I give up... for now!

[PT3]

Maybe my car doesn't need 'correcting'... Maybe I just can't see the damage?

 

Either way... I tried my Cyclo again yesterday.  The car was NOT driven in about 18 hours from the night before.

I thought the overcast would be sufficient 'cover' from the sun to do it outside in the middle of the day.  Well, the polish was still 'flashing' (I think) much faster than it does in the videos I've watched.  I used DS to help keep the pads from drying out.

I did the orange pads first then the white.

 

In the end, I can see ZERO difference.  

 

So, without the proper (indoor) area, lighting and paint color that 'shows' the correction... I am storing my Cyclo away until I get my new place with proper garage and toy cars.

 

I'll just focus on keeping my M clean and waxed.  I did find my new favorite Adams product though... PATRIOT WAX!  Bam!  What an awesome product!

 

I got it in a mystery box one time and thought, I'll never use it.  Well, yesterday after I couldn't see a diff with my Cyclo, I decided to try Patriot.  One word... AWESOME!!!

[TheBurninator]

How warm was the panel? Working without a garage gives some interesting challenges with polishing.

 

Do you have a good LED flashlight? It would probably help you identify any haze/scratches in the paint.

 

What kind of pressure are you using? If you haven't done so I suggest putting a mark with a sharpie on the side of your pads so you can make sure they are always rotating. If they aren't rotating you are using too much pressure. What is your arm speed like? 1 inch per second is the general rule of thumb with a DA style polisher.

 

How much product are you using? Are you using the MF pads or foam pads? Either way priming the whole face of the pad with polish helps a ton. You don't want excess product, but enough to cover the whole face of the pad.

 

Try doing the top of the trunk. Take a piece of masking tape and tape off half the trunk. Polish right up to the tape. Make 4-5 passes on that half of the trunk with orange pad and correcting polish. Peel the tape off and wipe the polish residue off with a single/double soft towel. Inspect your results in the sun or with the LED light.

 

Either your paint is already perfect, your technique is off, or you have the hardest paint on earth.

[Chris@Adams]

Go to the junkyard and get a black trunk lid or door.....if it's not trashed take some fine steel wool and scratch it up. Now get your Cyclo and go to town......you just need a little practice.

[rkj4243]

Phil,

 

Attached are "before" and after using only Adam's Correcting Polish on a black C6 Corvette that was stored in an industrial building, uncovered for the last 5 years. Car has only 6600 miles, and since I bought it, and wish to show it, I wanted 100% correction.

 

As bad as it initially looked, these pictures were taken before using Adam's Finishing Polish, and foam pads.

 

Granted, it took numerous passes with the Cyclo, and time to get it completed wasn't a factor, but don't be too quick to give up.

 

Yes, it is best to work inside where the elements don't affect product, or heat of the surface you are working on.

 

 

Right Door as Started 1

 

 

Right Door as Corrected 1

 

 

Right Door as Started 2

 

 

[psalonis]

I got it in a mystery box one time and thought, I'll never use it. Well, yesterday after I couldn't see a diff with my Cyclo, I decided to try Patriot. One word... AWESOME!!!

You got patriot in a mystery box?!?!?? Score!!!

Edited May 19, 2015 by psalonis

[PT3]

Phil,

 

Attached are "before" and after using only Adam's Correcting Polish on a black C6 Corvette that was stored in an industrial building, uncovered for the last 5 years. Car has only 6600 miles, and since I bought it, and wish to show it, I wanted 100% correction.

 

As bad as it initially looked, these pictures were taken before using Adam's Finishing Polish, and foam pads.

 

Granted, it took numerous passes with the Cyclo, and time to get it completed wasn't a factor, but don't be too quick to give up.

 

Yes, it is best to work inside where the elements don't affect product, or heat of the surface you are working on.

 

Rt Door Start 1.jpg

 

Right Door as Started 1

 

Rt Door Corrected 1.jpg

 

Right Door as Corrected 1

 

Rt Door Start 1.jpg

 

Right Door as Started 2

I don't doubt the power of the machine or product. But if I can't see any difference, then it's not worth it.

 

And no biggie... I'll just wait til I have the right environment and vehicle to use it.

 

The vette looks great BTW!

[PT3]

You got patriot in a mystery box?!?!?? Score!!!

Yep! I didn't realize how big of a score it was at first! Now I do!

[Ricky Bobby]

Phil, do you have an LED torch for a swirlfinder?  You can get one for $20 off ebay.  Very helpful in spotting defects but again, you may not have much.  Also, working in the overcast weather is hindering being able to spot any imperfections.  Yes it allows you to work outside since you haven't cleared your garage out, but its a negative when polishing and you aren't working with concentrated light source to identify defects.  As opposed to parking the vehicle outside, prior to pulling in the garage and polishing, you get a good idea of what kinds of defects (if any) are on the paint when you do a visual inspection in full sunlight, after the wash, and after claying.

 

However, as I've mentioned numerous times, you do have a decent rinseless and traditional washing regimen, and your M5 is just over a year old I believe and isn't dealer prepped or washed by them regularly?

 

If you are happy with the look of your finish and can't spot any obvious defects then just keep it sealed/waxed and drive it, and continue with your regimen which is obviously keeping your finish in good shape.

