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Second Round - Paint Correction / Seal and...


ralphsmithiii

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Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to go for round 2 in doing a full paint correction of my 2007 LeMans Blue Z06. I've got an entire week (or month) if needed to get it done and do it 100% correct this time.

 

My paint is in pretty good condition considering its over 5 years old. It does have some now minor/medium swirl marks as well as still some spotty/pitted clear coat due to some hard water etchings. I haven't decided if I'm going to have it wet sanded or try and level the clear with my Flex and an abrasive polish and see if that works.

 

I have a full arsenal of Adam's products to work with. If you name it, I probably own it when it comes to paint correction, interior and exterior detail :D

 

However, what I don't own is any of the products beyond the machine super sealant, meaning the brilliant glaze, buttery and Americana wax products. My car still looks glossy from doing my first correction 3 or so months ago but it never was corrected 100% to my satisfaction due to time. If I wanted to do a second go around, what would be the best route to take.

 

Do I need to strip off the old sealant or I'm assuming after I wash and re-clay it, hit it with either SSR, SHR, or FMP that'll take the sealant off. Would this affect the pads if there's sealant already applied as in "clogging the pads with sealant".

 

Then, should I pick up some brilliant glaze (to make fill in some of the imperfections, as well as add more shine) and/or either some buttery or Americana to make it last?

 

If I'm going to dedicate a few days on getting this right, I want to make sure I'm taking the correct steps and using ALL of the right products.

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Don't forget to add bg in between sealant and wax. If you got the funds go for Americana it lasts longer and holds up better. I use buttery in between for maintenance. Don't forget to let the sealant cure overnight if you're using machine sealant, before you apply brilliant glaze. Pics!

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Hey everyone, I'm getting ready to go for round 2 in doing a full paint correction of my 2007 LeMans Blue Z06. I've got an entire week (or month) if needed to get it done and do it 100% correct this time.

 

My paint is in pretty good condition considering its over 5 years old. It does have some now minor/medium swirl marks as well as still some spotty/pitted clear coat due to some hard water etchings. I haven't decided if I'm going to have it wet sanded or try and level the clear with my Flex and an abrasive polish and see if that works.

 

I have a full arsenal of Adam's products to work with. If you name it, I probably own it when it comes to paint correction, interior and exterior detail :D

 

However, what I don't own is any of the products beyond the machine super sealant, meaning the brilliant glaze, buttery and Americana wax products. My car still looks glossy from doing my first correction 3 or so months ago but it never was corrected 100% to my satisfaction due to time. If I wanted to do a second go around, what would be the best route to take.

 

Do I need to strip off the old sealant or I'm assuming after I wash and re-clay it, hit it with either SSR, SHR, or FMP that'll take the sealant off. Would this affect the pads if there's sealant already applied as in "clogging the pads with sealant". Do the strip wash/clay/IPA wipedown that the others mentioned, and you will have no sealant left. Even if there was any remaining sealant, very doubtful, it would not clog your pads, don't worry about that.

 

Then, should I pick up some brilliant glaze (to make fill in some of the imperfections, as well as add more shine) and/or either some buttery or Americana to make it last? Uhmmm. Personal preference with the wax on the MSS, but I would say yes on the BG. You have a good LSP in the MSS, but the BG will add a little more shine, and like you said...fill in minor imperfections.

 

If I'm going to dedicate a few days on getting this right, I want to make sure I'm taking the correct steps and using ALL of the right products. Not sure about Corvette clear, but you probably did a better job than you think last time, and may only need FMP on a white pad to get the results your looking for. Do your 2*2 or 1*1 test panel first to see what you need.

 

Here what I do.

Foam gun (3 oz Car Shampoo, 3-6 oz APC)

2 bucket stripe wash to take off old wax (Add 3oz APC to wash bucket)

I use Iron X here, but that's a different site..can't post

Clay

IPA wipe down

Re-Wash, and 1:1 APC all trim to ensure tape adheres....

Tape off car

Polish

IPA wipe down

Sealant

wax

Hope this helps don't think I missed anything.

Todd

 

 

 

 

Don't forget to add bg in between sealant and wax. If you got the funds go for Americana it lasts longer and holds up better. I use buttery in between for maintenance. Don't forget to let the sealant cure overnight if you're using machine sealant, before you apply brilliant glaze. Pics!

 

 

 

What they said.......My differences are in red, but they are PURELY preference. ;) and I added some info if you are unclear what Todd meant. Todd take no offense to the edit...just thought I'd add a few things.

