First Adam's Detail

[James__]

So I am currently acquiring my Adam's Arsenal to do my first full detail using Adam's products. I still have a few more items on my list to complete my supplies for now but the question I have right now is primarily on sequence and layering. I have detailed my vehicles in the past but never using more than a couple layers. I am not interested in adding a polisher to my collection yet so here is the process I have come up with so far:

• Presoak body with 6:1 Rinseless Wash. Wash wheels with Deep Wheel Cleaner & tires and fender wells with All Purpose Cleaner.
• Pressure washer rinse then 2 bucket strip wash with Car Wash Shampoo and ~3oz All Purpose Cleaner. Rinse afterwards.
• Wipe with Detail Spray and plush microfiber.
• Clay Bar with Detail Spray or 32:1 Rinseless lube.
• Remove residue with quick 2 bucket wash and dry with Great White Drying Towel
• Revive Hand Polish with Blue Hex Grip Applicator and plush microfiber.
• 1:1 70% Isopropyl Alcohol wipedown.
• Liquid Paint Sealant on painted surfaces with Microfiber Applicator Pad and plush microfiber.
• Super VRT on tires using Hex Grip Pro Tire Applicator and trim using Block Applicator while allowing LPS to cure. Invisible Undercarriage Spray inside fender wells; wipe with old towel.
• Brilliant Glaze with Red Hex Grip Applicator and plush microfiber.
• H2O Guard & Gloss with damp plush microfiber and dry plush microfiber. (Entire truck including wheels)
• Buttery Wax with Yellow Hex Grip Applicator and plush microfiber.
• Glass Cleaner and Glass Sealant on exterior glass and Glass Cleaner on interior glass using Microfiber Glass Cleaning Towels.

The questions I have are:

• Is Revive > Brilliant > LPS > H2O GG > Buttery too many finishes on top of each other or will this lead to a deep shine with a high level of protection?
• Because I will not be using a machine, I have not included any paint correction or paint finishing steps. would it still be beneficial to do these by hand as the truck has not had a serious detail before?
• If I do add these steps, I believe the Orange Hex Grip Applicator is to be used with Paint Correcting Polish, but what should be used to apply the Paint Finishing Polish?
• If I do add these steps, do I simply correct and finish before doing the Revive Hand Polish? Or do these steps replace something I have on the list above?

Thank you for any help you can provide!

Edited January 14, 2016 by James__

[hockeybawler]

I wouldn't worry about the initial presoak with rinseless. Also take out your step #3 and just go straight to claybar.  No need to waste detail spray and time drying the car when you are going to make it wet again with whatever your choice of clay lube is.  Squirt it right on top of the water and go to town claying.

 

For #5, you can do a quick rinseless wash as well if you would like and hold off on the alcohol wipedown until after you polish if you wish to do so.

 

Revive gets done before the Liquid paint sealant.  Any paint correction is always done after wash and claybar, then you add on your waxes/sealants/glazes.  

 

Personally I think that is too many waxes/sealants/and glazes topped on each other and could potentially dull all the shine a bit instead of bring it out more.  For durability I would go Brilliant glaze and then liquid paint sealant and hit it with H20 every other wash after that.  Or for shine and show I would go with Brilliant glaze and then buttery wax.  Side note: Some people like to put glaze on top of their waxes/sealants but I prefer it under since glaze has small filling properties.  Either way works and is correct, just whatever floats your boat.

 

Other than that, you seem to have the process down just off of the quick glance I took.  Go for it and put up pictures 

[James__]

Hockeybawler, Thanks for the suggestions, I used them to do some rearranging on my initial post.  Not all of the steps I listed above would be for each wash cycle, I am just trying to get a good regimen put together for an initial full scale detail. 

 

The reason behind the presoak is because my truck gets a lot of road grime and bugs because it sees a lot of miles (17k miles since I bought it in June).  I need an extra step in the beginning to aid in removing some of the excess and larger debris to keep what I can out of the wash pad.

