HFX Detailing Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 (edited) Summary Hey folks. I have done a few write-ups now and I try to emphasize a certain technique or portion of a detail with each post. Today's winner is the scary and avoided interior detail. I enjoy the interior as you can get intimate with the vehicle and release dirt that has been hidden in crevices for years. This post will be a bit different than the rest of mine. Instead of having money shots at the end, I will have a picture intensive how-to so you get a better idea for what I did. I will warn you, just because this is my technique does not make it correct or safe . . . please do your research and ask questions if there is something that sticks out to you. Enough chit-chat, lets get down and dirty! The Products Total Interior Detailer: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-924-adams-total-interior-detailer.aspx Adams Detailing Swabs: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-925-adams-interior-detailing-swabs-10-pack.aspx Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-35-adams-carpet-upholstery-cleaner.aspx Glass Cleaner: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-54-adams-glass-cleaner.aspx Utility Towels: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-579-adams-edgeless-microfiber-utility-towels.aspx Carpet and Upholstry Brush: URL Not found (older product) Single Soft Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-588-adams-single-soft-towel-is-back.aspx Buttery Wax: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-992-adams-buttery-wax-new-formula.aspx Hex Applicator (Yellow): URL Not Found (older product) Waterless Wash and Waterless Wash Towel: http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-1071-new-adams-waterless-wash-towel-combo.aspx Ridgid Wet/Dry Vac An empty 24 (see pics below) The Process To kick things off, here is how I transport my cleaning supplies. It is an empty 24 case of beer that has sockets for each beer. It just so happens that they fit my adams bottles perfectly, as you will see below: This makes carrying the products very easy. I use to just throw them in my wash bucket, or a big bin. This way they do not move around, and I can still manage them easily. I started with the Door Jambs. They have not been done in awhile, but were not too bad. I used Waterless Wash and a Waterless Wash Towel to clean this portion. I sprayed a bit of product on the dirt and gently wiped the dirt away. As you can see, the towel got very dirty. This meant I had to flip the towel often to get a clean spot. You do not want to scratch the door jambs, polishing them would be a pain! Next, I used Buttery Wax to give the door jambs some extra protection and to make cleaning easier next time. The result was going from this: To this: Along with going from this: To this: The shine achieved was satisfactory: Once the door jambs were all done, I vacuumed the car. I took the mats out to make sure the dirt underneath them was done. I used my Ridgid Vacuum which has a mat option as you can see below: While using a brush, be careful around embroidery and edges, the thread can pull easily. Here is a 50-50 (close enough) shot of the mat after a quick vacuum. To make sure I got out the dirt, I used the Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner and Brush. I sprayed a bit on the carpet and scrubbed. After, I used a Utility Towel to blot the mat to get rid of the dirt and excess cleaner. The result was going from this: To this: Once all the mats were taking care of, I moved onto the interior floor. I used a smaller hose piece to get all of the corners and sides of the car. The same attachment I used for the crevices of the seats. This vacuum has enough power to handle this no problem. I also used a softer brush for the seats themselves. You want to be careful because you do not want to pull up the threads. I use little to no force and let the vacuum do its job. There was a nice salt stain on the rear floor that I tackled. I sprayed some Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner on the spot and agitated it with my finger. I then used a Utility Towel to pick up any dirt and excess cleaner. Here is a shot of the left stain being removed, while the right stain was untouched. For the right stain, I used the Carpet Brush to agitate it (you can choose either, or) Finally, we have a stain free rug! Next I get into the nitty-gritty. Using a Detailing Swap I get into crevices. Some people argue to use cotton swabs as they are cheaper. Personally, after trying a Detailing Swab, I will not go back. They don't leave cotton behind, they are durable, and re-usable. I typically use two swabs. One with some Total Interior Detailer on it, the other to pick up excess Detailer. You will notice one swab is dirtier than the other. The first one goes in first, the second makes sure all the dirt was taken care of. This lets me easily get to areas not reachable before. Taken my cup holder from this: To this: I like to hunt for crevices not usually cleaned. Such as this hood release latch. Here is the before: And after: I also find the swabs useful for controls. Make sure you do not have a lot of product when you clean these areas, you do not want liquid in the buttons! This looks easier: Than this: When using the Total Interior Detailer on the dash and plastics, I spray some on a Utility Towel and then wipe away. Here is a before and after of the plastic around the door area: From this: To this: If you cannot tell, the Total Interior Detailer not only provides UV protection, but brings a nice