CRQuarto

The Super Machine Wax has more of a sealant property to it than the Buttery Wax does, which in turn equals better protection. The shine is also better, though the Buttery Wax is still awesome in its own. Buttery Wax is intended for hand use primarily, as it is easy on easy off. Super Machine Wax is able to be extremely robust, because it is intended for machine application and therefore ease of application and removal is dependent on use of a machine buffer. I tried applying the Machine Wax by hand once, just to see how it would feel, and man was it like spreading gorilla glue around, the stuff is THICK! Removal by hand is also hard, and further proves that the stuff is durable, and really meant for machine use.

Adam, if I win the lotto, I'll finance the operation to make them for you here! As for the apron, that price is not bad at all. I'd be more than willing to pay that. Heck, I would even buy the car cover, haha!

Bump for Jason or Adam

Now THAT is funny! Wait, did anyone notice Adam is holding a whip!?

I've always wanted to learn how to glass, but have never had the time Keep us updated on this!

Best of luck to you Page, I hope everything works out great for you! I will be keeping in touch with you of course, and let me know if you need anything, and if I can be of service I will do my best!

As was stated above, Metal Polish #1 & 2 will bring your wheels back to a brilliant shine. The pitting is dependent on how deep and bad it is, if it is extremely mild and shallow, it may be reduced on a small scale by the polish, but it is hard to tell how much, or if at all. Best of luck, and please post some before/after pictures, as well as your thoughts on how well the polishes worked, ect.

California Jelly Blade + WW + Detail Spray = Easy, quick, and flawless!

This is great advice, I would recommend you use the Super Machine Wax in conjunction with Brilliant Spray Glaze to properly seal the paint, and give it the maximum protection you can. Also, keep in mind that while clay baring the paint is great as it will leave you with an immaculate finish in terms of cleanliness, polishing the paint is a big factor in adhesion of crud. Dirt, fallout, tree sap, ect, all will adhere to swirled paint better because of the fact that it gives it more purchase to the surface. A flawless finish will be super slick once hit with a couple coats of Machine Wax and BSG, making dust stick less, dirt and crud come off easier when washing, bird poo/fallout/tree sap removal, ect ect.

Head down there if you live 4 blocks from the warehouse! You won't regret it

Quite a while even with very hard water, which I have. I need to replace the cartridges finally, and have had them a little over a year with washing once a week with it, and just detail spray the rest of the week.

Motorcraft 5/50 It was the only oil until very recently that met Ford's requirements for the GT500 Now Roush has one, so I am going to test that out next change.

Yeah, sometimes it pisses me off so much I am half tempted to rip them off of the car I wish I could afford to get them painted on, but to get it done to the level I want is around $6k. Revive polish works somewhat, and so does the clear polish, but I am scared to put more pressure, or apply it longer to the same spot for fear of ruining them....sigh...

Polish out the stupid scratches in my stripes The vinyl that Ford uses is SO freakin delicate, that even with the two bucket method, lots of soap, and a perfectly clean wash mitt on a lightly dusty car, it SCRATCHES!!!! :mad:

Jason, any idea on how much polishing is needed on black vinyl? I'm having a tough time

Moved

Actually...I was going to suggest florescent bulbs for that very reason, hehe...get them and just get rid of the scratches You ARE on a detailing forum!

Agreed, you get a well rounded kit that is easy to build off of.

I still have all of it, and was wondering the same thing the other day...hehe...what the heck do I do with all this stuff??? I am keeping the cheepo MF towels, as they work great for engine bay stuff, exhaust tips, ect, anything that tears them up. They never touch my paint.

I better see pictures the moment they go on!

So, get these on yet Jason, or are you slackin?

Perfectly safe, use one with a low PSI setting (low enough you can put your hand in front of the nozzle), do NOT sure a "stream" setting (thin, pencil like stream), but more of a blasting nozzle. Keep about two feet from your paint as a precaution, and if you have vinyl of any kind stay away from the edges as it can cause lifting. I use a Husky brand one, and it works great. I have vinyl stripes on my car, and have not had an issue with them, so I believe it is all in being careful and using common sense. I use the larger one of these, but the smaller one would be safer: http://huskypowerwasher.com/new_models.php

Beautiful!

Nice!!!

Air or very low heat dry in the dryer, throw in a couple old white T-Shirts (ensures little to no lint coming off of them) in with the pads to help not only with the actual drying, but it keeps the pads from being beaten up by the dryer and keeps it quiet, plus if just the pads are inside the dryer sometimes the pads will open the dyer door haha!