Not a 110% satisfied Or am I...

[19stang88]

Today I attempted to correct my paint from swirls and scratches with the PC and SHR with the orange pad at 5 OPMS with 9-10 lbs of press or enough to bog down the PC. Most of the swirls came out except the deeper scratches. I ran my finger nail across the deeper scratches and my finger nail didn't stop or get caught in the scratch. I did 2 passes with the PC. Do you guys think that I should use the more invasive method ie yellow pad. I followed the same techniques as JUNKMAN did in his videos. Before I return my products, should i purchase a yellow pad or is there something i can do with the orange pad that can make it more effective.

Thanks, David.

[Team Adam's]

today, i took 4 hours to do 1/4 of my car. from what everybody has been saying patience patience patience! Well i did just that!....I was so impressed!! however, i didn't get it to perfect, i need the yellow pad for more shred power. But i am very satisfied. Thanks to everybody for the help and encouragement

 

Right on... and the more you use this stuff the better you'll get... I've been doing this for 13 years now and I still learn new things all the time so just stick with it!!

[Junkman2008]

So is the problem that the product was not worked long enough, or that the product was worked long enough but the process needed to be repeated? AJ's El Camino looked pretty damaged from the videos, but it appeared that a couple of passes did the trick, or am I confused.

 

I understand that some cars are worse than others so if you do the "slow cut method" on the first section to test your clear so to speak will this determine what needs to be done. When doing the slow cut method, you add a shot of detail spray and the SHR comes alive again, does this mean that you need to do one more pass or ??????

 

I just received all my product and will soon start on my Camaro, I see alot of swirls but not scratches, well to me it's alot. they seem really fine so I will try the least aggressive first, FMP.

 

The reason it takes so long is that you are using a orbital polisher, and you're using the safest one on the market. You could pick up a rotary and wipe the damage, your clear coat AND the paint out with one pass! That is not a viable option for the wise.

 

But the reason I am asking is my truck, 2006 2500 hd is in rough shape, no wax since new, it has swirls , some scratches and some scuffs, This will be my test vehicle, I figure if I can make this shine up then my Camaro will be a breeze. Is the reason it takes so long inexperience or less aggressive product. Thanks

 

The problem was that not enough passes were made to clean up the damage in question. If one pass fixes 80% of the damage, and the next pass fixes 10% more of the damage, you can easily see that the progression of repair is NOT going to be linear. Thus, the 3rd pass may only fix 2% of the damage and the 4th pass may only address 1%. You just have to keep repeating the process until YOU are satisfied with what you have achieved, realizing that some of the damage may be beyond your expertise.

 

My El Camino did not come out looking like that after a FEW passes. It took a lot more than a few. That thing was a mess. That's why I only did half the hood!

 

The reason it takes so much effort to repair the damage you see is because you are not only using a orbital polisher, but you are using the safest orbital polisher on the market. You could fixed the damage in one pass with an rotary polisher, but the damage, clear coat and paint might be gone after that pass too. Not a viable option for the wise!

[JerseyGator]

Good luck! Looking forward to pics...

[Guest Gone & Forgotten]

That first picture actually looks similar to impact/stress damage on that rear plastic panel. Like that area was bent out of shape and the paint cracked.

 

That's what I thought it was too... never buy a car on an overcast cold rainy day.

 

Then again, after 6 months of vette shopping.... enough was enough.

 

I think it's fixable with some wet sanding or whatever... but I'm good with broken computers, remodeling and a drop tuned guitar:rockon: - refurb'ing paint on a corvette....eh... may have to try the wife's blazer first.

 

Wife's outta town this weekend so,

Planning to hit Nic's garage up this weekend and PC my car - if I can, I'll get the halogen out (if he has one) and shoot some pics/vid or whatever. My photos look like amateur night at the Apollo (without the tree stump to rub). My bad...

 

(hint to web master, we need an emoticon of a smiley rubbing a tree stump)

[Guest Gone & Forgotten]

:help::help::help::help:

 

Don't think anything but a respray can fix this crap.

 

Photo actually shows up worse than it looks in person.

 

 

hood rash... some '#*)(#@!' figured they'd sit on it for awhile

 

all the above happened before I bought it.

[Guest Gone & Forgotten]

No, im sure. I don't need to be redirected. after post 12 and the titan from hell, im pretty sure anything is possible.[/quote

:pc::pc:

 

 

 

lol

 

thx for the laugh bro

 

[Junkman2008]

Good idea, I'll do more passes with the orange pad before I move to the yellow destroyer. During the process of correcting my paint with the orange pad, i noticed it was very clogged up. Would a clogged pad retain its cutting abilities oppose to a clean one? Also what do you mean about more aggressive measures? wet sanding?

 

When you clog up a pad, it is worthless. The tiny holes in the pad are what causes the pad to cut. Clogging them up = no cut whatsoever. When the pad get's clogged, that is when you implement my Slow Cut Technique for a few passes so that you can flush the pad out without wasting all that product. You can also start spritzing the pad in order to flush it out but never keep adding polish to a saturated pad. That will cause them to wear out much faster.

 

You need to always watch your pads while working with them and be very cognizant of the appearance that the hex-shapes are in. If they start flattening down and loosing their definition then you have too much product on the pad or you are using too much product (I can do my rusty El Camino quite a few times with 1 bottle of SHR). This is when you need to stop using product and start spritzing the pad with detail spray in order to flush out the pad.

 

More is not better when working with polishes. As a matter of fact, it does less work when you use too much product than it does when you use the correct amount.

