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Hard clear and stubborn swirls


GlossAngeles

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While polishing, for the first time, I have become quite aggravated by not getting the results I wanted. The car is a VW and I know they have very hard clears. So I had a couple questions.

 

1) Even though the clear is hard is it odd that 3 passes of severe swirl and haze remover will still leave many swirls looking untouched? It seems that the paint is getting shinier but the swirls are staying there.

 

2) What is an easy was to remove SVRT? MY tape won't stick to treated trim pieces.

 

3) Has any one ever smelled adams car wash shampoo mixed with some APC? It smells amazing! Like a strawberry limeade:thumbsup:

 

Thanks for your help!

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While polishing, for the first time, I have become quite aggravated by not getting the results I wanted. The car is a VW and I know they have very hard clears. So I had a couple questions.

 

1) Even though the clear is hard is it odd that 3 passes of severe swirl and haze remover will still leave many swirls looking untouched? It seems that the paint is getting shinier but the swirls are staying there. I've never had clear that ever needed 3 passes of SSHR. Are you using the PC or the Flex?

 

2) What is an easy was to remove SVRT? MY tape won't stick to treated trim pieces. The best way is when you did your strip wash, take a bottle of APC 50/50 (or even full strength)s pray on all the rubber and work with the boars hair. This will strip it nicely...just be sure the car is wet and you rinse thouroughly. You can also use IPA now that you are past that point.

 

3) Has any one ever smelled adams car wash shampoo mixed with some APC? It smells amazing! Like a strawberry limeade:thumbsup: I know right? To me it smells good...yet bad...but I enjoy it...then I don't. It's a smell I can't really describe:lolsmack:

 

Thanks for your help!

 

Answers (and questions)^^^

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I feel your frustration. I am working on an 02 Jetta now and it is taking a bit more effort. I am moving at about 1 inch per second (slow cut technique) at a setting of 6. This is an advanced technique.

 

Keep in mind you may get the effect you are looking for when you step down to SHR and FMP. Do a test area of 2 feet by 2 feet and step all the way down to fine machine polish and see how it looks.

 

Dave covered the rest.

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Yes I am using the PC. Thanks for the tip for removing the svrt the tape not sticking was annoying.

 

@dipolley: I was thinking that I might have not seen the results until I went through the process but just wasn't sure how to tell when to step down since the swirls were still there.

 

Maybe some technique tweaking and a lot more patience will get me the results I want.:xfingers:

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Yes I am using the PC. Thanks for the tip for removing the svrt the tape not sticking was annoying.

 

@dipolley: I was thinking that I might have not seen the results until I went through the process but just wasn't sure how to tell when to step down since the swirls were still there.

 

Maybe some technique tweaking and a lot more patience will get me the results I want.:xfingers:

 

PC...yeah, like the other gents said...slow 'er down a little bit. Check out the Junkman's video's he moves the PC extremely slow...but look at his results;) Don't forget like the others have stated, perfect that small area first, and then press on. Usually when people are making 3 or more passes of a product, the technique just needs a little tweeking IMO.

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Remember that when you are using the severe swirl remover you are correcting the swirls and scratches but at the same time you are causeing swirls and scratches. The SSR and green pad are abrasive, this is why you have to step down. Each step will correct the finish, and correct the damage the previous step caused. That is why it is a process. Think of it like sand paper, you have to go finer and finer. I will bet that once you step through the process you will start to see what it is you expect.

 

With a PC things tend to take a little longer until you get your process down. So be patient. You will get it.

 

Out of curiousity, what color is it?

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Remember that when you are using the severe swirl remover you are correcting the swirls and scratches but at the same time you are causeing swirls and scratches. The SSR and green pad are abrasive, this is why you have to step down. Each step will correct the finish, and correct the damage the previous step caused. That is why it is a process. Think of it like sand paper, you have to go finer and finer. I will bet that once you step through the process you will start to see what it is you expect.

 

With a PC things tend to take a little longer until you get your process down. So be patient. You will get it.

 

Out of curiousity, what color is it?

 

How do you know when it's time to step down though?

 

 

And it's a platinum gray, best vw color if you ask me:rockon:

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I personally didn't like the pc due to the fact that a lot of pressure needed to be applied and you needed to work at a very slow pace. By the time I was done, my arms felt like Jello.

 

yea the vibrations are pretty bad I would rather learn on the pc first though, rather than mess something up with the flex. Maybe in the future...

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Late update: So I finally got some time to do some more paint correction and decided to focus on something other than the trunk and hood. (which were giving me issues) All the other panel on my car look amazing now! Turns out that all of the little scratches on the hood and trunk aren't so little after all:(. At least now I know that I can correct my paint, if not all of it. Thanks for all you help :thumbsup:

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You should be able to significantly minimize or remove those scratches on hood or trunk so long as they are not beyond the clear coat.

 

The thing is my nail BARELY catches on them, to the point that I didnt notice it before. They are minimized and look better just not as perfect as I was able to get my other body panels

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Sometimes some of those deeper ones will come out, but think of them as eventually. Next correction session you can work on them again. If your fingernail is detecting them, they are pretty deep, and the best you might get is minimizing them.

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I am getting ready to do a Mercedes G55 this weekend.

 

I will be using a flex, will I be ok with SHR or do I need to step up to SSHR?

 

I did a Jeep and that CC was hard, how much harder should I expect the Mercedes CC to be?

 

Mercedes clear is extremely hard, use shr first, see if it did what you wanted, if not then step down to sshr:2thumbs:

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