eleven357

Here is what I have done before.
Wash and clay the car the night before you plan on detailing. (If your car is in the garage) You don't need much light for these steps and shouldn't get too much dust on the car overnight. Plus it gives the car a chance to totally dry and the drips to come out. If you plan on taping off the emblems and edges now would also be a good time for this very tedious process.
 
Starting early in the morning find a section on the the car that needs the most correction and begin there. As mentioned before give each pad a light spay of detail spray.
Start with the orange pad and SHR. I believe you can put 30+ lbs of pressure if you are using the Gen2 pads. Do a small section and go slow with lots of pressure. Once the SHR has broken down, wipe it off and see how the paint looks. If you are not happy repeat until the paint is near flawless. Now on the same section switch to Fine Machine Polish using the white pad using a good amount of pressure (might not need as much as when you used the orange pad.) Once broken down wipe it off and see how it look.
 
Now that you have the "process" that works, repeat that same process over the entire vehicle. For example: 2 passes with orange pad and lots of pressure, followed by 1 pass with white pad and FMP. For areas that are in pretty good shap you may be able to adjust the process.
 
Once you are done polishing you are ready for the LSP (last step process)
Apply the Machine Super Wax with the black pad. No pressure is needed as you are not correcting the paint.
 
While waiting for the wax to haze over I dress the tires and work on the wheels. Also clean the glass (any overspray will be removed when you wipe off the wax) and do the interior.
Finally remove the wax, I like to use the PC for this as well.
If i still have time left I like to apply Brilliant Spray Glaze and if I still have time another coat of wax.
 
This would be a full day of detailing and would probably end after the sun went down, but pictures can be taken the next morning.
 
I have done this before on my Jeep Grand Cherokee and completed it in one day, but it was a loooooooong day.
Good luck, have fun and post your pics

afters:

You'll be shocked with how thin you can spread wax with the PC
 
And when you put it on nice and thin it comes off really easy too
 
More isn't always better !!!!

agreed. You are faster on top end and will change directions and stop better.

This is a sort of step by step using various connectors to be able to attach the foamer to the Karcher. You just need to find the various male/male, male/female, female/female type of connectors that will work for you situation. The long adapter on the end is unique to the Karcher. You can get these parts at the same place you linked for your foamer, or at Home Depot/Lowes. I got mine at a garden supply store, for much cheaper than HD/Lowes.
 
 
 

 
 

 

 

 

Quite a while. VERY good stuff.
 
Did you know most "synthetics" aren't actually 100% Synthetic?
 
 
Here's a great place to learn a bit about oil.
 
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html
 

Here is what I have....(Note: all my detail microfibers/drying cloths were getting washed-I NEED MORE )
 
 
My Adam's Stash...
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
Close up...
 

 
 
 
 
 
Here is what I carry in my bag on "Show Day".....
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

:hi:Some of the time when I clay a car I do it after the car is washed and still has the soap on it ,the soap acts as a good lube for the clay,I first run my hand over the panel to make sure there is no grit. This is done in my garage never out in the sun, when done claying I rinse the whole car, works good!

Christopher, beautiful car:2thumbs:

Beautiful M5 Christopher! How many miles have you got on the clock, and are you still getting the jollies every time you push the start button?
 
I drove a friends one year ago in Scottsdale, and with 4 people inside, still managed to scare myself!
 
Great car, looks great, and thanks for being here!