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Advice Needed Please...


MKVI-DRVR

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First off, if this is in the wrong section please feel free to move mods...

 

I have a 2011 VW GTI in Candy White. The issue I am having is that I am not getting any correction using my products. I inspected the areas before and after full correction and see no reduction of swirl marks though the paint is smooth as glass afterwards.

 

I have this kit: Adam's Ultimate Flex XC 3401 VRG Polisher Kit

 

Those are all the products I use for my car. I have been detailing for a while now and am not extremely new to using these products, started out using a PC 7424 that I still use, but am dumbfounded as to why I am getting no correction. I do about a 2x2 section at a time with full, correction prep for polishing; foaming, 2 bucket wash, iron-x, clay, etc.. Is there something I am doing wrong? I used the Adam's Orange combo, pad and polish, followed by the white combo and still have no clearer paint, swirl free, than when I started. Is there anything I can do?

 

Sincerely,

Frustrated Deatiler

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Zach, Next time when you detail, tape off a 2x2 section on your hood and polish that and try to get it; to what you think is perfection. When you get the result your looking for, you will know how much effort and time it takes.

 

Slow down and take your time. The reason your not getting the results you wont is because your technique is probably wrong.

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I start out with slow throttle to spread the polish over the 2x2 area. Then at speed 5/6 I start to make passes. Back and forth over the 2x2 area until its covered, overlapping about 50% per pass then repeat it going up and down next. I do this until the polish is barely hazey/broken down. It usually takes me 30 seconds per pass; I describe a pass as once up or down within the 2x2 square. I thought this was a proper technique, but if there is a better one or a modification that I can do I would love to learn it! I want to get better and I will try new techniques to do so!

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Zach, Next time when you detail, tape off a 2x2 section on your hood and polish that and try to get it; to what you think is perfection. When you get the result your looking for, you will know how much effort and time it takes.

 

Slow down and take your time. The reason your not getting the results you wont is because your technique is probably wrong.

 

Agreed!!:pc::grouphug:

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:worth:

 

Zach,

Can you post a few pics, then confirm you are doing the following:

1) SSHR?

2) SHR

3) FMP

 

Wipe and review your results....

Sounds like it is flashing a little fast, you make want to slow you arm movement down a little, and drop the speed to a 5...

 

Just my 2c.

 

[m]

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First :worth: So post some up man!!! ;)

 

Zach I describe a "pass" as up, then overlapping about 50% going down, then 50% going back up again and so forth till I cover my panel or test spot all the way across vertically. Then I move side to side, in the same manner. Repeating those steps once or twice when I use the flex and 3-4 times depending on the polish used when I use the PC. That is what I describe as 1 full pass...you may need yet another pass using same polish/pad depending on how "hard" or "soft" the clear coat is before moving on to FMP

 

Have you tried a pass with severe swirl and haze remover?? Depending on how bad the swirls and damage is to the paint you may need either a pass or 2 of that polish OR 3-4 passes with Swirl and Haze Remover before seeing results that you want..again also depending on how "hard" or "soft" your clear coat is. I know when my IS300 was first corrected me and SRTLUVR needed I think 2-3 passes on the flex of Severe Swirl and Haze before we could step down to reg Swirl and Haze Remover, that's how frackin HARD my clear coat is :willy: lol!!

 

I can promise you this buddy, Adams Polishes and the forum community here will for sure do the trick helping you correct your paint and lead you into the right direction!! Post up some pics if you can and we all will help you achieve the results you're looking for :2thumbs:

Then post some after pics so we can all be doing this :jawdrop:

 

Edit: Almost forgot Zach, but from what I've read and been told (if I remember this right, hopefully someone else can confirm) VWs have a very hard clear coat. So like I said multiple passes may be required :pc:

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First :worth: So post some up man!!! ;)

 

Zach I describe a "pass" as up, then overlapping about 50% going down, then 50% going back up again and so forth till I cover my panel or test spot all the way across vertically. Then I move side to side, in the same manner. Repeating those steps once or twice when I use the flex and 3-4 times depending on the polish used when I use the PC. That is what I describe as 1 full pass...you may need yet another pass using same polish/pad depending on how "hard" or "soft" the clear coat is before moving on to FMP

 

Have you tried a pass with severe swirl and haze remover?? Depending on how bad the swirls and damage is to the paint you may need either a pass or 2 of that polish OR 3-4 passes with Swirl and Haze Remover before seeing results that you want..again also depending on how "hard" or "soft" your clear coat is. I know when my IS300 was first corrected me and SRTLUVR needed I think 2-3 passes on the flex of Severe Swirl and Haze before we could step down to reg Swirl and Haze Remover, that's how frackin HARD my clear coat is :willy: lol!!

 

I can promise you this buddy, Adams Polishes and the forum community here will for sure do the trick helping you correct your paint and lead you into the right direction!! Post up some pics if you can and we all will help you achieve the results you're looking for :2thumbs:

Then post some after pics so we can all be doing this :jawdrop:

 

Edit: Almost forgot Zach, but from what I've read and been told (if I remember this right, hopefully someone else can confirm) VWs have a very hard clear coat. So like I said multiple passes may be required :pc:

 

As a novice PC user, you bring up the same issue I am having a difficult time in determining. That is, the hardness of the clear coat. I'd say the learning curve with a PC is small compared with the understanding of each product. Knowing what to use, why, and when to use them is the tough part. I was only able to complete the wash, clay, detail trim, cleaning wheels process last weekend, because I was learning how to use all of the products and accessories on top of learning how to use them on specific areas on the vehicle, such as inside the trunk, hinges, etc.

 

I did want to try out the PC machine for the first time though, so I completed 2 passes with the Swirl/Haze remover and one pass with the Fine Machine polish in a test area on the hood. I'm fairly certain my car has a hard clear coat, as the swirls were only about 30% removed in my test area afterwards. I'm expecting I'll have to do 3-4 passes with the Swirl remover, and 2-3 passes with the Machine Polish to get the results I'm after. LOOOOOOONG weekend.

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I too would also like to know if you've tried the SSR before moving on to SHR?

 

Have no fear though. We'll keep providing suggestions to get you the final results. Pictures will also help as well although we know it may be hard to capture what you are seeing with a camera on white paint.

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Indeed. SSR then SHR then FMP. From there, Seal or Glaze, or both in that order, then wax. Try slowing your movement down, apply enough pressure so the pad mushrooms a bit, and keep it flat always.

 

Good Luck,

Mook

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Indeed. SSR then SHR then FMP. From there, Seal or Glaze, or both in that order, then wax. Try slowing your movement down, apply enough pressure so the pad mushrooms a bit, and keep it flat always.

 

Good Luck,

Mook

 

Thanks. Should be good. It sounds like I was applying enough pressure to begin with, and made the mistake of letting up on the pressure later on. I'm still on the fence about doing the severe swirl remover, because I have moderate to mostly light swirls. Then again, perhaps the Severe Swirl remover is necessary because my clear coat is pretty hard, yeah?

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It usually takes me 30 seconds per pass

 

WAY too short of a window... 30 seconds isn't enough time to break the product down in most cases so it sounds like you're stopping too soon. I've never timed a run thru, but I know its much longer than 30 seconds.

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WAY too short of a window... 30 seconds isn't enough time to break the product down in most cases so it sounds like you're stopping too soon. I've never timed a run thru, but I know its much longer than 30 seconds.

 

Minute and a half - 2 minutes at the most...is what you did at the demo last weekend. :D

 

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2

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