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Recommended supplies for a new car


blickity
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When I moved 2 years ago, I had to leave all of my detailing liquids behind. I just bought a new Golf R (black) this weekend and want to make sure I'm up to date on the best kit to keep this car shining. I was looking at having it ceramic coated and a PPF applied, but it's just not in the budget. Supply-wise, I've still got my Cycle polisher, clay bars, foam gun, some good shampoo (can't remember the brand) and mf towels that might need replacing. Basically, I'm starting over and need to build my kit.

 

My new car looks great, was only washed by the dealer once and doesn't appear to have any noticeable swirls. It's garaged, but has been in some rain.

 

I'm sure a lot has changed in the last few years, so I'd love your recommendations for what I should get to make sure my new car has many, shiny years ahead of it.

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For maintenance you can’t be the Adams daily driver kit. It includes everything you need. 

 

When we do what we call “new car prep” it consists of wash, decon, clay, light polish (the paint can still use this very mild leveling for higher finish) and then top it with whatever last step product (LSP) you want to subscribe to. 

 

Once we know the goals, it’s easier to recommend product. But the daily driver kit is a great start. 

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I agree with Shane on the Daily Driver as a great place to start.  I would also suggest you grab some Brilliant Glaze to make the black paint pop if you choose not to go the Coating route.

 

IMO, you can't go wrong with a Ceramic Coating.  Maintenance will be simple once the coating is applied.  If you do apply the Adam's Ceramic Coating, then you'll want to use Ceramic Boost as your maintenance top coat.

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Coatings do reduce maintenance, but don’t make it maintenance free. They work very well and the Adam’s coating is pretty durable. There are various coatings out there, Adam’s makes it simple by offering one level of coating. Some of the other coatings offer different finishes, but can be harder to work with or only available to professional installers. 

 

The thing with a coating is that prep is literally everything. There is no shortcut to a good finish. Gloss is a result of the polishing and effort put in before the coating locks it in. The coating will enhance your finish. But the work still has to be done. 

 

A common complaint from people with coated cars is that it “stopped working.” By this they mean the hydrophobic action they had at first is no more. This is 98% of the time due to a dirty coating. Coatings will still need to be cleaned and decontaminated. They need to be clayed occasionally. And even the occasional strip wash. Then you reapply the top layer (of whatever product you use) and you’re good to go. 

 

So they do still require work, just less of it. We advocate clients with coated cars come in at least once a year for service. Some still come every six months for an abbreviated service and interior treatment. 

 

Take the time to educate yourself on the options in coatings, if you want to do it yourself and how you’ll maintain it. Feel free to ask questions. 

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This is really helpful!

 

Ok, for now, I think I'll stick with a non-ceramic protocol.

 

Would this work?

  1. Strip wash (is Dawn still good for this?)
  2. Remove any rail dust from paint (recommended product?)
  3. Regular wash
  4. Clay bar
  5. Guard & Gloss
  6. Brilliant Glaze

 

Is there any benefit to using the Paint Sealant instead of/in addition to the Guard & Gloss?

 

For maintenance - 

  1. Keep it clean with detail spray
  2. After washes, apply Guard & Gloss and Brilliant Glaze

This car doesn't need to be show car perfect, just above-average awesome.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Edited by blickity
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Your order of operations looks to be correct. 

Strictly from a brand loyalty standpoint, I wouldn't recommend using Dawn as your strip wash, but I believe others do use it with no ill effect.

It just so happens that Adam's is set to release a new product just for removing rail dust and other iron-based contaminants from  painted surfaces, aptly named Iron Remover.  In the mean time, you can use Wheel Cleaner diluted 1:1, or full strength if you're careful to remove it immediately after reaction and work out of the sun. 

Paint Sealant is a perfect next step once you have the initial prep work completed...steps1-4.  PS would not be in lieu of G&G, but rather a great step in addition to it for added protection and durability. Check out Layering of Products in the Library Forum.

Adam's will definitely keep your car looking above-average awesome. :thumbsup:

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59 minutes ago, blickity said:

This is really helpful!

 

Ok, for now, I think I'll stick with a non-ceramic protocol.

 

Would this work?

  1. Strip wash (is Dawn still good for this?)
  2. Remove any rail dust from paint (recommended product?)
  3. Regular wash
  4. Clay bar
  5. Guard & Gloss
  6. Brilliant Glaze

 

Is there any benefit to using the Paint Sealant instead of/in addition to the Guard & Gloss?

 

For maintenance - 

  1. Keep it clean with detail spray
  2. After washes, apply Guard & Gloss and Brilliant Glaze

This car doesn't need to be show car perfect, just above-average awesome.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

For strip wash, if you use dawn it can leave a residue interfering with the application of other product. It’s not worth the risk. Use strip wash or add a little bit of APC to your regular wash. For what it’s worth, we don’t even use strip wash regularly in the shop. 

 

To remove rail dust, you can use wheel cleaner or Adams new Iron Remover once its released. There’s another popular product out there. A quick google search will find it. All will work well. 

 

Personally I would still consider a finishing polish. That’s a matter of preference and our own standards. It’s certainly not required. 

 

Here’s where opinions vary. In my opinion Guard & Gloss is a maintenance product versus primary product. The only primary place we use it is on wheels for it’s ease of application. Otherwise it truly is great for between details. Again, some people believe in Guard & Gloss as a primary sealant. Your mileage may vary. 

