mc2hill

Only clay if it is needed. Do the 'baggie' test - on a clean spot put a plastic bag over you hand and feel the paint. If it feels bumpy, then it should be clayed, otherwise move on the sealant. And if you don't have clay, apply the sealant anyway, and get some clay in the next 6 months before if needs to have sealant applied again.

I was lucky enough to meet Adam when I worked the booth at Daytona Turkey Trot - A very cool and knowledgeable guy. Also have spoken to him on the phone a few times for products and detailing information.

Excellent work Chris!!

She is looking proper now Tim! Try some clay under those door handles. I have luck with that in the past on white car (I guess 'paint' transfer from the lady that drove the car).

Nice truck Tim! It is always fun to get a new vehicle of you own to do a full detail too. That white floor paint around the seat mounts would be bug the crap out of me! I would be tempted to put down some Plasti-dip where the carpet holes are.

For us - a little landscaping, and a few cars on the books (including a 67 Shelby GT 350 clone!). Our big thing is our son's wedding next Sunday (01/26). It is at an outdoor venue, and looks like it will in the 70's, with a light breeze...whew!

I rarely use it as a hand polish, but it is a great paint cleanser, and for removing any rubber marks on the paint from a clay mitt.

That looks great Jack!

Fantastic write up Guz!

There are a few books available on this as well, if would be helpful. PM me for specifics if you are interested.

I see the same thing with some other forums. Facebook is fine, but it's format does not allow for the education that the forums excels at.

Welcome cortez! Those wheels are probably not real chrome, but clearcoated. Try rubbing them with some polish to see - if the applicator turns black they are 'real chrome'. If they are not 'real chrome' you can treat them like paint - a sealant or coatings will last the longest on the wheels.

The big thing now is 'toppers' for coatings. Not sure they are needed, or just a way to get more $ from the vendors. As Rich said, they still need washing to maintain their full effectiveness.

@HeavenOnWheels I would recommend looking at Rinseless Washing. If the cars have a good coating of wax (or sealant or a coating) you can wash & dry them in 30 minutes or less. On the DI water and the pressure washer, I am wondering if the DI system is reducing the amount of water needed by the pressure washer.

@HeavenOnWheels How long does it take to wash and dry with the DI water? Have you looked into Rinseless Wash (panel by panel) as an alternative?

Nice write up Guz!

You could also look at the Dr. Colorchip and the Lanka systems. They provide a paint sample based on your color code.

I just added a photo in the Official Beading Photo thread.

A shot after a shower while we were watching the 'Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker'. I don't remember when the Paint Sealant was applied, but the H2O Guard & Gloss (old formula) was applied a month ago.

Hi BG. The PS will last up to 6 months, and can be maintained with HGG once a month or so. Most apply in the PS in the spring and fall. Not the protection of a coating, but easier & faster to apply.

Welcome Becky and Lance!

Welcome Sean! I am looking forward to more pics. I had a 79 Formula that I ordered - 4 speed, two tone silver, no T-Top. I loved the looks of the car (I had VSE lowering stuff to get rid of the 'body in the trunk' look), but it ran like garbage.

I have found it works well applying to no more than 2 panels before removing. You may have problems getting it off if you do the whole car. A monthly (or up to 2 months) should be good for protection. I only use it on cars that are stored and only driven on special occasions, so I let those go 6 months or more between waxing. Oh, and I highly recommend applying Brilliant Glaze on the paint, then topping with Americana for a face melting shine!

Juan, send me a PM to help remember to look for mine. I have never used it.

Welcome Andy! And some pics of your vehicles please.