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Pad selection


Dwhite0960

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So I am going to be ordering my remaing products and my polisher after the Christmas gift cards come in. I am a total novice when it comes to the polisher, this being said I would like to state before my following questions I know that the da polishers are super safe and the chances of the paint getting hurt are slim to none if you use intelligence. With that being said im scared to death still lol. The car I want to get the polisher on for swirl free paint is my wife's car mainly, im going to practice on the ole goat first though. Her car just had a small dent fixed and the rear door and quarter panel got resprayed, the moron using the buffer at the body shop left some beautiful holograms/buffer trails everywhere. The rest of the car has the typical swirl marks from the previous owner washing his car with gravel like most ppl do due to improper techniques. I know the car with the swirl part will take the Orange foam and possibly even the microfiber pad if my test spot on the foam comes out scratched still. On the side where the newer paint is do you reccomend I just use the white pad first and then go orange if needed or do I just stick with whatever pad i deemed needed from my test spot. I don't know what using to aggressive of a pad can to to the finish if it isn't needed. With that out of the way to the last question. I have read reviews and you tube videos alomg with adams on polishers like I need it to breath daily. I like the flex because it seems to get good remarks on a good finish but it can get bad damage out with some good work. Is there any benefit to this machine besides a time saving on labor vs the other polishers? The pc is obviously the most economical way into the polishing world but I don't want to buy a machine that leaves my desires for more and then have to buy another polisher later on. All help is greatly appreciated and sorry for the long winded post.

Edited by Dwhite0960
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Remember the 'least aggressive method first' rule.  Try one of the bad spots with the white pad and PFP, and wipe away the polish residue.  Does it look fine to you?  If yes, then that section is ready for LPS.  If no, add more polish to the pad and try again.  YES/NO, if no, move up to the orange foam pad and PCP.  YES/NO, if no, try PCP again.  YES/NO, if no, move up to the MF pad and PCP.  

If you have moved up to PCP on either type of pad, you will probably need to follow up with the white foam pad and PFP to remove micro-marring the correction polish caused..

 

Go slow, be patient, work the polish until it flashes, and only work a 2 ft. x 2 ft.area at a time.  Use tape to mark off a few areas of this size and do a few test spots to see what the least aggressive method for your project is.  Different cars and different colors can mean different starting points.  And just because it worked fine on the last car you did, do the test spot and least aggressive method to be sure.  

The test spot may seem like it uses up time, but it is best to know at the being of the project what is needed, instead of doing the whole vehicle and then realizing it needed something more aggressive.  (Ask me how I know!)

 

The new smaller 6" Adam's pads work great with the PC.  If you are not pressed for time, the PC is a fine, versatile, machine, that can give great levels of correction.  You just have to be patient!      

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Remember the 'least aggressive method first' rule.  Try one of the bad spots with the white pad and PFP, and wipe away the polish residue.  Does it look fine to you?  If yes, then that section is ready for LPS.  If no, add more polish to the pad and try again.  YES/NO, if no, move up to the orange foam pad and PCP.  YES/NO, if no, try PCP again.  YES/NO, if no, move up to the MF pad and PCP.  

If you have moved up to PCP on either type of pad, you will probably need to follow up with the white foam pad and PFP to remove micro-marring the correction polish caused..

 

Go slow, be patient, work the polish until it flashes, and only work a 2 ft. x 2 ft.area at a time.  Use tape to mark off a few areas of this size and do a few test spots to see what the least aggressive method for your project is.  Different cars and different colors can mean different starting points.  And just because it worked fine on the last car you did, do the test spot and least aggressive method to be sure.  

The test spot may seem like it uses up time, but it is best to know at the being of the project what is needed, instead of doing the whole vehicle and then realizing it needed something more aggressive.  (Ask me how I know!)

 

The new smaller 6" Adam's pads work great with the PC.  If you are not pressed for time, the PC is a fine, versatile, machine, that can give great levels of correction.  You just have to be patient!

 

Michael thanks for the response. I know the test sports a crucial in the long run and im not pressed for time per say, however were Americans and like to be done sooner than later lol. I will use only adams pads and polish for sure I am sold on this company and the products of which they stand behind. I just wasn't sure if the claims of cutting times down 1/3 were accurate in the real world with the more advanced polishers compared to the pc.

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There are a couple threads on the machines and all kinds of comments as to which one people like and why. 

 

After reading it all its almost impossible to just pick one. 

 

I have a PC now that does a fine job, just works my arms a bit much for my liking but is a great way to get in and see what you need. 

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There are a couple threads on the machines and all kinds of comments as to which one people like and why
 
After reading it all its almost impossible to just pick one. 
 
I have a PC now that does a fine job, just works my arms a bit much for my liking but is a great way to get in and see what you need.


im I have read and watched to much I think lol. They all sound great in the end just trying to pick the adams team brain a little bit.
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Polisher selection video.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iwd8mNcn66k

Joe, I have watched the video multiple times to make sure I soaked in everything. This being said I still can't make my mind up, one day I say it's the flex for sure and then I wake up and say the cyclo is the most versatile machine for me since I can only afford and get away with one polisher (the boss needs vacation not polishers lol). The videos I have watched of the cyclo outside of a adams lineup show it can really correct some junky paint but I won't know what I will buy until I finally pay for one I guess. I just don't want buyers remorse and love to hear everyone's input on their machine and any others they have put their hands on in comparison, I guess you can say I am a bit selfish to ask the age old question.

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Joe, I have watched the video multiple times to make sure I soaked in everything. This being said I still can't make my mind up, one day I say it's the flex for sure and then I wake up and say the cyclo is the most versatile machine for me since I can only afford and get away with one polisher (the boss needs vacation not polishers lol). The videos I have watched of the cyclo outside of a adams lineup show it can really correct some junky paint but I won't know what I will buy until I finally pay for one I guess. I just don't want buyers remorse and love to hear everyone's input on their machine and any others they have put their hands on in comparison, I guess you can say I am a bit selfish to ask the age old question.

 

My suggestion:

If you are not pushed for time to do the correction, and do not have problems with your hands or arms, get a PC.  It is the 'best value' of the choices - Uses 6" and 4" pads, and can be used with brushes too.

 

Downside:

It is not as comfortable to use for long stretches of time (for some, it has never bothered me) as some of the others.  

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