. The wheels are factory painted silver and I usually just use the old Green Wheel Cleaner (still have a gallon or so) (maybe some clay) and don't have too much trouble getting them perfect.

In their present state of filth, I've tried the old wheel cleaner, the new wheel cleaner (doesn't turn purple so I believe the brake pads are organic not metallic), Revive polish, some old swirl and haze remover on a MF, prep-sol (thinking it may be a tar like substance and just plain APC. Nothing seems to break down the "crud". Using clay or my finger nail I can eventually get it off but to do all four wheels would take me forever.

Any thoughts?

I'm thinking of selling both my Flex 3401 (used for a 1/2 hr once) and my PC 7424 (little use, maybe 6 hrs)

Both visually are perfect. No scratches or marks of any kind.

Unsure of what a fair price would be for each and looking for input and/or offers?

Thanks.

Unfortunately with having color-dyed products to easily distinguish them, they can and will stain towels. I have slightly pink-tinted Single Soft and Double Softs from wiping Detail Spray residue when claying, slightly blue-tinted Double Softs from Rinseless Wash, gray Single Softs from H2O Guard (before we started offering the Borderless Gray Towels), etc, mainly because I didn't soak or wash them fast enough after use; however, after a proper wash they're still just as soft and work as intended.

I figured as much. I will be ordering the gray towels to use specifically with the H2O Guard so I sleep better at night...lol

I've seen the video of Adam using grey towels when applying H20 Guard (which I love BTW) but I used the Double soft and now they are stained even after multiple washings.

Is this something I live with (can't really) or can they come clean?

TIA

Pulled it apart per youtube instructions and the "metal mesh" was totally gummed up with soap scum. I have it soaking in APC and expect whipped cream my next wash...

Thanks again everyone!

Thank you all.

Spring is finally here!!!   Nice warm day Thursday and I spent it giving my wife's car a much needed cleaning.

My foam cannon seemed to not work as well as usual.   I was wondering if anyone took one apart and cleaned the internals or a needed O-ring or such? Foam was more watery than usual and same soap content...

Thanks in advance for your help.

2 - 4 tube 8 foot fluorescent fixtures with 5000K bulbs. no noise, lots of natural light.    

There used to be a section for this right? lol

Just something I do that may (or may not) be helpful to others...

I used to forget which can of In and Out Spray or Quick Sealant I was using and which were the brand new ones - since I stored them in the same cabinet. I now use a paper hole punch on the cap to make a small hole to identify which one I'm currently using. Simple yet effective!

If they need it I will. This is the difference it made on my 1987 Porsche 944 Turbo...

I used the Rupes TA-50. Although you need compressed air, the tool and results were fantastic.

50/50

I'd say bust out a leaf blower or compressor to try and blow all the junk off at least savings are just scratch city in my eyes lol

Agreed!

Use compressed air to blow off the majority of dust and grit then go on to the waterless wash method.