OmniCamaro

Well, like others here I've tried Adam's bug remover and it just doesn't work, at all.  

Living near/on a lake in the south can definitely be frustrating when it comes to bugs.  I've used all kinds of coatings for the front and the bugs never get easier to remove.  Detail spray is what I've soaked them with in the past but I'm going to give WW a try this next time.  

Thanks to all for the tips here.  It's definitely a problem we have to deal with and it ain't going away; well, until winter comes around.  Another reason I love winter, lol.  

Are there any tricks to get your glasses a bit less reflective?  I know this goes against everything coatings-wise. 

Just an FYI post--I ordered the $99 mystery trunk organizer and the total of products I received was around $250.  Yeah some stuff I'll never use but that's a darn good deal.  I'll give away those items I won't use.  

On 10/22/2018 at 11:27 PM, Specialm5 said:

The interior detailer gives a low shine non slick finish on my weathertechs

I used tire and rubber cleaner and once dry used interior detailer, worked great.  It’s what I had on hand.  

Thanks for the tips all!

18 hours ago, ObsessedDetailer said:

The rubber mat cleaner adds a little bit of shine to mats. It’s one of my favorite products for sure

Some protection without being slick would be great.  

I’ve tried several methods and this one is by far the easiest way to remove that sticky black residue.  Keep the affected area small so your cleanup and/or correction and protection area is also small. 

All I used was carb cleaner and an Adam’s green glass towel (rough side).  It’s as easy as spraying it with the carb cleaner, give it a second to penetrate, and wipe it off.  I did remove a lot of the puffy part of the glue so all that was left was the hardest and thin layer of glue.  I chucked the towel afterwards but I’m sure with some time you could clean the glue out of it, or use it for something else.  

Post removal I used Adam’s correcting polish, finishing polish by machine, then by hand, sealant, Americana, then finally bugged by hand with Ceramic boost.  

Thanks everyone. 

I’ll give Adam’s TRC a try soon and take some before/after pics.  

Wouldn’t want them slick at all so I’m at a loss for what to use on my dirty floor mats.  Interior detail spray isn’t strong enough and I think I even used APC, still wouldn’t clean them.  

Suggestions?

Sealant should work wonders on all painted like surfaces.  That stuff is one of my favorites because it’ll stop anything from sticking to it long term.  

2017 Silverado Z71 hood while driving (I didn’t take the pictures?).  I couldn’t resist and these are through the windshield, if you couldn’t tell.  I haven’t seen beading like this before the CB. 

Garage kept. Full detail including clay, sealant, and Americana this spring.  Ceramic boosted clean paint about 2 weeks before these pics.  All Adams goods.  Detail spray in between, no washing. 

Great question and one I’d like more input on.   99% of us have chipped paint at some point.  I have always given my “repairs” at least a week before any machine buffing.  

Sweet $@# Chevy truck!   A dream truck of mine right there, have enough fun with it for me!

Can you put the ceramic paste wax on a regular detail job?   How does it do on fresh paint?

thanks!

As probably most of you know the scenarios, I’m the go to for especially elder family members when they need their car cleaned.  I always treat them as they are my own, except I only seal the paint, never wax-just too much work for me at this stage of life.  

Anyway, my mom in law bought car this past fall.  We have only been able to use waterless wash instead of Detail Spray, our go to, because the detail spray makes the car look like it’s covered in grease or oil, really weird and something I’ve never seen.  I’ve held off on stripping it because I’m not sure what’s on it.  

My question is, does this sound like a ceramic coating?  Has anyone use detail spray on ceramic coatings?  There’s something odd (odd that I have never seen the way my usual products react to it) on the paint.  It’s almost a rainbow effect streak like thing when using detail spray.  

Thanks all!

i wish I had pictures but I don’t and I won’t be able to for a few weeks.  Sorry for that.  

Spent the day setting up a good layer of protection on the wife’s new Malibu.

Clayed, sealed, buttery waxed. All set for winter.

And if you ever have any doubts about claying a new vehicle check this out. The top surfaces felt like sandpaper.

In my experience, if you have stubborn spots or the like that won't come off with regular cleaning, use an old clay bar.  Once clean, seal & wax like paint.  You could VRT the treads but use it sparingly and I would let them sit out in the sun for a while before trying to use them.  Test them to see if they are "slippery" and plan and/or clean off accordingly. 

I haven't used their "chrome" products yet so I can't say how they work.

Adam's Paint Sealant is KEY in my opinion!  That stuff is awesome. 

As long as there are several options available (Fedex specifically!), I'm good.  

If it's hot thru a glove ,its too hot lol.the scratch on your roof ,wet it with water does it dissappear?. What kind of machine are u using and how much pressure are u applying ?

I wear vinyl gloves and it definitely gets hot to the touch.  I use the flex3401, I start with the MF pad, add some polish with a spritz of detail spray, start slow and spread the polish then ramp up the speed and pressure.  After a few minutes I check for heat, If it's hot I'll stop, brush out the MF pad, mist some detail spray on it and then go back at it.  I use the Flex 3401 at a medium-high rate of speed (not the highest setting, just under).  

The paint on the Camaro (or most GM vehicles) is super hard and thin, from what I can tell from ownership of several late model chevy's. The paint chips horribly.  Not sure if sharing that info can help me or not.

It's hard to tell from the picture. But I'd start with a machine and correcting polish, 3-5 pounds pressure, don't let it get too hot, if that won't get it out, try the compound, if that doesn't work then try Adams drill attachment buffer, and then follow that with a machine, and if that doesn't work you might need touch up paint and to wet sand.

 

And if it gets hot then wait until it cools down a little. Lol you don't want it very hot.

Yeah I'm not good at taking pictures, sorry.  My method is above.  I really want to stay away from the drill attachment stuff but I have used the wet sand method on my Silverado repairing chips so I can do that pretty well.  I may just start with that on the worst ones that I'm sure the machine won't get.  

Thanks for the input guys.

Also, on the heat subject:  When is it "too hot"?  I usually move on or take a break when I touch the area with my gloved hand and it's fairly warm.  I just thought of something, I have a heat gun I can use.  Has anyone ever measured an area they are working on with a heat gun (the laser pointer gun that measures temp)?  That would be some good useful info to post here on the forums!

Don't mind the scratch looking dust everywhere.  Tried to get one of the scratches I'm talking about here.  It can be felt with a fingernail.

What can I do to remedy this type of scratch (center of pic), I have many that I want to see gone.  

Thanks!

That's because it's not meant for a flex. Says right on the website

Instructions and rules be damned! I'm the voice of the "other guys" that just want their stuff. No way can I purchase a new polisher just to have the holder. I'm making it work and just wanted to put this out there. And I did see that note when I got it.

I apparently can't use the drill attachment stuff, I damaged the wife's paint the very first time I used it, and the pad kind of fell apart on me. So I'm not going there again.

I've watched every Adam's video on paint correction many times.

I think if I get some good pictures it'll help a lot. I'll try to do that in the next few days.

I'll do my best to get some pictures. It's Silver Ice paint and hard to see so it's mostly just me being anal. One spot looks like keys were pounded on the roof. Stuff like that.

I know they're not through the paint. I do have the blue polish and have used it with the microfiber pad. My whole thing is HEAT, I check the area and if it's getting too hot I stop or move on.

Love the look and it's very well made. My only issue with it is it seems too shallow or something, the distance between the wall and the holder. I have a Flex and it barely fits in the holder, see pics. You can see there's a gap between the bottom of the polisher head and the holder, it's barely on there.