deep color back to the interior. Here is a 50-50 area where there was Interior Detailer, and no Interior Detailer: And, the same spot fully wiped down: Some spots, just Total Interior Detailer is not enough. You will need to use Leather and Interior Cleaner, followed by the Total Interior Detailer. Here is a spot where salt splashed up (from cleaning the carpet) and dried on the plastic: After spraying the area with some Leather and Interior Cleaner, and a fresh Utility Towel, the Interior Detailer was used (with a separate towel). Here was the end result: Using the same method, I cleaned this badly scuffed and dirty side step. Here is the before: And After: That is all for now! Here are some (few) after shots: The rear door: Shifter: Driver Console: Dash: Like I said earlier, this was not perfect. You can still see some dirt here, but it cleaned up well for the most part (this is a decision you must make, how clean to go. You can spend 1 hour, or 10...but what benefit does it have to you, and the customer). Passenger Side: Passenger Seat: Passenger Looking In: Bonus: Pro Tip #1 Always point the blower of the vacuum away from the vehicle Bonus: Pro Tip #2 Turn dome lights off when the doors are open (I have drained batteries before by not doing this) Bonus: Pro Tip #3 When doing windows, if you are having issues reaching tights areas, wrap the Window Microfiber around your hand like so: This allows for you to have stability, and get tight areas. I use my finger tips (or finger nails) to get into tight areas along the edge, and corners.My thumb keeps the clothe wrapped up tightly. Bonus: Pro Tip #4 Always clean your vacuum after. This helps prevent build-up, reduce risk of blowing dirt, and keeps maintenance down. If you ever waited to wash a towel and regretting not doing it right away...this is the same thing. Here is the inside of my vacuum after one session (it was FULLY cleaned before hand): Here is what a BRAND NEW filter looked like, after one session: That's it for now! Questions? Comments? Edited September 5, 2014 by neverhaveiever Black Bowtie, CTFocusST and Aaron@P2PQD 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HFX Detailing Posted September 5, 2014 Author Share Posted September 5, 2014 Does anyone know why some of the images rotate? I notice this in some of my other post. They are the way they should be on my computer, but after uploading them, some of the images are rotated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoomerSooner Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 Nice job in the interior. Those swabs are life savers. HFX Detailing 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWolf Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 Never have I ever read such an excellent write-up on the interior detailing. Good job! How many times can you wash one of the swabs before it wears out? HFX Detailing 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marylander Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 Great write-up! HFX Detailing 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HFX Detailing Posted September 5, 2014 Author Share Posted September 5, 2014 Never have I ever read such an excellent write-up on the interior detailing. Good job! How many times can you wash one of the swabs before it wears out? Thank-you, I would say using them wears them out more than washing them. I wash them carefully by hand. I spray a little bit of microfiber rejuvenation on them, and if need be All Purpose Cleaner. I VERY gently rub them with my fingers while rinsing. I have only ever ruined one and it was using too much pressure while the swab was too wet. I was using the tip of the swab and moved side to side, the plastic stick ripped through the swab. I can still use it though, for vents (it is still in tack, there is just a hole, the plastic is not exposed). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron@P2PQD Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 Awesome job Jerome, I learned alot from this. Thanks for the detailed write up HFX Detailing 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky Bobby Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 I applaud you for using original Keystone boxes! We were Keith Stone (keystone light) drinkers in college ourselves, a few 30 racks of stones were so smooth! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HFX Detailing Posted September 5, 2014 Author Share Posted September 5, 2014 I applaud you for using original Keystone boxes! We were Keith Stone (keystone light) drinkers in college ourselves, a few 30 racks of stones were so smooth! Never tried the light ones. I have keystone and keystone ice. I enjoy them. They are made by the same brewery as coors. as far as I am aware. The box works PERFECT. When I first saw the inserts, I thought to myself, there is NO way those will fit my bottles. Little did I know... I have to drive pretty far to get keystone, so I only get it when I am already driving through the area. A 24 here is about $42-$50 and a 24 of keystone is $30. So I paid $30 for 24 beer AND an amazing container for my bottles (car cleaning supplies, not beer ) Awesome job Jerome, I learned alot from this. Thanks for the detailed write up That is what I like to hear! thanks Aaron@P2PQD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael@Adams Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 Great write up! A detail isnt complete without the interior.. Loved all the pics too, well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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