First polisher.

[Wgeffon]

Hey everyone.

I have been using Adam's on my cars for a while now and absolutely love the products.

I have never used a machine polisher but am thinking I am ready to start learning.

Adams seems to makes it very easy with this kit..PORTER CABLE 7424XP POLISHER BASICS KIT.

 

My car is basically brand new and the paint is in good shape. I have some water spots but no swirls.

I have also detailed two friends cars by hand and have had good results. Both cars were also basically new and the paint was in great shape. I'd like to be able to correct a car that had a some light swirls or scratches in the future though. Will this kit get me on my way to doing that?

I dont plan on making this a business. Just looking to get to the next level of results from where I have been.

 

In this order?

*Strip wash, polisher with correcting polish, polisher with finishing polish, seal, wax?

 

*Seal by hand with H20GG?

*Americana by hand or should the wax be applied with the polisher?

 

Thanks for any info and guidance.

[PostalTwo]

The Porter cable will Definitely have u on your way to next level results. The Porter cable is certainly capable especially if your finish is not hammered . The only drawback of the Porter cable would be the vibrations if gives off . However for amount of polishing your doing it shouldn't be an issue . H20 is a hand application imo so is Americana. If u insist on machine application of Americana I would get some small pads for the machine. Paint sealant however is great to apply by machine .

 

I think u will like the results of machine polishing . Perfection is definitely within your reach using a machine.adams has videos on their youtube channel for all their products and some just just for great tips. I highly suggest you check them out . Good luck with your machine polishing experience

[Thorsager]

The Porter Cable is a great machine. It is economical and will give you great results! After the strip wash I would clay your car before polishing. As stated before Americana is applied by hand.

[Wgeffon]

Thanks guys.

I should have been more clear. I know Americana is a hand wax.

My question is.. Should I use the PC for wax application with a wax designed for machine applications?

[mc2hill]

Yes, many of us started with a PC, and it a versatile tool.  

 

You can use the PC to apply Americana wax, but it is so easy by hand I have never been tempted. 

[Kraterer]

I'm with you Wayne, just got my first PC polisher, haven't used it yet but have the Adam's pads, orange, white and microfiber (Gen6 pad bundle). Also have the Paint Correcting and Finishing Polishes, H2O G&G, Patriot Wax and Brilliant Glaze. Hoping to address/correct the super fine swirl marks on my car. It never sees rain and gets hit with Waterless Wash and Detail Spray after every drive. Everyone but me thinks the paint is awesome... I see nothing but the super-fine swirl marks (only in the sun).

 

Unfortunately, I've had my ride for 3 years and only learned about Adam's when I stopped in their booth at the 2016 Hot August Nights show in Reno. Little did I know that using the pack of 36 yellow microfiber towels from China (with tags from the big box store) was actually damaging my clear. Ugh.

 

I'll practice with the PC on my daily driver (2000 white Honda Accord) first... but at some point I'll have to bite the bullet and touch my baby.  (Can you say Terrified???)

 

[shane@detailedreflections]

Take the leap to machine polishing.  You won't be disappointed.  There isn't anything to be terrified of.  The process is relatively simple and straight forward.  Just remember to  keep the polisher moving and don't hold it in one spot and to go light on the pressure on edges.  It's no that scary once you've done it.  Take your time.  Prep is everything.

 

Enjoy the journey.  You'll be polishing in no time and you'll be achieving some next level shine that will make people envious.

[falcaineer]

Hey everyone.

I have been using Adam's on my cars for a while now and absolutely love the products.

I have never used a machine polisher but am thinking I am ready to start learning.

Adams seems to makes it very easy with this kit..PORTER CABLE 7424XP POLISHER BASICS KIT.

My car is basically brand new and the paint is in good shape. I have some water spots but no swirls.

I have also detailed two friends cars by hand and have had good results. Both cars were also basically new and the paint was in great shape. I'd like to be able to correct a car that had a some light swirls or scratches in the future though. Will this kit get me on my way to doing that?

I dont plan on making this a business. Just looking to get to the next level of results from where I have been.

In this order?

*Strip wash, polisher with correcting polish, polisher with finishing polish, seal, wax?

*Seal by hand with H20GG?

*Americana by hand or should the wax be applied with the polisher?

Thanks for any info and guidance.

In my opinion, the order is fine, with a few exceptions:

Strip wash, VRT the trim, Clay, polish with PC, alcohol wipe down with blue microfiber (50/50 with water, removes the polish oils), seal with PC, wax (follow other people's advice on this one; I haven't waxed my DD yet).

 

I also use the PC7424 as my first polisher and was thrilled with the results. It vibrates more than the newer models (e.g. cyclone), but it's nothing that will drive you crazy. Besides, it makes you feel like you did some of the work!

 

Yes, HGG goes on by hand.

 

Remember, the pads are color coded, so orange pad with PCP, white pad with PFP, grey pad with LPS.

 

Also should add, if your paint is pretty good, you may not need the PCP just yet. The PFP may be good enough.

 

Good luck, and enjoy the new adventure!

Edited November 2, 2016 by falcaineer

[PHOKUS]

I learned on a PC. They are durable, capable, inexpensive machines and an incredible value.

 

If I have two words for anyone new to compounding and polishing: Residue Control.

 

You either need to clean the pad you're using, or swap out the pad. I use four pads on a sedan, six pads on a truck or van. It's a larger up front investment, but your pads last four times longer. The upside to managing residue is better, quicker results for less effort. Less wear on your arms, less wear on your machine and pads.