 

The reason I added step number 3 is because I am worried about the water from the rinse drying on the naked clear coat after the strip wash.  If I go straight to the clay bar, the hard water will definitely dry before I can get around my truck with a clay bar, it's just too large to avoid.

Edited January 14, 2016 by James__

[James__]

The questions I have are:

• Is Revive > Brilliant > LPS > H2O GG > Buttery too many finishes on top of each other or will this lead to a deep shine with a high level of protection?
• Because I will not be using a machine, I have not included any paint correction or paint finishing steps. would it still be beneficial to do these by hand as the truck has not had a serious detail before?
• If I do add these steps, I believe the Orange Hex Grip Applicator is to be used with Paint Correcting Polish, but what should be used to apply the Paint Finishing Polish?
• If I do add these steps, do I simply correct and finish before doing the Revive Hand Polish? Or do these steps replace something I have on the list above?

Thank you for any help you can provide!

 

Can anyone help me out with these ones?

[Ricky Bobby]

 

The questions I have are:

• Is Revive > Brilliant > LPS > H2O GG > Buttery too many finishes on top of each other or will this lead to a deep shine with a high level of protection?  Revive is a paint cleaner so you can skip the IPA wipe down if you are using it.  BG + LPS + GG should be plenty of protection and shine.  Apply BG or GG alternatively on top of each other to keep the LPS maintained, personally with that combo of 3 products I would not use Buttery, too much going on at that point (Keep It Simple)
• Because I will not be using a machine, I have not included any paint correction or paint finishing steps. would it still be beneficial to do these by hand as the truck has not had a serious detail before?  IMO unless you want the elbow grease and time, just do the Revive after claying, should help it slightly.  But going over PC + PF + Revive by hand plus all your hand applied LPS, BG, and GG, jeez man it will day you days and you'll have the sorest arms ever lol (but you will be pumped up when done)
• If I do add these steps, I believe the Orange Hex Grip Applicator is to be used with Paint Correcting Polish, but what should be used to apply the Paint Finishing Polish?  PF by hand you probably can use the Blue or Yellow Hex Grips as they have minimal cut and would be fine for finishing polish.
• If I do add these steps, do I simply correct and finish before doing the Revive Hand Polish? Or do these steps replace something I have on the list above?  Do whatever you have the time and or energy to do.

Thank you for any help you can provide!

 

 

See above as I tried to help, that is a hell of a big truck to do all that by hand.  Personally, its white, I would just Revive and Seal it.  If you want to polish it, get a PC7424XP machine and do it in a year or so, by then the finish will be already up to snuff with maintenance so you can just clay the finish and then polish by machine.  Good luck!

[James__]

The questions I have are:

• Is Revive > Brilliant > LPS > H2O GG > Buttery too many finishes on top of each other or will this lead to a deep shine with a high level of protection?  Revive is a paint cleaner so you can skip the IPA wipe down if you are using it.  BG + LPS + GG should be plenty of protection and shine.  Apply BG or GG alternatively on top of each other to keep the LPS maintained, personally with that combo of 3 products I would not use Buttery, too much going on at that point (Keep It Simple)
• Because I will not be using a machine, I have not included any paint correction or paint finishing steps. would it still be beneficial to do these by hand as the truck has not had a serious detail before?  IMO unless you want the elbow grease and time, just do the Revive after claying, should help it slightly.  But going over PC + PF + Revive by hand plus all your hand applied LPS, BG, and GG, jeez man it will day you days and you'll have the sorest arms ever lol (but you will be pumped up when done)
• If I do add these steps, I believe the Orange Hex Grip Applicator is to be used with Paint Correcting Polish, but what should be used to apply the Paint Finishing Polish?  PF by hand you probably can use the Blue or Yellow Hex Grips as they have minimal cut and would be fine for finishing polish.
• If I do add these steps, do I simply correct and finish before doing the Revive Hand Polish? Or do these steps replace something I have on the list above?  Do whatever you have the time and or energy to do.

