How to tell that new paint is cured?

[1st Gen]

Hello,

I am new to Adams, but intend to use your graphene-infused ceramic finish on my ’68 Camaro.  It is currently completing a rotisserie-based full restoration, and has a brand new paint job (PPG base and clear) in Cordovan Maroon, along with new vinyl cover on the roof.  I expect to take possession in late December/early January.

I understand that this paint should finish out-gassing before I apply any finish, but I am not clear when that would be.  I have not been able to find anywhere on your website where this is discussed.  The car will be garaged, but will be covered with a ‘Platinum Shield’ breathable car cover from carcovers.com, due to sharing the space with our cat.

This is winter now, with temperature ranging from 50 during the day down into the mid-20’s worst case at night.  The garage is fully enclosed, but unheated.  We live 2 miles from the Puget Sound, and it is very humid here.  Most of you would call it rain.  I doubt this paint is going to be in a hurry to cure, but I will wait it out.  I just don’t have a good idea what ‘wait it out’ means.

 I would like to know if there is any test process I can follow to establish that the new paint is stable, fully cured, and ready for the ceramic finish to be applied?

[1st Gen]

Oh, sorry, asked and answered.  My bad.  It appears there is no test to tell that outgassing is complete, so I'll ask a slightly different question:  what happens if I apply the finish too soon?  Will there be bubbles or other forms of bad news?

[falcaineer]

Bottom line, ask the body shop how long you should wait. Most new paint jobs even if they are cured in that type of process will need weeks if not months. If you apply it too soon, yes it could adversely affect the curing.

[1st Gen]

So, here is what I hear from my restoration shop:  If I drive it this winter, while the paint is fresh, DO NOT USE pressure to rinse it off, just open hose.  But DO rinse it off and let it dry before you cover it with custom cover.  The paint and the inside of the cover need to stay abrasives-free to avoid scratches.  Further, they say that I will notice that at first, the water will just bead off (as if it had a protective coating) but eventually, the water will not, and that is a sign it is hardening and no longer out-gassing.  They suggest waiting at least 3 months, maybe more given the temperature and the cover. 

 

There is no question in my head about whether I will be driving it.  I will definitely be driving it, rain or shine, so I guess I cross my fingers and hope nothing occurs that can damage the paint while it is still curing, vulnerable, and unprotected. 

 

Bottom line is new paint seems to be a time of some slight risk, regarding when to apply any protective coating for the first time.   I’m sure for reasons of potential liability, none of the companies selling “protection” really address this topic, and the concern that people in my situation feel.  I suspect there are probably go/no go testing procedures available, but they are perhaps out of the reach of us common folk, so in the end, we just apply and cross our fingers. 

 

Potential Product: Adams might be able to come up with a simple “cover a small section for some period of time, and then test the cover material” test.  Something like a pregnancy test kit, with release of liability, of course.  Hah!

[Rich]

I use covers too, BUT to avoid scratches, I bought two queen size soft flannel/fleece sheets and sewed them together  short end to short end, and I lay that over my car to protect it from dust, etc while it's in the garage, and it's UNDER my regular cover when the car is stored for winter.  You may  need to use king size depending on the size of your car, but the queen size covers my Vette to past the mirrors to just past mid door.  I live in PA and have an unheated garage as well.  But I've used this method for at least 20 years and it hasn't failed me.  When it gets dusty,  into the washer and dryer then back over the car. 

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[mc2hill]

Hey @1st Gen, a little late on the reply, but first off congrats on restoring your Camaro!  Great advice from Rich on the storage tweaks (I have passed along this to many folks over the years), and I will chime in on the cleaning and shining.  

You could easily use Adams Waterless Wash or Hoseless Wash (aka rinseless wash) to clean the car for a few months (or always - I never put a hose on car built before the 2000's - too many places for water to hide).  Neither require a pressure washer or even a hose!  And if you are going to a show before you can put protection on give Brilliant Glaze a try - it will provide some 'pop' without any protection.  I always add this to older cars (from muscle cars to pre-war brass-era machines) when detailing for clients.

And if this will be garage kept and mostly used for show & fun cruising, I would suggest protecting it with Adam's American Wax, which will hold up fine to 6 months or more.   And put the Brilliant Glazed either under or over the Americana (or both!).    

Edited January 4 by mc2hill

[1st Gen]

On 1/4/2024 at 7:38 AM, mc2hill said:

Hey @1st Gen, a little late on the reply, but first off congrats on restoring your Camaro!  Great advice from Rich on the storage tweaks (I have passed along this to many folks over the years), and I will chime in on the cleaning and shining.  

You could easily use Adams Waterless Wash or Hoseless Wash (aka rinseless wash) to clean the car for a few months (or always - I never put a hose on car built before the 2000's - too many places for water to hide).  Neither require a pressure washer or even a hose!  And if you are going to a show before you can put protection on give Brilliant Glaze a try - it will provide some 'pop' without any protection.  I always add this to older cars (from muscle cars to pre-war brass-era machines) when detailing for clients.

And if this will be garage kept and mostly used for show & fun cruising, I would suggest protecting it with Adam's American Wax, which will hold up fine to 6 months or more.   And put the Brilliant Glazed either under or over the Americana (or both!).    

 

Thank you for your advice regarding caring for the finish while it is curing! 

 

I am curious to understand what is required to prepare the clear-coat for protection with the graphene-enhanced ceramic product, once the new paint has reached a point in time when it is fully cured, both at a chemical and evaporative state?  That is, do I need to remove a 'Brilliant Glaze' coating before applying the graphene/ceramic coating? 

 

If so, what do you suggest for both product and process that I use to  prepare the finish for the graphene/ceramic protective coating?

[mc2hill]

On 1/5/2024 at 3:16 PM, 1st Gen said:

 

 

I am curious to understand what is required to prepare the clear-coat for protection with the graphene-enhanced ceramic product, once the new paint has reached a point in time when it is fully cured, both at a chemical and evaporative state?  That is, do I need to remove a 'Brilliant Glaze' coating before applying the graphene/ceramic coating? 

 

If so, what do you suggest for both product and process that I use to  prepare the finish for the graphene/ceramic protective coating?

 

Any coating prep solution will remove the Brilliant Glaze, it does not last long - it is mostly for the extra shine.

[falcaineer]

On 1/5/2024 at 1:16 PM, 1st Gen said:

what do you suggest for both product and process that I use to  prepare the finish for the graphene/ceramic protective coating?

 

Here's an article that explains the entire process from prep to application.