 

When your compounding pad fills up with residue (a combination of polish and clear or paint), it can no longer cut effectively. Heat builds up on the surface of the pad, causing the polish to flash prematurely. Friction increases tremendously, and those forces are pushed to the hook and loop fasteners. Heat builds up very quidkly here and eventually you'll have pad failure where the heat has either broken down the adhesives keeping the pad together, or melts the hook and loop.

 

I am not trying to scare you off of pursuing paint correction - quite the opposite. I want you to be more prepared than I was so you see the best results for as little effort as possible. So you can focus on the technique rather than how tired your arms are from trying to remove residue. Ask me how I know.  

[Wgeffon]

Thanks everyone. I appreciate all the advice and encouragement.

[Focus_Red]

This thread was encouraging for me as well, thank you Wayne. I also purchased a PC and haven't used it other than to apply LPS. Looking forward to using it, even if I am a little afraid to touch my baby with it.

[PostalTwo]

It's one of the safest tools u can use . U would have to put some serious effort trying to damage your paint with that tool . It may not even be possible . I once watched a video of junkman using a Porter cable and meguiars most aggressive compound, leaning into the tool on his corvette from several minutes in one spot and did not damage the paint. U guys will be fine . Go have some fun

[Kraterer]

It's one of the safest tools u can use . U would have to put some serious effort trying to damage your paint with that tool . It may not even be possible . I once watched a video of junkman using a Porter cable and meguiars most aggressive compound, leaning into the tool on his corvette from several minutes in one spot and did not damage the paint. U guys will be fine . Go have some fun

 

Thanks for the words of wisdom! 

[Wgeffon]

It's one of the safest tools u can use . U would have to put some serious effort trying to damage your paint with that tool . It may not even be possible . I once watched a video of junkman using a Porter cable and meguiars most aggressive compound, leaning into the tool on his corvette from several minutes in one spot and did not damage the paint. U guys will be fine . Go have some fun

I just watched that video. Pretty convincing.

[Wgeffon]

*Tape off emblems and window trim or just stay away as much as possile?

 

*Do entire car with correcting polish then switch to finishing polish or do a small section with correcting then switch to finishing and repeat till car is done?

Edited November 2, 2016 by Wgeffon

[shane@detailedreflections]

*Tape off emblems and window trim or just stay away as much as possile?

 

*Do entire car with correcting polish then switch to finishing polish or do a small section with correcting then switch to finishing and repeat till car is done?

I use VRT for most trim instead of tape. Apply VRT before polishing/waxing and any product will wipe right off. I go around with VRT again when I'm done just to smooth out the look.

 

You can do the whole car with correcting polish. Then the whole car with finishing polish. Then glaze. And wipe off.

[falcaineer]

*Tape off emblems and window trim or just stay away as much as possile?

*Do entire car with correcting polish then switch to finishing polish or do a small section with correcting then switch to finishing and repeat till car is done?

Taping emblems may help with not getting the pads snagged on and cut by sharp edges. Otherwise, I didn't do anything with mine. Just stayed clear.

 

Use VRT on the trim first, after the strip wash, and any polish or sealant will wipe right off easily.

 

I've never used the PFP, but my gut tells me do the whole car with PCP first, then do the PFP. Saves from switching the pads back and forth.

 

Have fun. The PC is a great tool.

[falcaineer]

Guess Shane and I are on the same brain wave. He just hit "post" a little faster...I must be getting old.

[Wgeffon]

Awesome. Thanks guys.

[falcaineer]

You bet. I realize this is addicting, but being in IL, shouldn't you be watching the World Series?!

[Wgeffon]

It is on.

Not a big Cub's fan but I'd like to see them win it.

[PostalTwo]

I would do a "test spot" 2x2 and see how many passes it takes to get the paint perfect or to the desired level . Then do the whole car section by section . So say it takes 2 passes of pcp. I would then work around the car section by section making 2 passes each time . Then do the whole car with pfp. Alot of times it will take many hours to get perfect . So as an alternative you could say tackle the hood and front of the car 1 day ,then the next time do a door and fender . Imo it's better to work slow and achieve perfection than to touch the whole car and not get there.

[PHOKUS]

I would do a "test spot" 2x2 and see how many passes it takes to get the paint perfect or to the desired level . Then do the whole car section by section . So say it takes 2 passes of pcp. I would then work around the car section by section making 2 passes each time . Then do the whole car with pfp. Alot of times it will take many hours to get perfect . So as an alternative you could say tackle the hood and front of the car 1 day ,then the next time do a door and fender . Imo it's better to work slow and achieve perfection than to touch the whole car and not get there.

 

I think your approach has some merit, but different areas of the vehicle almost always require different levels of correction.

 

Before I even pull out my equipment and products, I assess the condition of the paint. I don't own a paint gauge (yet), so I visually inspect the entire car. Then I look for signs of repainted panels and ask the owner if the vehicle has ever been repaired.  Then I give a quote if this is a customer's vehicle.

 

I mark the worst areas with painter's tape, and take note of areas which need little or no correction. There's no sense in making four passes if it only needs one or two. Then I tape off a test section in an area needing heavy correction and start compound polishing with foam. This gives me an opportunity to see how the paint reacts to compounding and if I need to get a more aggressive pad.

 

I agree that working slower is more in line with the 'touch it right, touch it once' mentality. I also think a bit more preparation and thoughtfulness before you begin can save time in the long run.

 

Cheers!