 

D

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Thanks for all of the replies. Few questions. What entails a IPA wipe down exactly? Am I mixing alcohol with water 1:1 in a sprayer bottle and hitting the entire car with a MF towel?

 

Also with taping, I picked up some painters tape (the blue kind) from Home Depot. When I use it and tape off a section, whenever I run the polisher over the tape it ends up leaving "taped" lines on the clear when I remove the tape. Is that considered normal? It's easy to take off with a quick run of the polisher over the lines but I swore in the Adams video's when he removes the tape there aren't any lines. Maybe I shouldn't run over the tape but close to it?

 

Again, thanks for the great advice!

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Ok, found my answer on the IPA wipe down. This detailing pro's suggestion was:

 

"If you’re using it after polishing or inspecting, you may want to use it full strength. If you’re just doing a wipedown and want to go straight to a wax or sealant application, then you may want to use it 50/50 to reduce the chances of streaking.?

 

Also he suggested to mix it, if diluting with distilled water. Is that correct?

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Ok, found my answer on the IPA wipe down. This detailing pro's suggestion was:

 

"If you’re using it after polishing or inspecting, you may want to use it full strength. If you’re just doing a wipedown and want to go straight to a wax or sealant application, then you may want to use it 50/50 to reduce the chances of streaking.?

 

Also he suggested to mix it, if diluting with distilled water. Is that correct?

 

You can use 70/30 straight out of the bottle, but I've been cutting that in half lately. Why not, your going to get the same affect, and double the product, and like you said it doesn't streak as much. Distilled..recommended by the guys, I use the filtered from my fridge:xfingers:

 

Don't use edge lock painters tape...some have had issues with that. You will always have polish lines after you pull your your tape if you make no attempt to avoid the tape when polishing. Think about it, all your polish on your pad is catching the edge of the tape and building up with every rotation. You can easily wipe that off with your post polish IPA wipe down.

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You can use 70/30 straight out of the bottle, but I've been cutting that in half lately. Why not, your going to get the same affect, and double the product, and like you said it doesn't streak as much. Distilled..recommended by the guys, I use the filtered from my fridge:xfingers:

 

Don't use edge lock painters tape...some have had issues with that. You will always have polish lines after you pull your your tape if you make no attempt to avoid the tape when polishing. Think about it, all your polish on your pad is catching the edge of the tape and building up with every rotation. You can easily wipe that off with your post polish IPA wipe down.

 

 

Right on and it makes sense with the tape, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.

 

I ended up buying a gallon of distilled water and the 91% IPA so I'll end up cutting it down some for my first go around.

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Well just placed another large order for my second round of Adams products. Picked up a few gallon refills, the bogo on the machine/wax pads, the turbo stick though I have the wheel woolies, some green wheel cleaner, brilliant glaze, buttery wax (will try the Americana later) and the Adams Metro Vac mini blower. Also threw in some of their tape to replace my blue 3M tape and the yellow hand applicator to apply the buttery.

 

Because I'm in Florida I hope to see this shipment sometime early next week and if the weather is anything like it is now, it'll be an awesome time to really get a solid paint correction/detail in.

 

Thanks for all of the suggestions and I'll be posting some more before and after pics including using the brilliant glaze and buttery after I correct some more of the paint.

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Well just placed another large order for my second round of Adams products. Picked up a few gallon refills, the bogo on the machine/wax pads, the turbo stick though I have the wheel woolies, some green wheel cleaner, brilliant glaze, buttery wax (will try the Americana later) and the Adams Metro Vac mini blower. Also threw in some of their tape to replace my blue 3M tape and the yellow hand applicator to apply the buttery.

 

Because I'm in Florida I hope to see this shipment sometime early next week and if the weather is anything like it is now, it'll be an awesome time to really get a solid paint correction/detail in.

 

Thanks for all of the suggestions and I'll be posting some more before and after pics including using the brilliant glaze and buttery after I correct some more of the paint.

 

Nice haul man...don't forget to throw up some pics.

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Finally finished the exterior. Turned out pretty well. Still not 100% but it's getting closer each time.

 

This was after:

strip-wash

clay

polish (flex)

machine sealant (flex)

brilliant glaze (flex)

buttery wax (hand)

 

Tires may need to be knocked down a hair. I used svrt and a block to dress them. They don't look super shiny but I'm curious to see how they'll turn out if I hit the tires with a rag. Also, I apparently need to pick up some polish for my exhaust tips. They were once nice and shiny but need some loving :D

 

I also hit my windows all the way around with the brilliant glaze and they came out awesome.

 

 

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Edited by ralphsmithiii
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