 

We would do paint sealant, brilliant glaze and two thin layers of hand wax. Americana being the best all around. Buttery has a short lifespan and patriot is shorter than Americana with a deeper appearance. It’s more of a concourse product. 

 

And as a last point, brilliant glaze is a very short lived product...it’s lifespan is measured in weeks. As in just a week or two depending on weather. You can reapply on top, but putting wax over it helps slightly. 

 

Hope we have answered your questions!

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I agree completely with Shane.  If you're saying the paint is in good condition I would recommend:

 

  1. Strip Wash (Can be done with Dawn, I did with original blue dawn my first time around and my LPS has lasted all winter, but buy Strip Wash.  Worth noting that you can use a regular soap and by the time you get through a Clay/Decon/Polish, you'll be fine)
  2. Iron Decon.  Wheel Cleaner works.  Iron Remover will likely be better.  There's another very famous Iron remover that works amazing too.  
  3. Clay (Remove all bonded contaminates, fall out, etc.) use diluted Rinseless Wash as clay lube so you don't re-introduce wax to the surface.  
  4. Re-Wash, might as well use Strip Wash here too. 
  5. Polish.  A Finishing Polish will likely work great as long as you don't have any serious swirls and other flaws.  It will bring more gloss to your paint, especially on black, than any LSP can.  Adam's Finishing Polish and white foam pads is all you need, get a few pads and change them/clean them as you polish.
  6. IPA wipe-down or Coating Prep or Eraser, or some kind of product that's going to get rid of the polishing oils.  IPA is very common.  Coating Prep is worth buying for the lack of smell and lubricants though.  
  7. Apply Liquid paint sealant by machine with a gray pad.  Or by hand if you want. The strong base of LPS is very important for 6+ month protection. 
  8. Apply H2O G&G.  I would replace the Glaze/wax with H2O on a daily driver.  H2O is stronger and easier to apply than Waxes and it still leaves incredible shine and slickness.  It can be applied to all surfaces, plastic, glass, and chrome etc. and shines and protects it all.  Applied to your glass, the rain will fly off.  

That's all that's necessary for a daily driver. 

 

I highly recommend looking up the Garry Dean method of doing a Rinseless Wash and buying Adam's Rinseless Wash.  Definitely one of the best detailing tools there is.  Even in the winter, you can take your car to a quarter car wash, pressure wash off all of the big stuff, go home and put it in the garage and give it a RW and it will be clean as new.  Such an awesome product/process.  

 

For maintenance washes, once the paint and other surfaces get really dirty, then a good 2 bucket wash will be needed. Car Shampoo works great for that.  


Detail Spray does a good job of removing LIGHT dirt and whatever but you will not want to use it for anything more than dust, fingerprints, and light smudges/road dirt.  Waterless Wash/Diluted Rinseless is better at cleaning.  


Detail Spray is a must however for drying, touch ups, and the like.  I use it all the time after a Rinseless Wash when it's not time to apply H2O GG (1-3 months).  It can be used on your wheels, chrome, glass, interior, vinyl etc.  

 

There's many more points and advice I/we could give.  But hopefully that should get you started.   

 

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7 hours ago, blickity said:

This forum is kinda blowing my mind with all the helpful info. Thank you! I just ordered all of my supplies and am looking forward getting started!

 

"...ordered all of my supplies..." Famous last words! :lol: The addiction has only just begun.

 

So what was in your first (of many to come) order?

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27 minutes ago, blickity said:

Both of my cars got sone much needed love this weekend. Thanks again for the advice! Btw, Guard & Gloss is amazing! 

14BAA448-F372-4B62-84DB-2161729236B1.jpeg

 

They look great! And I see you topped it all off with not just HGG, but a nice cold one! :cheers:

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On 4/16/2018 at 6:02 AM, blickity said:

Both of my cars got sone much needed love this weekend. Thanks again for the advice! Btw, Guard & Gloss is amazing! 

14BAA448-F372-4B62-84DB-2161729236B1.jpeg

Nice. Good job! I'm curios, which products did you end up getting? I just picked up a used 2016 Hyundai Sonata in black and now I need to maintain it. I've never done any detailing before so I definitely need some guidance. I'm planning on doing the 2 bucket method with the foam gun, but not sure what to use after that. Thanks!

 

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PointMan,

 

I kinda went all-out to replace all of my supplies so I'd be ready for anything, but I only really needed a few things for now.

 

Here's what I did:

 

Wheel cleaner

Strip wash

H20 Guard & Gloss

VRT on the tires

Leather conditioner

 

I was honestly surprised by how well the H20 G&G worked. The application process is so easy, it's hard to believe.

 

Of course, as I was drying the car, I picked up a little piece of bark or something and put a fine scratch in the rear bumper, but only I will notice it. When the pollen season is completely over and I have a day to spend on the car, I'll strip it again, polish out the scratch, spray for iron, clay, use sealant, clean and condition the leather, clean and seal the glass...basically everything. It'll still be overkill, but isn't that we keep buying black cars?

 

So, all the advice I receive to just get the Daily Driver kit spot-on...but I just couldn't help myself.

Edited by blickity
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