Green Machine Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 On a scale of 1 to 10 what are the cutting strengths of the new polishes?????? Just curious! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Baron_Von_Awesome Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 On a scale of 1 to 10 what's your favorite color in the alphabet? If you're only going to compare the two polishes to themselves, than the answer is 10 and 1. There's no context. How would you know if that strength is strong or right for your particular situation? The "1 to x" ratings you see for other polishes is not a universal scale - so an Adam's 9 is not a Sonax 6 but may be really close to a Menzerna 8 which is similar to a Meg's 4.5 but not quite a Chem. Guys 7.3, etc., etc.. On a real world scale, the Correcting polish is around P1500 and the finishing polish is P2500-P3000. The grit rating of each polish determines its cutting (or finishing) power and can be found by asking the mfr., in their marketing materials or, if you're REALLY bored, extrapolated by determining the amount of abrasives by volume - which is in the products MSDS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Feets31 Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Adams polish is an 11. It is just cuts one more better. Others cut at a 10, Adams cuts at an 11. It's just better/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrVCjnRdB_k Spinal Tap Antv20, toddimac and Green Machine 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 THE Mook Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 From my experience since the start of testing with the new Adam's Paint Correction and Polish Duo way inside of last year, I have learned to determine that Adam's Paint Correcting Polish is good to get out sandpaper marks as deep as 2000 grit and higher on a machine or 4" Focus Cutting Pad on a Drill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Green Machine Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 Frank thanks for your bloated answer!? Wasn't comparing it to other polishes. My car doesn't need major major correction so I was thinking that the finishing polish would take care of it ! Don't want to over correct if I don't need to do it!!!!! And Frank I am just teasing you. Thanks for the answers guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chewy Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Finishing polish on their MF pad will do most OK paint jobs, but their Correcting polish on an MF pad will hammer out some of the worst paint in a HURRY! I used the white foam pad on my Flex on the G8 to get a very nice finished product. I find it's easier to get a "jeweled" look with the foam over the MF. MF is for never corrected paint IMO. Foam and the new polishes rock! The new polishes made my PC and the 4" pads a completely different animal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Baron_Von_Awesome Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Frank thanks for your bloated answer!? Wasn't comparing it to other polishes. My car doesn't need major major correction so I was thinking that the finishing polish would take care of it ! Don't want to over correct if I don't need to do it!!!!! And Frank I am just teasing you. Thanks for the answers guys! I always make sure you get your money's worth with my answers You're definitely on the right train of thought - just see what finishing polish by itself can get you - less is more! Especially when there's a finite amount of times you can fully polish any car. I'm always surprised what I can correct with a finishing pad and polish; even on cars with notoriously "hard" finishes. Green Machine 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Team Adam's Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 The golden rule of detailing is to always start with the least aggressive method first. You can always get more aggressive if needed, but once a process is done you can't work backwards. I'd start as fine as Finishing Polish and white foam to see where it gets you. If that doesn't quite get the job done step up to the white mf pad, obviously testing these approaches in a small area first. Continue to step up polish/pad combos and test until you find what works. When you find the combo that works then knock out the whole thing. Green Machine 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Mick Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Hi Dylan, On the two step process, when can I hand apply the revive? I used the swirl and am now ready for the correcting polish. Should I hand apply the revive before or after the white polish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chewy Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Mick, you say you used "swirl" is that short for "swirl and haze remover"? If so, that and SSR were replaced with Correcting Polish so I would move on to the white Finishing Polish on a white pad which should finish down to a perfect shine and NOT require revive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Mick Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 I used the new correction polish. I then used the white finish polish. After that I hand applied the blue revive. This was done on a black SUV. Looks good. I know no pictures. Chewy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Redbeard Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 (edited) I used the new correction polish. I then used the white finish polish. After that I hand applied the blue revive. This was done on a black SUV. Looks good. I know no pictures. The Revive might not have been absolutely necessary after the Finishing, but you did it in the right order since it is the least aggressive polish. I don't know if this is the correct terminology, but in practical terms I consider Revive more of a pre-wax "cleaner" than a polish. Edited October 8, 2013 by Redbeard Chewy and THE Mook 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Mick Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Ok thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chewy Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Revive IS a pre-wax cleaner. Some put the cleaner in the wax (semi-scam) and some leave it out. Revive is great for the guys not willing or wanting to take the time to correct the paint, or that don't have a machine. I see no difference using it after the finish polish. I'll do a IPA wipe down after correcting my paint to cut any oils left over though. Redbeard 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 whitechevy3 Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 What does a pre wax cleaner actually do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chewy Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 What does a pre wax cleaner actually do? Removes light oxidation and contaminates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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Green Machine
On a scale of 1 to 10 what are the cutting strengths of the new polishes?????? Just curious!
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