[19stang88]

I would actually encourage more passes with the orange pad before going to the yellow. The yellow pads beats up the paint to the point where multiple passes of FMP are necessary to clean up that orange pad damage. It's kind of 6 of one, half a dozen of the other. You pay the piper eventually and going from the orange to the white is a lot easier in the long run.

 

Remember, some damage will not come out unless you resort to more aggressive measures, and I don't mean the yellow pad.

 

Good idea, I'll do more passes with the orange pad before I move to the yellow destroyer. During the process of correcting my paint with the orange pad, i noticed it was very clogged up. Would a clogged pad retain its cutting abilities oppose to a clean one? Also what do you mean about more aggressive measures? wet sanding?

[Team Adam's]

That first picture actually looks similar to impact/stress damage on that rear plastic panel. Like that area was bent out of shape and the paint cracked.

[Dr Jkel]

Bump

[Dr Jkel]

So is the problem that the product was not worked long enough, or that the product was worked long enough but the process needed to be repeated? AJ's El Camino looked pretty damaged from the videos, but it appeared that a couple of passes did the trick, or am I confused.

 

I understand that some cars are worse than others so if you do the "slow cut method" on the first section to test your clear so to speak will this determine what needs to be done. When doing the slow cut method, you add a shot of detail spray and the SHR comes alive again, does this mean that you need to do one more pass or ??????

 

I just received all my product and will soon start on my Camaro, I see alot of swirls but not scratches, well to me it's alot. they seem really fine so I will try the least aggressive first, FMP.

 

But the reason I am asking is my truck, 2006 2500 hd is in rough shape, no wax since new, it has swirls , some scratches and some scuffs, This will be my test vehicle, I figure if I can make this shine up then my Camaro will be a breeze. Is the reason it takes so long inexperience or less aggressive product. Thanks

[Ben]

If at first you don't succeed try, try, again. I am new to Adam's and did a 15 year old GMC Truck with the orange pad then the white. It look's absolutely amazing.

[19stang88]

JerseyGator...... That is beautiful!

[19stang88]

No, im sure. I don't need to be redirected. after post 12 and the titan from hell, im pretty sure anything is possible.[/quote

:pc::pc:

 

 

Thanks man, I can do it:lol:

 

I just talked to my dads friend... he works at a body shop.

That clear coat is nice and durable, he uses a clear just like that in most cases. It's designed to be hard like that to prevent scratches going to the paint. So it WILL take a little effort of clean it up if it is deep.

 

Im glad to hear BASF's clear is durable. Its just what i need for the girlfriend:lolsmack:

[Junkman2008]

For you AJ... A ride awaits you on Jun 27th.

 

I better warn you in advance, I drive nice cars like an old lady! Slow and with one hand on the horn at all time just in case somebody even thinks about getting close to me!

[mobilman]

I just talked to my dads friend... he works at a body shop.

That clear coat is nice and durable, he uses a clear just like that in most cases. It's designed to be hard like that to prevent scratches going to the paint. So it WILL take a little effort of clean it up if it is deep.

[JerseyGator]

I do, especially the Shelby.

 

For you AJ... A ride awaits you on Jun 27th.

 

[DIAZ 87]

THATS WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT!!!:banana::banana:

[Team Adam's]

perfect. That will now be added to the instructional DVD as the last chapter.

[whiterp199]

[DIAZ 87]

No, im sure. I don't need to be redirected. after post 12 and the titan from hell, im pretty sure anything is possible.[/quote

:pc::pc:

 

[Team Adam's]

What do u exactly mean by one pass? This is what i did. I ran the Orange pad twice on a 2x2 section and the white pad once. Should have I ran the white pad twice as well. Is the combination of SHR and FMP equal as one pass? I Would really appreciate all the help from you guys!

 

A pass would qualify as one treatment of a product and pad...

 

So its sounds to me that you did one pass with the SHR and orange pad combo, followed by one pass of the white pad and FMP combo. One pass of each product basically.

 

Old paint or new that clear is gonna be hard as rocks... and I'll promise you fresh out of the booth paint is rarely any better than paint thats been roaming the street for years. Bodyshops can paint cars, but they rarely know how to properly prep. When my truck was repainted I literally had to do a mini instructional clinic on how to clean and polish it with the guys who did it b/c the first 2 times it came back to me in horrible shape. This was no slouch shop either... these guys do all the body work for the local porsche, lambo, ferrari, and maserati dealers!!

 

Try doing a few passes with the orange pad + SHR, follow up with a single pass of the white pad and FMP, remove the polish and inspect. Repeat as necessary... each subsequent pass should get a little better until you reach your goal.

 

Report back what you find and we can go from there... also whenever asking for advice here on the forum its a HUGE help to have pictures to reference. If you can capture the area you've worked on before, during, and after to show us it can assist in giving better advice and tips to get you where you want to go.

 

Don't panic just yet... if you just picked this stuff up for the first time you have to realize there is a learning curve. While watching videos and reading will get you a long ways it in no way makes you perfect your first time out... paint correction is a lot of "learn from your mistakes"... you now know not to assume that the very minimum will net the maximum results in all cases...

[19stang88]

So are you still unsure about what it will take to fix it? If so, let me know and I'll redirect you back to post #12.

No, im sure. I don't need to be redirected. after post 12 and the titan from hell, im pretty sure anything is possible.

[Junkman2008]

Thats the thing, the paint is not even six months old. It was just re-painted in November.

 

So are you still unsure about what it will take to fix it? If so, let me know and I'll redirect you back to post #12.

[19stang88]

I can say if it is not working it is not the product.

This is the best I have used, and with good technique, it works very well. If you are unhappy, maybe the paint was trashed farther than polish will do. That is not the products fault.

 

Thats the thing, the paint is not even six months old. It was just re-painted in November.