Thank you for any help you can provide!

 

 

See above as I tried to help, that is a hell of a big truck to do all that by hand.  Personally, its white, I would just Revive and Seal it.  If you want to polish it, get a PC7424XP machine and do it in a year or so, by then the finish will be already up to snuff with maintenance so you can just clay the finish and then polish by machine.  Good luck!

 

 

Thanks for the help! Being white I wasn't sure if the extra effort, time, and expense would be worth doing a paint correction and finish by hand so I think I'll take your advice and hold off on that until I buy a machine, probably later this year.

Edited January 14, 2016 by James__

[hockeybawler]

 

Hockeybawler, Thanks for the suggestions, I used them to do some rearranging on my initial post.  Not all of the steps I listed above would be for each wash cycle, I am just trying to get a good regimen put together for an initial full scale detail. 

 

The reason behind the presoak is because my truck gets a lot of road grime and bugs because it sees a lot of miles (17k miles since I bought it in June).  I need an extra step in the beginning to aid in removing some of the excess and larger debris to keep what I can out of the wash pad.

 

The reason I added step number 3 is because I am worried about the water from the rinse drying on the naked clear coat after the strip wash.  If I go straight to the clay bar, the hard water will definitely dry before I can get around my truck with a clay bar, it's just too large to avoid.

 

Revive would take away any of those water spots that would appear if the water happened to dry.  Do this in the shade if possible to prevent it,  Like I said before, take away step number 3 and save yourself some time and product.  

 

If you are doing the presoak then I would hit the truck with your pressure washer first to remove all of the bigger debris, then presoak, then wash.  Doing this will help soften up the harder stuck on gunk when washing and give you more lubricity for your wash mitt.

[pirahnah3]

Yeah skip step 3 you dont really need it 

 

You might also want to add in rail dust removal after step 4 with some DWC mixed down 50/50. You will be shocked at how much iron is in the paint.

 

5 really isnt needed but go for it if you want. Personally I would just do a quick wipe down if you want to see where you are, thou I have seen a vid where either Adam or Dylan went right over the clay residue with a machine and PC-PF so your revive should be fine on top of it. 

Personally I would Flip steps 8 and 9 that way if you get any paint sealant on the trim its easier to get off. 

 

Also I would wait at least a day before topping the LPS as recommended in several places. 

 

As for a daily, Glaze, LPS, H20 will be a killer set, your buttery would be a bit over the top. 

 

With that said, In the warm months I use buttery on top of LPS on my F250CC as I like spending the time with the truck and I am using H20 in the winter months when I cannot use the products due to temps. I really like the buttery goes on easy comes off just as easy and leaves a nice shine behind it. You could go bigger and do Americana or even Patriot if you want to spend the time and money thats up to you. 

 

As to your questions, I agree with ricky bobby, you should really look into a machine sometime soon, you WILL be tired from all this. I can tell you doing most of that on my 250 took me all day and man was I whooped after and I used a Porter Cable for the 2 step. 

[James__]

Yeah skip step 3 you dont really need it 

 

You might also want to add in rail dust removal after step 4 with some DWC mixed down 50/50. You will be shocked at how much iron is in the paint.

 

5 really isnt needed but go for it if you want. Personally I would just do a quick wipe down if you want to see where you are, thou I have seen a vid where either Adam or Dylan went right over the clay residue with a machine and PC-PF so your revive should be fine on top of it. 

Personally I would Flip steps 8 and 9 that way if you get any paint sealant on the trim its easier to get off. 

 

Also I would wait at least a day before topping the LPS as recommended in several places. 

 

As for a daily, Glaze, LPS, H20 will be a killer set, your buttery would be a bit over the top. 

 

With that said, In the warm months I use buttery on top of LPS on my F250CC as I like spending the time with the truck and I am using H20 in the winter months when I cannot use the products due to temps. I really like the buttery goes on easy comes off just as easy and leaves a nice shine behind it. You could go bigger and do Americana or even Patriot if you want to spend the time and money thats up to you. 

