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How The Junkman Avoids Hard Water Spots - The Videos!


Junkman2008

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Hey boys and girls, a question that I get a lot is how to deal with hard water spots. If you ask anyone from detailers to your knowledgeable average Joe, you will get a slew of answers. Some folks have to get extremely aggressive with them, while other don't have to do that much at all to rid their paint of them. Because the answers vary so widely, I have decided to share my mindset. For me, prevention is the key. It's the same with another issue I get asked about, wax build up on the rubber trim. If you don't get wax on the rubber trim OR, you immediately address any wax or polish on your rubber trim, dealing with it is a cake walk. After watching these videos, you will see exactly what I'm talking about.

 

"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." These are words to live by with a lot of situations and when it comes to detailing, these words ring so true. Thus, keep that in mind as you watch these videos. You will see how true this is.

 

One thing to note. I allowed my car to stay filthy for a week just for this video series. By driving the car in that condition and touching the paint, I created some micro-swirls in the paint. Now they are so minor that they will easily buff out, even by hand with some Fine Machine Polish but this just shows you how damage can slowly make it's way into your paint if dirt isn't addressed immediately. This is why I wash my car 2-3 times a week during the summer when I am driving it often. I look at dirt sitting on my paint like brand new razor blades standing up all over my skin. It doesn't take much movement for one of those blades to start cutting. Dirt laying on your finish long enough will do the same thing if you disturb it. That's also why proper washing is so important.

 

Okay, on to the videos! :)

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgBJG_loTlQ&feature=channel_video_title]Avoiding Water Spots - Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUa_jGC7a7c&feature=channel_video_title]Avoiding Water Spots - Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

The Junkman

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Junkman

Great video. After watching this I had a question about washing you car on road trips. Several times during the summer I take may car overnight to a weekend car show or a family event and only have access to a public self serve car wash. What tips, methods, products products do you recommend for these situations? In the Midwest I always fight bug guts on the front of the car that I don't want sit on there for a couple of days and or I may be prepping for a showing after driving one or two hundred miles. Thanks for your input.

J.

 

I wash my car on the road pretty much the same way I do it at home. I bring everything with me except for my car dryer. Then I'll do one of two things. At the hotel that I stay at, I get in touch with the maintenance people and find out if there is an area where I can wash my car and use their standard garden hose. If yes, I bring my foam gun. If not, I find a DIY car wash in a nice part of town and spend a couple of hours at the car wash the night I arrive. I purposely plan my trips so that I can arrive very late a day in advance. That way, I can get the car cleaned before any of the events jump off. Sometimes I'll only bring 1 bucket and get a second bucket at Wal-Mart. That bucket get's donated to the hotel maintenance department when I leave. A hotel can never have too many buckets.

 

You have seen how water spots are not a issue on my paint so most of the time I'll do the spot free rinse. I can smell if their mixture is good and that will eliminate me having to hand dry the car.

 

If the situation arises where I do not have enough room to bring everything, I'll contact someone on the forum who lives where I'm going and ask for the use of their house for a wash. People hook me up with that kind of stuff. The last option is something that I have been known to do also. Leave it dirty until I get back home.

 

Here's my middle of the night picture after driving through the country side of Kentucky, on my way to Paducah. I always stop at this car wash and do my middle of the night wash. They even have electricity so I can run my polisher (which I always bring along too). It's a little obsessive I know but hey, that's what I do.

 

Arrived at 1:00 AM...

 

bugjuice.jpg

 

Fixed by 4:00 AM...

 

number_2ed.jpg

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Now I know where to find ya in the middle of the night!

I had hard water spots and machine correction is what fixed it. It was hand rubbed with bio safe acidic cleaner first.I had lots of calcium etc. They come off-but protect it afterwards. I have not had any since with Adams-americana and bg after MSW. took a few weeks to do this. Good luck!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

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One thing I missed (or do not understand...)

You say that you apply the Sealant in thin layer(s??)?

Let it dry.. (test dryness with sweeptest?)

Whipe it of... (microfibre cloth?)

THEN let it cure for 12 - 24 hours..

and whipe it again with detail spray (dry waffleweave towel?)

 

If you want layerssss of sealent, (why the ??? would you do that? ) you could apply the next layer after the detail-spray-whipdown ? Using the same technique?

 

I always apply 1 layer sealent 1 layer wax..?

 

Also, why not let it cure first? THEN whipe the excess product off...?

Also, why detail spray and not waterless wash?

 

Concerning the wax application. The "whipe on whipe off" technique goes for every wax on the market????

I doubt that, since some waxes states on their product information that it also needs to dry... A swipetest will reveal if the wax has settled on the sealant coat.

(Adam's is not yet available in the Netherlands so I have to use different products)

 

If the rest-product of Adam's wax has dried up, why use detail spray and not the waterless wash product?? (wouldn't that compliment the wax shine?)

 

Kind regards! Mel

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One thing I missed (or do not understand...)

You say that you apply the Sealant in thin layer(s??)?

Let it dry.. (test dryness with sweeptest?)

Whipe it of... (microfibre cloth?)

THEN let it cure for 12 - 24 hours..

and whipe it again with detail spray (dry waffleweave towel?)

 

If you want layerssss of sealent, (why the ??? would you do that? ) you could apply the next layer after the detail-spray-whipdown ? Using the same technique?

 

I always apply 1 layer sealent 1 layer wax..?

 

Also, why not let it cure first? THEN whipe the excess product off...?

Also, why detail spray and not waterless wash?

 

Concerning the wax application. The "whipe on whipe off" technique goes for every wax on the market????

I doubt that, since some waxes states on their product information that it also needs to dry... A swipetest will reveal if the wax has settled on the sealant coat.

(Adam's is not yet available in the Netherlands so I have to use different products)

 

If the rest-product of Adam's wax has dried up, why use detail spray and not the waterless wash product?? (wouldn't that compliment the wax shine?)

 

Kind regards! Mel

 

Okay, you've totally lost me so I'll just explain what I do again.

 

I apply MSW first, using a thin layer. It is a sealant and sealants need to be applied in thin layers or they act funky. Once that application is dry, I wipe it off. After allowing MSW to cure for 12-24 hours, I then come back and wipe the entire car down with Detail Spray again, to remove any build up or gassing of MSW. After that, I apply one coat of Americana. At that point I am done.

 

Does that answer your questions?

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Okay, you've totally lost me so I'll just explain what I do again.

 

I apply MSW first, using a thin layer. It is a sealant and sealants need to be applied in thin layers or they act funky. Once that application is dry, I wipe it off. After allowing MSW to cure for 12-24 hours, I then come back and wipe the entire car down with Detail Spray again, to remove any build up or gassing of MSW. After that, I apply one coat of Americana. At that point I am done.

 

Does that answer your questions?

 

This answers a few questions I had, thank-you.:2thumbs:

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sandi or junkman,

Could one of u link me to the junkman

Telling me how to properly use fmp.

I have got all the swirls out of my ride

After about 8 hours of shr and pc.

The paint looks great! Now tomorrow

I'm ready for fmp. Want best results and

Depth in paint as possible for pearl white.

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sandi or junkman,

Could one of u link me to the junkman

Telling me how to properly use fmp.

I have got all the swirls out of my ride

After about 8 hours of shr and pc.

The paint looks great! Now tomorrow

I'm ready for fmp. Want best results and

Depth in paint as possible for pearl white.

 

I thought that you had watched all my videos? My From Clay to Wax videos explain the entire process in detail. There's no difference from how you use FMP or SHR, they do what they do a little differently on different pads.

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