mc2hill

I use Rinseless Wash with 'work' MF towels and a few brushes. Modern cars are mostly plastic cladding, and so they clean fairly easily. I will hit my truck with APC sometimes, then rinse with a stream of water, no pressure. Then I make everything look good with VRT 'milk' - VRT and distilled water - start with about 70% VRT to 30% water, and adjust for your tastes.

Nice work Ray! I have a few like this, mostly just to get the experience. I washed one SUV that was similar to this, and, like you had to change the rinse water half way thru, as it had turned green from the paint coming off! I did a older Mercedes SL that I stepped down to a cleaner wax product on the hood, because the paint was so thin.

Welcome Ulysses!

Welcome Daniel!

This sounds like a job for a coating. The plus with the coatings are they are not affected by harsh chemicals, to you could wash with diluted APC to remove the stains as often as you like and not affect the protection. The "wipe on/let cure" coating will protect better then the spray or wax, but will require more attention & time when applying.

Very cool 'spaceman' Chris!

Hey @thatryan, welcome back! I think you can remove the rubs on the paint with clay and Revive. To me they look like just paint transfer, and not scratches in clear coat. The wheel may be a DIY job, but I am not familiar with fixing them.

As the others have said YES! I rarely do full 2 bucket washes anymore, since a Rinseless wash is faster, I don't use mine for detailing too much. But I keep it handy to blow off the driveway, and used it with 2 MetroVac hoses this past weekend to dry the dog after a bath.

I clean mine, then store them in a small marked ziploc (NOT sealed).

Any 'wax' product will be short lived. Paint Sealant will last a little longer, and any of the spray coatings should last even longer.

I am more 'old school' than Juan, and will recommend Paint Sealant as a long lasting (up to 6 months), easy to apply, last step product. I top it with H2O Guard & Gloss every few months, and it looks great.

Welcome Stingray!

All of the above! As the others have said, Waterless Wash (RTU or mixed from Rinseless Wash works good). The diluted Car Shampoo in a spray bottle would work, and using a foaming sprayer would allow for more cling. These are both options if you want to leave the existing LSP (wax or sealant). If the bugs are really bad, the car is coated, or you will be reapplying the LSP give APC a try. Just do not let it dry on the surface. I have cleaned off very bad love bugs with Rinseless/Waterless wash before. I soaked thin MF towels in the wash solution, and placed them over the 'buggy' areas for 5-10 minutes (time to clean a wheel or 2). Sometimes I needed a 2nd application, but the bugs were softened up enough to wipe them off.

Welcome Greg!

I run mine thru a Rinse cycle before use, just in case something got on them.

Welcome Keith! I think Juan has you sorted.

I usually just put a few oz of APC or a microfiber cleaner in the bucket and let is soak. But if you have bad stains then pre-treat them too. The stains don't affect how the towels work, but don't look nice on the white towels.

I have a sub $150 version that gives me "piece of mind" when doing paint correction. It is also a nice tool to have when car shopping - you get some odd looks when you ask when specific panel has been repainted!

I recommend 'cleaning' the washer before putting in your expensive towels, and cleaning it again when you are done to keep all the grime out of the regular wash. Before you start: Use the washers 'clean' setting, if it has one. If not pick up some Tide Washing Machine Cleaner, and use it according to the directions. As other have said, pre-soak the towels to help remove product from them. It is up to you how you break them down, but I do 'wash' towels (wash, dry, glass, mitts), 'polish+wax' towels, work towels, black towels (some will run, some will not), and finally my terry cloth work towels. Always two rinses. To leave the machine ready for other laundry run the Tide Washing Machine Cleaner thru it according to the directions. I would be careful with the commercial machines. You don't know what has been thru them that could affect your towels, and the hot settings could damage your towels. This my addition to the 'How to wash the microfiber towels?' thread: I attended a class at Mobile Tech Expo on Friday presented by The Rag Company titled 'Microfiber 101'. A whole hour on microfiber, and it was very interesting! They do recommend pre-soaking, if you have time, and an APC will work, but as Dan said, MFBR will work fine too. They also recommended soaking a coating (or H20 G&G) towel ASAP to remove as much residue as possible. It is up to you if you want to use the coating removal/leveling towel again on paint, or demote it. They recommended adding a few ounces of distilled white vinegar to the bleach tray, but NOT to the wash. If added with the soap it will reduce the cleaning level of the soap. It was also recommended to skip the Hot setting, as MF can melt at 140F, and some hot water heaters may be set to that, or higher. I use the Hot setting for my white polishing towels without issue, but your results may differ. And just a few things that 'everybody already knows' about microfiber: Never use bleach or fabric softener Never use anything above Low heat on the dryer Never use dryer sheets when drying NEVER wash cotton towels with MF towels

Do you have access to a paint thickness gauge? Very low readings will help you decide if it is clear coat failure.

First off 'Welcome Back' Tim! Tim is fantastic artist and has done some great Adam's pieces. My guess is some markets (mostly California) request/require the lower VOC chemicals used in the 'Eco' versions. Especially now that Adam's is 'going home' and opening a store in SoCal again.

Removing the coating at the ends of it life with Finishing Polish and a white pad should be sufficient. Revive or Brilliant Glaze are not aggressive enough to do this work. Yes, mixing IPA with distilled water is a substitute for Surface Prep, but it does not any lubricants.

There are a few forums that allow you to discuss any product that you want, but most are owned by detailing supply companies (like this one), so there may be some restrictions. PM me for details. And you may want to look at the International Detailing Association site - they have several different ways learn with webinars, classes, newsletters, etc.

@greencar I wonder if the paint is 'dry'? Take a look at this write-up on Hemmings for look a method using a non-Adam's product to 'moisturize' the paint. It also has links to an article by an industry expert on this technique.

Clay bar alternatives (mitts, sponges, etc.) are usually more aggressive than clay, and could mar the paint requiring correction. The polishing step could remove the coating.