 

As to your questions, I agree with ricky bobby, you should really look into a machine sometime soon, you WILL be tired from all this. I can tell you doing most of that on my 250 took me all day and man was I whooped after and I used a Porter Cable for the 2 step.

 

Thanks for the reply, a lot of good info there that I can implement! I typed up a list that I can print out later and I did add a decontamination step after watching the video. I do plan to get a machine, probably later in the spring or this summer, I just am holding off because of the cost to start up and get all of the materials. The hang up I have on step 3 is that the whole idea behind avoiding waterspots is because they can actually damage the clear coat... So because of that, shouldn't after a strip wash when there is no sacrificial layer when I need to avoid waterspots the most?

[pirahnah3]

Thanks for the reply, a lot of good info there that I can implement! I typed up a list that I can print out later and I did add a decontamination step after watching the video. I do plan to get a machine, probably later in the spring or this summer, I just am holding off because of the cost to start up and get all of the materials. The hang up I have on step 3 is that the whole idea behind avoiding waterspots is because they can actually damage the clear coat... So because of that, shouldn't after a strip wash when there is no sacrificial layer when I need to avoid waterspots the most?

 

I think the concern with waterspots is more long term not hours. You can do it if you want, thou I can clay my truck in 25-30 min thou the first time did take me a little longer because I was still perfecting technique 

 

I would wait for some others on the water spots but personally I have no issues in that short a time.

[James__]

I think the concern with waterspots is more long term not hours. You can do it if you want, thou I can clay my truck in 25-30 min thou the first time did take me a little longer because I was still perfecting technique 

 

I would wait for some others on the water spots but personally I have no issues in that short a time.

Got it, I was under the impression it was more of an instantaneous issue than a long term issue.

[pirahnah3]

Got it, I was under the impression it was more of an instantaneous issue than a long term issue.

 

If your planning to use revive anyways.....to me non issue all around. 

[James__]

Thanks! I appreciate the help and that should help me save time and product.

[Bill-V8V]

First off I am not a professional, and second, this is just my opinion. But I think there is room for simplification. If you follow all of those steps you will need a serious amount of time. If it were me i would scale back a little until after you get a machine. So starting with your plan:

 

• Wash wheels with Deep Wheel Cleaner & tires and fender wells with All Purpose Cleaner.
• 2 bucket strip wash with Car Wash Shampoo and ~3oz All Purpose Cleaner. Rinse afterwards.
• Clay Bar with Detail Spray or 32:1 Rinseless lube.
• Revive Hand Polish with Blue Hex Grip Applicator and plush microfiber.
• Liquid Paint Sealant on painted surfaces with Microfiber Applicator Pad and plush microfiber.
• Super VRT on tires using Hex Grip Pro Tire Applicator and trim using Block Applicator while allowing Liquid Paint Sealant to cure. Invisible Undercarriage Spray inside fender wells; wipe with old towel.
• Brilliant Glaze with Red Hex Grip Applicator and plush microfiber.
• H2O Guard & Gloss with damp plush microfiber and dry plush microfiber. (Entire truck including wheels)
• Glass Cleaner and Glass Sealant on exterior glass and Glass Cleaner on interior glass using Microfiber Glass Cleaning Towels.

Then every other week wash and throw on a coat of Buttery Wax or H2O. That should keep you well protected and keep your arm out of a sling for several months lol

 

Then in the fall get a PC and do a full correction and start adding protection again.