 

 

Don't drive yourself crazy thinking you "have to correct it because everyone does" or trying to polish out defects that aren't there.  If you have a good washing/rinseless regimen, you may not even need to hit the vehicle with Finishing Polish for light swirls, once a year.  I corrected my X5 in August of last year and just finished doing a spring detail.  After claying, I saw no new defects since last year's correction so I just sealed it and now I'm driving it.  Granted its not 100% but being a 2003, I'm happy with 95%.

 

I'm sure the Cyclo will be a tool you will own for most of your life as they are bulletproof, it will get its use someday, between your M5, other vehicles in the future, motorcycles, boats, etc. 

Edited May 19, 2015 by Ricky Bobby

[PT3]

Phil, do you have an LED torch for a swirlfinder?  You can get one for $20 off ebay.  Very helpful in spotting defects but again, you may not have much.  Also, working in the overcast weather is hindering being able to spot any imperfections.  Yes it allows you to work outside since you haven't cleared your garage out, but its a negative when polishing and you aren't working with concentrated light source to identify defects.  As opposed to parking the vehicle outside, prior to pulling in the garage and polishing, you get a good idea of what kinds of defects (if any) are on the paint when you do a visual inspection in full sunlight, after the wash, and after claying.

 

However, as I've mentioned numerous times, you do have a decent rinseless and traditional washing regimen, and your M5 is just over a year old I believe and isn't dealer prepped or washed by them regularly?

 

If you are happy with the look of your finish and can't spot any obvious defects then just keep it sealed/waxed and drive it, and continue with your regimen which is obviously keeping your finish in good shape.

 

 

Don't drive yourself crazy thinking you "have to correct it because everyone does" or trying to polish out defects that aren't there.  If you have a good washing/rinseless regimen, you may not even need to hit the vehicle with Finishing Polish for light swirls, once a year.  I corrected my X5 in August of last year and just finished doing a spring detail.  After claying, I saw no new defects since last year's correction so I just sealed it and now I'm driving it.  Granted its not 100% but being a 2003, I'm happy with 95%.

 

I'm sure the Cyclo will be a tool you will own for most of your life as they are bulletproof, it will get its use someday, between your M5, other vehicles in the future, motorcycles, boats, etc.

 

Thanks RB!

 

I'm with you!

The car never got to a dealer since I picked it up from the factory about 11 months ago. It's never been dealer prepped or washed by a dealer. It did see 3-4 auto washes while in Europe. And has seen 2 auto washes here in the US over the winter before I started doing my own self serve. Ever since, it hasn't seen any auto washes. I always take care to park in areas to minimize exposure to door dings, tree debri, etc...

 

So, to your point... I think you are spot on. I've got a good maintenance regimen and with the age of the finish and the color, any defects are minimal and well hidden. So, I'll just maintain the shine and enjoy it!

And yep...I'll keep the Cyclo as a great tool for my 'belt'.

[Aaron@P2PQD]

Being in Australia I regularly have to deal with fast flashing due to the ambient heat over here, This summer I corrected several cars in 40 degree celcius ambient and I feel your pain, probably one of the steepest learning curves I've had. The heat & humidity literally wreak havoc on the rules, Here's what I've found through my experience. All I can say is thank god winter's here!

- Decrease the size of your polishing area, sometimes I'm working 1' x 1' to prevent the polish drying on the panel before it's flashed

- Use water instead of Detail spray and keep the pads moist to extend the flash time

- Reduce pressure on machine

- Arm speed will become critical, Usually I find I need to move a little quicker over the panel and sometimes do 2 passes.

 

Hope this was of use to you, Good Luck!

Aaron

Edited May 21, 2015 by Aaron@P2PQD

[TheBurninator]

Being in Australia I regularly have to deal with fast flashing due to the ambient heat over here, This summer I corrected several cars in 40 degree celcius ambient and I feel your pain, probably one of the steepest learning curves I've had. The heat & humidity literally wreak havoc on the rules, Here's what I've found through my experience. All I can say is thank god winter's here!

- Decrease the size of your polishing area, sometimes I'm working 1' x 1' to prevent the polish drying on the panel before it's flashed

- Use water instead of Detail spray and keep the pads moist to extend the flash time

- Reduce pressure on machine

- Arm speed will become critical, Usually I find I need to move a little quicker over the panel and sometimes do 2 passes.

 

Hope this was of use to you, Good Luck!

Aaron

 

Aaron, I've even gone as far as having microfiber towels soaking in a bucket of water or rinseless and placing them on the panel I am about to work to cool the panel before I start.

[mc2hill]

Being in Australia I regularly have to deal with fast flashing due to the ambient heat over here, This summer I corrected several cars in 40 degree celcius ambient and I feel your pain, probably one of the steepest learning curves I've had. The heat & humidity literally wreak havoc on the rules, Here's what I've found through my experience. All I can say is thank god winter's here!

- Decrease the size of your polishing area, sometimes I'm working 1' x 1' to prevent the polish drying on the panel before it's flashed

- Use water instead of Detail spray and keep the pads moist to extend the flash time

- Reduce pressure on machine

- Arm speed will become critical, Usually I find I need to move a little quicker over the panel and sometimes do 2 passes.

 

Hope this was of use to you, Good Luck!

Aaron

 

Good info Aaron!  

 

I would suggest distilled water instead of DS, just to be sure you are not adding any minerals to the equation.