[James__]

First off I am not a professional, and second, this is just my opinion. But I think there is room for simplification. If you follow all of those steps you will need a serious amount of time. If it were me i would scale back a little until after you get a machine. So starting with your plan:

 

 

• Wash wheels with Deep Wheel Cleaner & tires and fender wells with All Purpose Cleaner.
• 2 bucket strip wash with Car Wash Shampoo and ~3oz All Purpose Cleaner. Rinse afterwards.
• Clay Bar with Detail Spray or 32:1 Rinseless lube.
• Revive Hand Polish with Blue Hex Grip Applicator and plush microfiber.
• Liquid Paint Sealant on painted surfaces with Microfiber Applicator Pad and plush microfiber.
• Super VRT on tires using Hex Grip Pro Tire Applicator and trim using Block Applicator while allowing Liquid Paint Sealant to cure. Invisible Undercarriage Spray inside fender wells; wipe with old towel.
• Brilliant Glaze with Red Hex Grip Applicator and plush microfiber.
• H2O Guard & Gloss with damp plush microfiber and dry plush microfiber. (Entire truck including wheels)
• Glass Cleaner and Glass Sealant on exterior glass and Glass Cleaner on interior glass using Microfiber Glass Cleaning Towels.

Then every other week wash and throw on a coat of Buttery Wax or H2O. That should keep you well protected and keep your arm out of a sling for several months lol

 

Then in the fall get a PC and do a full correction and start adding protection again.

Yes, I have spoken with another user regarding buying his lightly used PC when he buys a new machine before long so what I may do is a good cleaning and a coat of h2o soon and then do a paint correction and polish full detail once I'm in possession of a machine.

[pirahnah3]

Yes, I have spoken with another user regarding buying his lightly used PC when he buys a new machine before long so what I may do is a good cleaning and a coat of h2o soon and then do a paint correction and polish full detail once I'm in possession of a machine.

 

Now there you go, great way to start out, get used to it and see how some of the products work. 

[Bill-V8V]

The good news is after that first correction it is much easier to maintain, if you use good wash technique 

[James__]

Now there you go, great way to start out, get used to it and see how some of the products work.

 

  

 

Exactly! And I can put off the all day detail until the weather is a little nicer.

 

The good news is after that first correction it is much easier to maintain, if you use good wash technique 

That's the plan! With as many miles as I rack up, I just want to make sure I'm protecting my finish and keeping it looking good!

[NG13]

I'm a little late to this party and it looks like you have it all figured out so I'll just throw in a couple small things. Check out the daily driver detail video for the wet claying demonstrated. Also, I am going to double check this myself but I think the recommended dilution for rinsless as clay lube is 64:1.

 

Post pics when she's done!

[James__]

I'm a little late to this party and it looks like you have it all figured out so I'll just throw in a couple small things. Check out the daily driver detail video for the wet claying demonstrated. Also, I am going to double check this myself but I think the recommended dilution for rinsless as clay lube is 64:1.

Post pics when she's done!

I have that video on my 'Watch Later' list on YouTube. I've been making my way through the YouTube channel learning what I can and taking some notes!

 

Yes, the recommended dilution is 64:1 for Rinseless as a clay lube but I've read where many people have had trouble with that mixture not having enough lubricity and that they had better results using a 32:1 mixture instead.

[James__]

I appreciate those of you who have chimed in! I've learned more than I expected to just by the questions I had to ask and I've been able to put together a good regimen for a full scale detail whenever I finally get around to it!

[pirahnah3]

Thats the beauty of this place! Ask some simple questions and learn a TON! 

[James__]

Thats the beauty of this place! Ask some simple questions and learn a TON! 

 I like it haha.  I only THOUGHT I knew about detailing before I came across this site and the YouTube channel 

[pirahnah3]

Cant tell you how many times I have watched some of those vids to make sure I understand what they are doing or to make sure I didnt miss a step or hear something wrong, or even go back and make sure my technique isnt getting sloppy. 

 

The vids are all awesome and top notch, really a great selling tool for the product as well as educational for the user. One of the things that to me makes this place great. 

[James__]

Couldn't agree more.  I have already watched a few of them multiple times just to make sure that I have everything straight.  Still have a few of the longer videos left to watch and I'm going to go through the machine polishing videos now.